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optronix

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Interesting. Im going to look into it. Though I dont plan on tracking the car, I enjoy spirited driving and it gets HOT in Vegas. The cooling issues seem to be a common theme, so I want to stem it before I have issues with it.
How do they seem to be a common theme?

They're not even common amongst people who frequent the track. And I've literally never heard of an overheating issue from non-track usage.
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How do they seem to be a common theme?

They're not even common amongst people who frequent the track. And I've literally never heard of an overheating issue from non-track usage.
Thats interesting, because I've seen multiple posts about concerns with heat, and things getting too hot. Albeit, ive only had my car, and subsequently been around a couple of months. If that isnt the case, then thats great to hear.
 

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Yeah, if you aren't tracking the car, you won't have heat issues. You literally need to mat the gas for like 25 minutes straight. You just can't do that on any public roads. Heck, I've never seen my coolant temp even go to 5 bars at the track, although I only track when ambient temps are 70's or below. Not an expert driver, but advanced/intermediate at least. Just brake pads and brake fluid, the car holds up great otherwise.
 

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Yeah, if you aren't tracking the car, you won't have heat issues. You literally need to mat the gas for like 25 minutes straight. You just can't do that on any public roads. Heck, I've never seen my coolant temp even go to 5 bars at the track, although I only track when ambient temps are 70's or below. Not an expert driver, but advanced/intermediate at least. Just brake pads and brake fluid, the car holds up great otherwise.
That might be the difference. Some are tracking into the 90's, and on the previous page there's a discussion about oil and coolant temps while tracking.
 

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Victorofhavoc

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Thats interesting, because I've seen multiple posts about concerns with heat, and things getting too hot. Albeit, ive only had my car, and subsequently been around a couple of months. If that isnt the case, then thats great to hear.
Are they "concerned with heat" or actually overheating?

Optimal engine temps have changed a lot... Today manufacturers intentionally keep coolant temp higher than in years past for better burn efficiency and lower emissions. Oil has also come a long way and it's not uncommon for good synth oil to easily tolerate 295F or more. IAT is the only thing of some concern because of the intake routing over the turbo and all the charge pipes straddling the engine block, but that's also why the hood louvre is there (to vent hot air and get air flowing through the cooling stack).

This car has no oil temp sensor, coolant temp sensor, or coolant level sensor. Strangely it has a brake temp sensor somewhere that will throw a transient code at you. It will never pull timing from oil temp. It will throw a code and light if coolant is too high temp, but the only thing that really cuts power and timing is IAT. I have felt it pull a little timing on a very hot day after a few laps, but that's also on a proper tire, race pads, and pushing the car pretty hard while lightly tuned. I believe a turbo blanket and some gold foil will solve this... Or just backing off a bit for a lap.

I've handed it over to half a dozen students (I coach) and a couple more advanced drivers right after I've done 30 mins and stopped to refuel. No issues even going out 10 mins after a 30 min session.

The only legitimate thing I've seen overheat is the rear brakes. On the track, you must do the pedal dance or you'll get 4 sessions out of the rear brakes.

Other than that, it has been a decently solid performer.

I wouldn't be concerned on the street. I would be concerned about too much cooling if you live in a place that gets cold. In one of my other cars I had to put cardboard over the oil cooler, block off the hood louvres, and drive for at least 15 mins in winter to get the oil to 190F and coolant over 200F. Because most of my drives are short, that meant I was changing oil every couple months to keep water content down. Oil thermostat opened at 186 and on the hwy in 32F weather you'd see it hit that temp then drop to 170s and bounce up and down πŸ˜‚.


Tune it for high torque and start touching other things, and then all bets are off. You're not in Honda engineering territory then, you're in your own experimentation. I've noticed many people modify first and then fix stuff vs hitting a weak link and then modifying to fix that weakness. There's nothing wrong with that and everyone is certainly entitled to do things their own way. That's how we find out interesting things and see cool new stuff. There's just not a "base heat problem" like there is with the Fk8.
 

optronix

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Are they "concerned with heat" or actually overheating?

Optimal engine temps have changed a lot... Today manufacturers intentionally keep coolant temp higher than in years past for better burn efficiency and lower emissions. Oil has also come a long way and it's not uncommon for good synth oil to easily tolerate 295F or more. IAT is the only thing of some concern because of the intake routing over the turbo and all the charge pipes straddling the engine block, but that's also why the hood louvre is there (to vent hot air and get air flowing through the cooling stack).

This car has no oil temp sensor, coolant temp sensor, or coolant level sensor. Strangely it has a brake temp sensor somewhere that will throw a transient code at you. It will never pull timing from oil temp. It will throw a code and light if coolant is too high temp, but the only thing that really cuts power and timing is IAT. I have felt it pull a little timing on a very hot day after a few laps, but that's also on a proper tire, race pads, and pushing the car pretty hard while lightly tuned. I believe a turbo blanket and some gold foil will solve this... Or just backing off a bit for a lap.

I've handed it over to half a dozen students (I coach) and a couple more advanced drivers right after I've done 30 mins and stopped to refuel. No issues even going out 10 mins after a 30 min session.

The only legitimate thing I've seen overheat is the rear brakes. On the track, you must do the pedal dance or you'll get 4 sessions out of the rear brakes.

Other than that, it has been a decently solid performer.

I wouldn't be concerned on the street. I would be concerned about too much cooling if you live in a place that gets cold. In one of my other cars I had to put cardboard over the oil cooler, block off the hood louvres, and drive for at least 15 mins in winter to get the oil to 190F and coolant over 200F. Because most of my drives are short, that meant I was changing oil every couple months to keep water content down. Oil thermostat opened at 186 and on the hwy in 32F weather you'd see it hit that temp then drop to 170s and bounce up and down πŸ˜‚.


Tune it for high torque and start touching other things, and then all bets are off. You're not in Honda engineering territory then, you're in your own experimentation. I've noticed many people modify first and then fix stuff vs hitting a weak link and then modifying to fix that weakness. There's nothing wrong with that and everyone is certainly entitled to do things their own way. That's how we find out interesting things and see cool new stuff. There's just not a "base heat problem" like there is with the Fk8.
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Thats interesting, because I've seen multiple posts about concerns with heat, and things getting too hot. Albeit, ive only had my car, and subsequently been around a couple of months. If that isnt the case, then thats great to hear.
If you can resist the urge to install a massive, 30lb bar & plate intercooler directly in front of the all-important radiator, you'll probably be fine.
 

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PRL is definitely louder but this is just so it for me.
1754872331306-7j.webp
I definitely have no regrets either going from PRL to the Infinity Design. Definitely makes makes more power than PRL. Dyno'd and picked up power all the way up and made my all seasons break traction up top on the dyno once it hit 500whp. Couldn't finish a clean run as kept losing traction. Didn't have the same traction issues on the dyno with the PRL.
 

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I definitely have no regrets either going from PRL to the Infinity Design. Definitely makes makes more power than PRL. Dyno'd and picked up power all the way up and made my all seasons break traction up top on the dyno once it hit 500whp. Couldn't finish a clean run as kept losing traction. Didn't have the same traction issues on the dyno with the PRL.
Curious, why would you limit yourself by running all seasons with 500whp? That seems counterintuitive for the money and time spent to get it to that power level.
 

PrecordFK7

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Curious, why would you limit yourself by running all seasons with 500whp? That seems counterintuitive for the money and time spent to get it to that power level.
I was on my winter/All season tire (DWS06+) setup on stock wheels at the time and was waiting on my wheels then. I have my Volk wheels with PS4S on and track wheels with 200tw tires now.
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