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I have the carbon one and I definitely didn't paint my edges after drilling. I did file them down gently and clean up, but now I wonder if those rubber bits are doing their job or not! 😂

Interesting, my carbon one came with them, and the tape to cover the previous holes like you have.

When you pulled the spoiler off did it have the little foam grommets that slot around the pull tabs and holes? Theoretically those are supposed to keep water out, but I'm curious how in tact they were when you pulled it off.

The clutch is technically always slipping, even under constant tension. The friction material is designed to take two flat circular surfaces and "join them" with pressure and friction material. The full face organic stuff is the softest and smoothest to engage so it heavily relies on the force...

It's load vs no load. With any load the friction material flexes and heats up. There's tiny flexion and constant movement. More torque means more load.

Like everyone said, driver and torque dependent. With these full face organic clutches there's always some wear under power, even when not slipping. Just the nature of having a clutch that doesn't jerk you around and act like an on/off switch. The low rpm and high torque nature of how turbo...

Wireless android auto has been good for me overall, but yeah I find all the electronics a bit laggy and it seems to come and go in spurts. Occasionally my touch to unlock is super slow, and when it is, the rest of the electronics will be slow too. If I restart the car it goes away for a drive or...

I can't speak to autox on the fuel thing, but on high speed tracks, you absolutely never want to be below half a tank because the slosh will run your pump dry. Weight distribution is a real thing as well, but it depends on the majority direction you're turning. Mostly turning right? Having...

Definitely never rent a car and connect carplay or android auto without your tinfoil hat on 😅

Okay. Depends on your risk tolerance and mechanical ability I guess. Nothing beats a little adrenaline rush 😉 The bmw crowd did it frequently and there's a few civic boys vlogging about doing it. Sounds like a diesel turbo truck.

Why not do it yourself? All it takes is one or two holes really. You could do more, but two will do it. It only needs to be a tiny bore and depth, and the turbo is easily accessible. 8$ for a drill bit and a few hours on a weekend...

Oh, that's totally fine. That's supposed to slip by and burn. The catch can acts as a condensation point so instead of vapor that can burn it turns into the milkshake looking thing in the can. Doesn't harm anything to collect this way, but just makes an extra step during oil changes. If it's...

With oil or vapor? Nothing really wrong with vapor, that's the intent. If there's oil then that's a concern, and if you're seeing it then it's time for a baffled pan.

Yeah, "under high G braking conditions." Boost makes it worse because the intake draws faster and creates a higher vacuum pressure when back on power, but it has to be significant of a change. Let us know if you collect anything 😊.

3k miles is aggressive. From my oil sampling the higher spec oil hasn't degraded by 5k miles or even 6 events on track. The key is really getting the oil to temp properly and backing off when things start to get toasty. Amsoil, redline, and that motul fluid can all tolerate the super high heat...

I use Amsoil or redline mostly. 5w40 is way heavier than stock both cold and hot. He's right that's it's overly aggressive for your needs. I use either 0w30 or 5w30 because in high speed and longer sessions the oil gets toasty. If you're just doing short runs like autox, the 0w20 is appropriate...

Good work! I've got some samples of a textured silver coming in to see if I'll like it. I'm going to try and match the piano center console to the dash trim and door trim. Bothers me so much they don't match. Plan is to buy the carbon door parts and wrap those with the same texture to get it all...

Just grab the heat shield and bend it back. I used to get rocks constantly because the idiots in my county decided chipseal was smart, but once I bent the shield away from the rotors it has been totally fine.

The radium one keeps the inline factory pcv so that's a good thing. The pcv systems are generally a wear item, so if it starts letting oil through, you've either generated enough g to suck up oil or it has failed and time to replace it. The factory separation should be good, so if you're just...

Given how much heat I've seen at the axle/wheel (melting the center cap on track so it flies out) and the fact the hub carrier is all aluminum so it transmits heat to the bearing very well, I would not be surprised to see bearings as a standard 40-50k wear item with hard driving. Same thing...