What did you do to your Integra Type S today? 🙋🏻‍♂️

[gohan408]

Those wunderladen dip stick social media campaigns got me buying one. It looks great, but the handle is too hot to touch if your engine hasn't cooled. Plus the low and high indicator has a wider range, and it's a bit wiggly when inserted. For now, I'm sticking to oem.

We need to go digital like Euro cars. I'm really bad at reading dip sticks.

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[ABPDE5]

We need to go digital like Euro cars. I'm really bad at reading dip sticks.

I much prefer having the option of an "analog" or physical solution (i.e. not reliant on a sensor and calibration) for things like this... that said, couldn't hurt to have both

 

[madchiller]

We need to go digital like Euro cars. I'm really bad at reading dip sticks.

until it breaks and you're cussing it for not being manual.

 

[mek]

Install the PRL motor mount. Easiest install ever!

 

[SlippyFist]

finally did my homelink frankenmirror lol

 

[gohan408]

until it breaks and you're cussing it for not being manual.

its been around for 20 years, I think it’ll be fine.

 

[SlippyFist]

Install the PRL motor mount. Easiest install ever!

i still need to do mine, its been sitting on my desk for weeks lol. just havent felt like bustin the quickjacks out lol

 

[madchiller]

its been around for 20 years, I think it’ll be fine.

car aint getting any younger.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

car aint getting any younger.

My q7 has digital, and it's going on 9 years now as my tow pig. It works quite reliably, but the only annoying thing is the car has to be warmed up and then sitting for two minutes on the read screen on a level surface.

It's faster to read a manual dip stick... At least a decent one and not the weirdo Honda one.

 

[madchiller]

My q7 has digital, and it's going on 9 years now as my tow pig. It works quite reliably, but the only annoying thing is the car has to be warmed up and then sitting for two minutes on the read screen on a level surface.

It's faster to read a manual dip stick... At least a decent one and not the weirdo Honda one.

grab one of the wunderladen racing dip sticks without the orange tip on it

 

[ABPDE5]

I am with you on the EQ... I can't settle on what I want to do with it. When I do some measurements, I want to test what each of the 3 bands does.

I also don't find my results align with SG's, granted I am now far from "stock". I should have gotten a baseline! Their waterfall graph shows the low end has a LOT of resonance, and my guess is that this is contributing to a substantial amount of energy in their FR plot.

Finally took some measurements. Note this is after:
(I) replacing the stock woofer with the RF 8" unit;
(II) treating the sub cabinet (killmat inside and outside / polyfill inside / aggfoam outside);
(III) treating the doors, hatch, and the entirety of the cabin with killmat and aggfoam;
(IV) sealing the center channel speaker cabinet from the rest of the dash.

(I did not put foam rings around any of the drivers... just haven't gotten around to it.)

Yes, I should have taken measurements first, and it was dumb of me not to. Long story short, it wasn't convenient... I had to borrow a laptop for this, as the only Windows device I have left is a home-built desktop (and I'm dual booting Linux at this point with the hope of leaving MS behind in the near future considering their current direction).

Measurements were taken with a calibrated Umik-1 mic and REW. 1/6 smoothing applied.

Signal / Distortion (and Noise) - Driver's Seat:

Note: I may have a rattle at 300hz contributing to the THD hump... measurements from other positions showed a spike in the noise floor there.

Waterfall - Driver's Seat:

RT60 - Driver's Seat:

Freq. Resp:
Green - Driver's Seat
Red - Passenger's Seat
Pink - Rear Driver's Side
Blue - Rear Passenger's Side

Note: smoothing hides it a bit, but the passenger seat does have a 200hz suckout, probably d/t driver positioning and cancellations, consistent with what's shown in the SG measurements, so maybe that's where they positioned their mic.

EQ, Bass +6 / 0 / -6, Driver's Seat:

EQ, Mids +6 / 0 / -6, Driver's Seat:

EQ, Treble +6 / 0 / -6:

With the RF woofer (and EQ at zero) tuning is more or less a reasonably exaggerated take on car audio recommendations from Harman (elevated bass, strong treble roll-off), which are basically an extreme "house curve"... theory being road and drivetrain noise cover bass more substantially than mids (and not so much at high frequency).

I did only take these at one volume setting, so I'm not sure if Acura is dynamically adjusting EQ / FR based on volume or if we would start to lose bass output at higher volumes. It does look like we might be on the fringe for missing power for the sub, given the "bass +6" setting shows a smaller delta than for other EQ extremes and bands.

(@Victorofhavoc FYI)

 

[madchiller]

(I) replacing the stock woofer with the RF 8" unit;
(II) treating the sub cabinet (killmat inside and outside / polyfill inside / aggfoam outside);
(III) treating the doors, hatch, and the entirety of the cabin with killmat and aggfoam;
(IV) sealing the center channel speaker cabinet from the rest of the dash.

do you have a DIY of these steps and possibly links to the material you used?

 

[UltraV]

Looks great! What paint did you use for this? Assuming you just taped off the buttons and painted carefully?

Yeah very subtle, but looks really great!

 

[ABPDE5]

do you have a DIY of these steps and possibly links to the material you used?

For acoustic treatment, including a fair bit of discarded material (d/t trial & error w. cutting, etc.):
3x 36 sq ft of 89mil Killmat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0751CBXBT?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
2x 55 sq ft of 160mil Aggfoam:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BWD1M9Y5?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

This is a good reference for acoustic treatment: https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/sound-deadening-project.54327/

I applied Killmat to the interior of the hatch, inside of the exterior door panels, floor of the cabin, interior and exterior of the sub cabinet, and the rear side of some interior panels. I applied Aggfoam over the Killmat in the hatch and on the exterior of the sub cabinet, as well as over the vapor barriers on the doors (also used it to seal the center speaker cabinet from the dash). I have yet to treat my A / B / C pillars (mostly interested in solving outstanding A / B pillar rattles) and the fender liners.

The woofer is available here:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P3SD48/Rockford-Fosgate-P3SD4-8.html?omnews=20098613

Minor cutting is required to the very top piece of trim on the sub box (you could do this with shears or a razor) and to the bottom of the ring on the woofer. I used a dremel (and cleaned up with a file) for both, and altogether it took me less than 10 minutes.

You can find notes on this process here:
https://www.integraforums.com/forum/threads/2024-acura-integra-type-s-sub-replacement.51494/

(I would recommend adding Killmat to the sub cabinet regardless of whether or not you replace the woofer.) I still need to add foam rings around the outside of the subwoofer and the woofers in the doors to seal them from the cabinets.

Overall notes:
From a road noise standpoint: Hatch > Cabin Floor > Doors
From a stereo acoustics standpoint: Doors > Hatch > Cabin Floor
And, from an "ease of installation" and ROI standpoint: Hatch > Doors > Cabin Floor (this is the prioritization I would recommend)

You can do the hatch with a single box of Killmat and Aggfoam, and you can do the doors and under the rear seat with another box of each. That's probably the best approach in terms of efficiency. The cabin floor requires significantly more effort re: disassembly.

I would also recommend hitting the back of interior panels with Killmat during the process. Between treating the doors and panels, the sensation of quality that you get when interacting with the car is levels above stock... closing doors, interacting with the interior (even just the interior acoustic properties in the cabin and the isolation from the exterior), etc. is so much more satisfying than the hollow / rattly experience we get from the factory.

I probably added 50lbs between acoustic material and the woofer (most of which is on the floor and between the wheels). I would say it's worth it; the car is a more enjoyable place to be, and therefore more enjoyable to drive (plus you can hear more engine / induction note now).

Some pics of the process:

Cabin:

Doors:

Hatch:

(I also applied Aggfoam to the floor of the hatch on top of the Killmat... looks like I forgot to grab a pic.)

Woofer, etc.:

 

[bisquick]

Ooof, that’s a lot of work to improve the overall sound quality. Why not just start with a better base?

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