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I've found whenever I take the panels off the green clips lose some tension. I've had a number where the green becomes discolored around the base where it snaps in. With any noise chasing I treat them as disposable since they're super cheap and have a tendency to break or weaken anyway.

It's still a mcstrut. Modern cars are stiff enough that a strut tower brace doesn't do anything until you start talking heavy G. The rear could use slight stiffening but it would probably be better to add some tunnel bracing under the car than internal hatch bracing. The pickup points are the...

Are you using new green pieces each time?

Look up my "back on track" thread. I started it as a build thread but haven't updated much recently. My first week of ownership was great, and then I started noticing all sorts of things. The first wash and detail I did left me very disappointed in the paint quality. You just can't compare it...

You guys crack me up. How many furlongs is it that our cars can go on a full tank of English wine gallons? 🤣🤣

Dude, the moment I clean mine up and get everything out away neatly is the moment more crap piles up 🤣. Several years back I took photos of a condo I was moving out of and I spent a whole day doing it because every photo required moving crap out of one room and into another, or hiding behind...

Yeah the 4.0 is different since it's not turbo. The turbo 2.5 leaves the throttle plate partially open to keep the turbo spinning so you get a ton of rev hang and basically no engine braking. A lot of turbo cars are employing these techniques now so they don't make throttle modulation feel so...

Have you driven a turbo Porsche in sport+ where they have antilag active? The behavior you're describing they do to keep the throttle response up when modulating. Beyond that it's flywheel weight like you said. Generally, if you want revs to fall faster, go to a less massive flywheel. If you...

That was true years ago, but I've done oil analysis with oil at 3k, 5k, and 10k when using quality oils. There's not a significant falloff of any sort at 5k or 10k with modern oils. Most of the time the filter is the problem at 10k. It certainly depends on the temps you run though. If you're...

I'm not a big pennzoil fan, but I will say despite being a group 3, they're a very well filtered and purified 3 that acts like a 4. They're still not ideal if you plan to run any sustained oil temps above 275, but they're good. Mobil1 is the one that ime thins quickly as it ages and makes its...

Yep that style makes sense. I'd still prefer to weld on a threaded mount below. There's lots of room in the open section below the bumper for a screw in hard mount. The fabric flap ones suck in my experience. They're a few uses and done at best. Ideally you want something you can grab and lug...

You could certainly do that if you want a flap constantly poking out of the front. It would scratch up the bumper fairly quickly and wear it down a lot after time. I prefer something to thread in only when necessary since this is just a street car that sees track time 6-10 weekends per year. My...

Welcome to the club! Now take it out and track it 😉. Brian is awesome to deal with!

It's a shredded shaft bearing (I assume output shaft?). It's a nachi built bearing (you can see the branding on it) so possibly a bad batch, bad bearing, or might even just be contaminated or underfilled fluid. Latter isn't the likeliest, but it's possible. It should have been caught by qc...

Yuck... Yeah I'd let them have it back. If they're willing to buy it back in full, then it's no skin off your back and you can go get something else.

There are hook points underneath, but they certainly don't make things too easy. The only good option is to have someone weld on a mount point to the crash beam and then thread a hook through the grill into the mount point. That's my current plan, just haven't gotten to it yet. I'd rather not...

It's literally a rain catch and drip guide. The water raining in from the louvre flows down through the catch and then drips down the hole at the bottom to land forward of the turbo and engine and right behind the radiator. The factory louvre is actually incredibly well placed! The most...

Nah. Lift the hood. The black metal thing under the louvre (vent) on the hood.

I pop it back in for street. Takes like 30 seconds because it's just a few 10mm bolts. Honestly though, I rarely drive the car when it's raining because visibility is meh, wiper sprayers are trash, and Midwest roads are garbage so I'd rather take one of the SUV.

So just looked through my old notes. I did 14oz of poly fill. You have to really fluff it out first and then stuff it in there loosely. It's a lot more than you might think, but based on the volume math I did back then it should make the box act "like it's 10% larger". Also, I rode shotgun in a...