ABPDE5
Senior Member
Where did you source the "Type S" decal for the shifter bezel? I am struggling to find a source that isn't limited to the "S".Yes, I got the gunmetal and did some.arts and crafts on the inscribed pattern.![]()
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Where did you source the "Type S" decal for the shifter bezel? I am struggling to find a source that isn't limited to the "S".Yes, I got the gunmetal and did some.arts and crafts on the inscribed pattern.![]()
Where are you planning on stuffing the amp? I was measuring the compartment on the driver's side of the hatch, but all the flat surfaces are pretty small due to the shape.You've done basically everything I have at this point! It makes a really solid difference. You went heavier on the kilmat than I did, but you probably wasted less time than me where I was searching for the echoey areas to target with deadening before going to sound blocking.
Agreed on the sub needing an amp! I plan to pull it again, wire in a high input Kenwood amp that's 300w rms, and run power when I pull the interior b and a pillars to quiet them down.
Also, corrected my other post... I typed series but in my head I was thinking parallel. Parallel wired is correct. I also wrapped the runner wires in cable wrap just in case they would rattle![]()
I was planning on just under the sub box!Where are you planning on stuffing the amp? I was measuring the compartment on the driver's side of the hatch, but all the flat surfaces are pretty small due to the shape.
Any concerns with ventilation down there? Conventional wisdom is it's necessary, although I wonder with relatively low power and class D if it even matters...I was planning on just under the sub box!
https://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_43664_Kenwood_KAC-M3001.aspx
This guy is the best fit... Small enough, plenty of power, high side in, 2 ohm, and priced right. Also a good sale on it right now with the additional 12% off and free ship (plus no tax to some places).
If I just can't shoe horn it in there, I'll probably just cut the lower foam up to make it fit there. There's a mountain of wasted storage space in foam under the hatch floor.
This seller on eBay (I purchased that specific product and he threw in the size I wanted for free).Where did you source the "Type S" decal for the shifter bezel? I am struggling to find a source that isn't limited to the "S".
Heat is always a concern!Any concerns with ventilation down there? Conventional wisdom is it's necessary, although I wonder with relatively low power and class D if it even matters...
That's basically what the Rockford sub is. Other than a touch of trimming, it fits perfectly and is sized perfectly for the oem box. It's a solid bump, especially when you deaden the box a bit and add polyfill.is there a plug and play option if i want a little more bass?
I also use the Wavelet app for Android to tweak the eq. I have settings that are as good as wired. I have close to a Hardon curve set on the eq. I set Spotify to flat, turned off Atmos, & used Wavelet. Sounds really with the Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-8 upgrade.That's basically what the Rockford sub is. Other than a touch of trimming, it fits perfectly and is sized perfectly for the oem box. It's a solid bump, especially when you deaden the box a bit and add polyfill.
Sorting out source quality also helps a lot. I had to turn off the dts 3d stuff, turn off dolby atmos on my phone, set spotify to lossless, use android auto wired when possible, and mess with the phone eq so it's more V oriented.
If they use a lot of salt on the road, it is a bad idea to use open end lug nuts. Salt will get on the studs and you will have corrosion.