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If you're maxed out on factory camber with the pins removed it shouldn't be an issue. However if you're dialed in to a specific setting, it could be a problem. The wheels would want to naturally camber in more when the nuts are off.

Did some.lught wrenching today.. installed the Wunderladen strut locking washers so that the struts don't shift when I'm removing the nuts for the strut tower bar or if I need to access the battery.

Cheers to that. I'm constantly looking for things to wrench on or mod. I mean I *could* take up crocheting or something but cars are more fun. Albeit a little pricey...

It's about this bad, not terribly noticeable but it's there. Looks and feels like damage to the paint layer only.

This happened to me before as well and it locked up pretty tight also. Grab the metal collar (circled in yellow) with one hand (it helps if you have really grippy gloves) to keep the whole thing steady and then twist the black spring collar (circled in blue) with your other hand. Try to rotate...

Once you lift the white clip, it should release and you should be able to rotate it. You might need to be a little more heavy handed with it but it should eventually "break" loose.

I knicked one of my wheels already trying to avoid a pothole 😩

I'm digging the look!

Comparing our setups, you *should* be clear (in theory) as we're only off by 2mm on overall diameter. I think the issue comes down to the tires, I suspect the Bridgestones just run taller and wider than spec? Or maybe the Michelin's run smaller.

Something I discovered when comparing to my buddy's car is that FL5 fenders are "shaved" from factory. They have a few mm of clearance because of that. I ran into this rubbing issue when I was running the 275/35 previously also but I am on H&R springs. I tried flattening out the fender liner and...

I'm genuinely surprised you are getting rub, especially with that much camber. Which corner(s) is rubbing? Which part of the tire(s) is rubbing?

You're not helping lol!

I'm with you, I've been contemplating if I should just call it now or go all in. I have a TSP downpipe and the PRL inlet sitting in boxes and it's a little concerning (for my wallet) how dangerously close the turbo is to to those two components. The "while I'm in there" approach may win out.

Wow those Kumhos run WIDE!

They have remote unlock services now. I don't remember which vendor it was but I would check with Jester, DRob, Phearable to start.

That was one thing I noticed on these cars and it was confirmed when the tuners really dug into them. The factory intake design is really good and the same with the exhaust. Fueling is the real bottleneck when pushing these cars. A "Stage 2" tune with and without exhaust and intake bolt-ons...

I've always been of the opinion that intakes were not performance mods. Like exhaust. It's all for noise unless you're really pushing the envelope and trying to squeeze every last bit of performance out of the car.

I have the project kics monolith and also purchased the end caps because I didn't want the exposed studs.

I've found that we hit a plateau at ~380hp on the stage 2 tunes and basic bolt ons. After that, it requires a huge cash commitment to overcome that with turbo, intercooler,and fuel. Even then it's roughly a jump of 50hp-80hp from a stage 2 and close to $7k just in parts. With Ethanol it's a...

I got into about 10 mins of the video and I love how charmed they are by the car! The owner seems super proud of the Integra nameplate as well. Since their baseline experience is with the Type R, all of the little differences of the Type S comes off as meaningful and exciting. The reception...