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ABPDE5

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You've done basically everything I have at this point! It makes a really solid difference. You went heavier on the kilmat than I did, but you probably wasted less time than me where I was searching for the echoey areas to target with deadening before going to sound blocking.

Agreed on the sub needing an amp! I plan to pull it again, wire in a high input Kenwood amp that's 300w rms, and run power when I pull the interior b and a pillars to quiet them down.

Also, corrected my other post... I typed series but in my head I was thinking parallel. Parallel wired is correct. I also wrapped the runner wires in cable wrap just in case they would rattle πŸ˜…
Where are you planning on stuffing the amp? I was measuring the compartment on the driver's side of the hatch, but all the flat surfaces are pretty small due to the shape.
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Victorofhavoc

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Where are you planning on stuffing the amp? I was measuring the compartment on the driver's side of the hatch, but all the flat surfaces are pretty small due to the shape.
I was planning on just under the sub box!

https://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_43664_Kenwood_KAC-M3001.aspx

This guy is the best fit... Small enough, plenty of power, high side in, 2 ohm, and priced right. Also a good sale on it right now with the additional 12% off and free ship (plus no tax to some places).

If I just can't shoe horn it in there, I'll probably just cut the lower foam up to make it fit there. There's a mountain of wasted storage space in foam under the hatch floor.
 

ABPDE5

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I was planning on just under the sub box!

https://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_43664_Kenwood_KAC-M3001.aspx

This guy is the best fit... Small enough, plenty of power, high side in, 2 ohm, and priced right. Also a good sale on it right now with the additional 12% off and free ship (plus no tax to some places).

If I just can't shoe horn it in there, I'll probably just cut the lower foam up to make it fit there. There's a mountain of wasted storage space in foam under the hatch floor.
Any concerns with ventilation down there? Conventional wisdom is it's necessary, although I wonder with relatively low power and class D if it even matters...
 

Tw1stedlog1k

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Where did you source the "Type S" decal for the shifter bezel? I am struggling to find a source that isn't limited to the "S".
This seller on eBay (I purchased that specific product and he threw in the size I wanted for free).
https://ebay.us/m/zcXq5B
But you can get it from any decal vendor just give them the dimensions; roughly 2" x .75"
 

Victorofhavoc

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Any concerns with ventilation down there? Conventional wisdom is it's necessary, although I wonder with relatively low power and class D if it even matters...
Heat is always a concern!

My rationale is that with a 300w rms amp, you likely won't go more than 25-30% on the gain, and definitely won't be pushing 100% volume unless you're looking to damage hearing. Realistically, I'd bet pushing 60-80 watts is more than sufficient to make all the rattles appear and that shouldn't get the amp into insanely hot territory.

The newer class D amps often perform as well, if not better than, most class A anyway.

Now if you crank that gain and start running at 25+ volume, you'll probably start seeing a decent amount of heat. Ymmv.
 

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gohan408

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is there a plug and play option if i want a little more bass?
 

Victorofhavoc

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is there a plug and play option if i want a little more bass?
That's basically what the Rockford sub is. Other than a touch of trimming, it fits perfectly and is sized perfectly for the oem box. It's a solid bump, especially when you deaden the box a bit and add polyfill.

Sorting out source quality also helps a lot. I had to turn off the dts 3d stuff, turn off dolby atmos on my phone, set spotify to lossless, use android auto wired when possible, and mess with the phone eq so it's more V oriented.
 

Croissants

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After 14 months of waiting, wheels have finally arrived and I finally got to put some more parts on the car:
  • Volk TE37 Ultra Time-Attack II 19x9.5 +36 in Dark Gunmetal instead of the matte black they usually come in on the OEM Michelins
  • Spoon Progressive Springs
  • Spoon Rigid Collars
  • EVS Front Camber Joints
Acura Integra What did you do to your Integra Type S today? πŸ™‹πŸ»β€β™‚οΈ 6F2B08E8-3DB1-4E91-9FC3-80F3EADE4B95_1_102_o

Acura Integra What did you do to your Integra Type S today? πŸ™‹πŸ»β€β™‚οΈ 3B78AF62-87CE-4B35-8423-2B4F196EA5B8_1_105_c

Acura Integra What did you do to your Integra Type S today? πŸ™‹πŸ»β€β™‚οΈ A7F44512-56B6-44D5-A7B9-8D1DA25C1664_1_105_c

Acura Integra What did you do to your Integra Type S today? πŸ™‹πŸ»β€β™‚οΈ 58B19D2D-93DF-46BF-8739-E8A50C63EDA8_1_105_c


Wheels were coated with 2 layers of CarPro Dlux and pretty happy with how easy of a coating it was to apply. Satisfied with how the car now sits with -2.5/2.7 degrees of camber all the way around. Could be a little lower aesthetically but very happy with the ride on the Spoon and not sure if it is placebo but it does feel like the rigid collars help in smoothening things out, especially over bumps and dips. Curious to see how the car will handle now going at it, need to sign up for another autox soon...
 

Dvs1270

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That's basically what the Rockford sub is. Other than a touch of trimming, it fits perfectly and is sized perfectly for the oem box. It's a solid bump, especially when you deaden the box a bit and add polyfill.

Sorting out source quality also helps a lot. I had to turn off the dts 3d stuff, turn off dolby atmos on my phone, set spotify to lossless, use android auto wired when possible, and mess with the phone eq so it's more V oriented.
I also use the Wavelet app for Android to tweak the eq. I have settings that are as good as wired. I have close to a Hardon curve set on the eq. I set Spotify to flat, turned off Atmos, & used Wavelet. Sounds really with the Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-8 upgrade.
 

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Gremlin85

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Put the winter wheels and tires on that I purchased from tire rack. These were a pretty cheap setup and I couldn't care less on the look. I dont think it fits the car whatsoever, but it's just for winter. I think it's better not to be attached to them so any damage doesnt freak me out lol.

Wheels are Motegi Racing MR116, 18x8, 35mm offset. They included the lugs and hubcentric rings for a proper fit. I dont like the chrome hollow style lugs either, but it is what it is. The wheel design with the dual bolt pattern necessitates those lugs.

The tires are just cheap Vredestein Wintrac Pro+ in a 235/40/18 size.


Acura Integra What did you do to your Integra Type S today? πŸ™‹πŸ»β€β™‚οΈ 20251105_082007


Acura Integra What did you do to your Integra Type S today? πŸ™‹πŸ»β€β™‚οΈ 20251102_142748
 

Frenzal

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If they use a lot of salt on the road, it is a bad idea to use open end lug nuts. Salt will get on the studs and you will have corrosion.
 

Gremlin85

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If they use a lot of salt on the road, it is a bad idea to use open end lug nuts. Salt will get on the studs and you will have corrosion.

I totally agree and i was so disappointed with what was provided with these wheels. I fully understand why, though. I would have picked different wheels if I knew they required lugs to fit in such a small bore. I'm working with what I have.

I used Amsoil HD Metal Protector on the studs and even undercoated the car with it. It dries to a hardened waxy gold coating and works phenomenally at stopping corrosion.

I'm OCD to a fault with keeping the car clean. PPF, ceramic coating, hand washing, and now undercoated to make sure it's easy to clean and stays as corrosion free as possible.


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whtciv2k

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Installed tuxmats today and took out the OEM all weather mats. The clutch pedal hits the mat and made it feel weird so I cut it as such that it doesn't do that anymore. I made sure that there is zero catch to make sure it's safe. Anyone thinking about getting these "full coverage" floor mats, it's something to consider.
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