What did you do to your Integra Type S today? 🙋🏻‍♂️

[ashmostro]

Man, I really need to wash and ceramic coat my car. Been too preoccupied with mods!

I may have ordered the Takeda CAI with the dry flow filter today........

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[tmperez]

I color matched the PRP (black badge) so it would match my rear and I took all the Type-s badges off. Get people commenting on it all the time.

This car looks so good. IDK if you have a filter on the photo but the color looks mint.

 

[tmperez]

I installed the illuminated door sills. It took about an hour and a half. Pretty basic stuff, not hard at all.

I used this PDF.

https://www.integraforums.com/forum/attachments/bii19600-01-pdf.223726/

 

[ABPDE5]

Yes the Rockford is worth it for a perfect drop-in into the stock box.

I recommend some kilmat on the outside of the box where it echoes as well as inside in certain hollow sounding areas. The pillow foam fill also helps virtually expand volume due to the surface area. Even if you don't swap the driver, the rest of it is worth it.

There's also room for an amp in there and you can easily find an amp the has a high power input and low pass integrated that would bump the Rockford from 50w factory power to 300w and blow the doors off.

When you wired the Rockford, did you wire the positive connection from the amp to one VC and the negative to the other (before wiring the two positive and negative leads of the VCs to each other)? The diagram in the included instructions shows that layout, which caught me off guard. Wouldn't it be easier to just wire the connections from the amp to one VC and then just tie the two positive and negative terminals of ea VC together?

I'm, like, 99.9% sure it doesn't matter -- just kind of weirded out they specify the approach they do and second guessing myself, haha.

 

[whtciv2k]

This car looks so good. IDK if you have a filter on the photo but the color looks mint.

Facts. The lighting here + PRP = one of the sickest reds I’ve seent.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

When you wired the Rockford, did you wire the positive connection from the amp to one VC and the negative to the other (before wiring the two positive and negative leads of the VCs to each other)? The diagram in the included instructions shows that layout, which caught me off guard. Wouldn't it be easier to just wire the connections from the amp to one VC and then just tie the two positive and negative terminals of ea VC together?

I'm, like, 99.9% sure it doesn't matter -- just kind of weirded out they specify the approach they do and second guessing myself, haha.

On the sub, positive to positive and negative to negative. Power/line in goes to one positive and one negative. When wiring the 4ohm into parallel it make it a 2ohm. Follow the diagram, it makes sense.

You can do either side of it honestly, and I just did one side, bu in theory they want you to do opposite ends because it marginally balances power delivery between the two coil inputs.

 

[Old_Dad_Actual]

This car looks so good. IDK if you have a filter on the photo but the color looks mint.

Thank you! No filter, I think the lighting was just really good inside the convention center, plus I spent entirely too much time wiping it down for my first (and so far only) show.

 

[ashmostro]

Received and installed my AFE/Takeda CAI today. Opted for the dry flow filter for better filtration (one of the reasons I chose to go with Takeda instead of PRL). The filter itself is quite a bit larger than the PRL cone, and it has a reverse cone top surface so it's got more total surface area than many of the alternatives (and of course more than OE).

Now, I am aware that some folks who bought this unit ended up with CEL P04F0, "EV AP System High Load Purge Line A Performance condition". The cause of this is a faulty sealing system around the evap port. AFE has since issued a TSB on this unit which replaces the inlet tube with one that uses a rubber gasket seal rather than the foam gasket in the original version. That said, I did not receive the updated version and I just drove a good amount and did not get any CEL nor experience any strange behavior so far.

I believe that the reason for the inconsistent issue among users is that the foam gasket is marginally wider than the channel it is meant to be installed into by the user. I think that this invites improper installation of the gasket if you do not take the time to ensure it's seated deeply inside the recess. It's easy to install the gasket slightly tilted such that it may not seal perfectly. I used a pick tool to encourage both the outer and inner edges of the gasket to seat deeply into the recess, and I think that's why I don't have a CEL.

Now, to the fun part. I immediately noticed more low RPM throttle responsiveness and more torque in low-mid RPMs too. I'm fairly certain that high RPM torque has improved too but this is harder for a butt dyno to detect.

Turbo woosh wooshes aren't much louder with the hood down (I upgraded from the factory airbox and a K&N filter with the PRL titanium inlet pipe). But I do feel like induction is generally louder under load, maybe by 20%.

I'm very happy with this mod, especially given the price!

 

[tmperez]

I ceramic coated today and install the this red S sticker i got from Etsy.

 

[ABPDE5]

On the sub, positive to positive and negative to negative. Power/line in goes to one positive and one negative. When wiring the 4ohm into series it make it a 2ohm. Follow the diagram, it makes sense.

You can do either side of it honestly, and I just did one side, bu in theory they want you to do opposite ends because it marginally balances power delivery between the two coil inputs.

That's what I thought. I had planned on doing one side for simplicity in my head, then read through the manual before getting to it and started second-guessing myself.

 

[ABPDE5]

Hit the rear of the car with acoustic treatment (killmat + aggfoam):

While I was in there, I upgraded the sub to the RF 8" unit a couple folks here are running and took the opportunity to treat the box (killmat inside / out; poly fill inside; aggfoam outside):

Cabin acoustics / road noise are much better, and the bass is improved (really need an amp, though). Unfortunately, interior exhaust note is crushed from both a volume and tone / detail standpoint... but there are other ways to address that

Oh, also disconnected the ANC module. Big thanks to @koatic for the great tutorial.

 

[ashmostro]

Looks like we all had a fun Saturday!

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Hit the rear of the car with acoustic treatment (killmat + aggfoam):

While I was in there, I upgraded the sub to the RF 8" unit a couple folks here are running and took the opportunity to treat the box (killmat inside / out; poly fill inside; aggfoam outside):

Cabin acoustics / road noise are much better, and the bass is improved (really need an amp, though). Unfortunately, interior exhaust note is crushed from both a volume and tone / detail standpoint... but there are other ways to address that

Oh, also disconnected the ANC module. Big thanks to @koatic for the great tutorial.

You've done basically everything I have at this point! It makes a really solid difference. You went heavier on the kilmat than I did, but you probably wasted less time than me where I was searching for the echoey areas to target with deadening before going to sound blocking.

Agreed on the sub needing an amp! I plan to pull it again, wire in a high input Kenwood amp that's 300w rms, and run power when I pull the interior b and a pillars to quiet them down.

Also, corrected my other post... I typed series but in my head I was thinking parallel. Parallel wired is correct. I also wrapped the runner wires in cable wrap just in case they would rattle

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Oh, and a borla exhaust fixes the quietness .

I went back to stock briefly and it was freakishly quiet!!

 

[Dvs1270]

Still recovering from the unexpected bodyshop visit, but did a few more cosmetic touches the last couple of days. Installed a Jogon dash bezel, lower dash bezel, sharkfin, & mirror caps (chose the cost effective route, but may upgrade to true caps), StickerFab overlays for the console S, rear reflectors, & bumpers, red doorhandle lighting, red interior lighting (may reverse the map lights), ceramic polished body & wheels, & a forged carbon plate frame. Ordered a carbon wing & hood vent. A good wash then a cruise.

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