Which Acuity parts needed to just remove lateral slop on shifter?

[optronix]

Have you or have you not driven a DE5/FL5 with both the CDV and CMC damper removed? That's the only experience I care about.



Negative. The total is 31 ms from the initial delay (attributed to the CMC damper) and then once the clutch fork starts moving, it takes 37 ms more time to fully engage. 31 ms + 37 ms = 68 ms.

But again that's one way. The reason I split them up is because the effect the delay valve has on the rate of engagement should in theory only be in play when you're releasing the pedal. But the delay caused by the damper will have an effect in both directions of pedal movement.

For example:

You push the clutch pedal in, and you increase the pressure at the master. The damper "sees" this increase in pressure and has to equalize before fluid flows to the slave. Once it equalizes, the slave starts moving.

The other direction, you release the pedal and decrease the pressure at the master. The damper "sees" this and has to equalize once again before the pressure can drop at the slave. Once it equalizes, the slave starts moving.

That's two delays caused by the damper in one shift.

So really, the total effect is (31*2)+37=99 ms.

It's a BIG difference, and I believe the damper is responsible for over half of it.



Your statement is that "dampers don't typically cause perceptible impact" and yet here I am with hard numbers and experience that says otherwise... and you want to just fall back on "typically."

You haven't tried this, you don't have any first-hand knowledge what it does.

You continue to shit on it for no reason.

You ignore or misrepresent the data I've provided.

You claim that despite my experience with it, it must be in my head ("imperceptible").

Welcome to the ignore list! See ya later! This is just not worth my time.

What an absolute joke!

Am I taking crazy pills? Since when is it acceptable behavior to shout "you're going on the ignore list" after writing a nonsensical dissertation? I don't care what platform you're on, that is not how adults communicate.

And this is a demonstrated habit at this point.

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[ashmostro]

My Overland Designs extended height shift boot came in. I think it looks great!

 

[ashmostro]

Decided to give the Hybrid Racing transmission detent springs another chance, with a catch.

Previously, I tried out installing just the lateral spring to tighten up the side to side slop and didn't like it. All it did was make the diagonal shifts feel less fluid.

Today, I tried out just installing the longitudinal spring as I've been feeling like I want a bit more initial resistance when going into gear, and then a more pronounced click once fully engaged.

The single spring accomplished exactly that! Each mod I've made to the car has incrementally made it more joyful to drive. I'm happy with this one!

 

[whtciv2k]

I have the acuity 4 way adjustable short shifter. It gets rid of all slop, lateral and otherwise. It’s my favorite mod to date.

 

[bigfx]

I have the acuity 4 way adjustable short shifter. It gets rid of all slop, lateral and otherwise. It’s my favorite mod to date.

I agree just installed this last week and it really firms up the shift and I didn’t even get the optional spring, great mod tbh.

 

[wontondon]

Installed a wunderladen rear motor mount to replace the current prl mount, and removed the clutch delay valve from the slave cylinder.

Marginal NVH increase at idle but otherwise unnoticeable with the new RMM. Much less engine flex with 1-2 shift and going on/off throttle.

Big fan of the clutch delay valve delete as well - more consistent and direct feeling of engagement from the clutch.

 

[ashmostro]

I have the acuity 4 way adjustable short shifter. It gets rid of all slop, lateral and otherwise. It’s my favorite mod to date.

So do I... (read the saga of this thread for the details) it didn't get rid of the lateral slop I dislike, but it did improve other aspects of the feel enough for me to keep it. It's a great product. Acuity told me that the lateral slop I was targeting is a built in feature of the Honda transmission that can't be cured. Good guys to be so honest.

I also have the PRL rmm and a CDV delete. Awesome mods!

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Installed a wunderladen rear motor mount to replace the current prl mount, and removed the clutch delay valve from the slave cylinder.

Marginal NVH increase at idle but otherwise unnoticeable with the new RMM. Much less engine flex with 1-2 shift and going on/off throttle.

Big fan of the clutch delay valve delete as well - more consistent and direct feeling of engagement from the clutch.

How are the vibrations when using no throttle to engage from a stop? Like when going up a driveway or backing up?

I used an insert which are generally supposed to be softer than a full mount, but it was pretty bad so it came out after 80 miles.

 

[ashmostro]

How are the vibrations when using no throttle to engage from a stop? Like when going up a driveway or backing up?

I used an insert which are generally supposed to be softer than a full mount, but it was pretty bad so it came out after 80 miles.

Wasn't directed at me, but my PRL RMM is totally daily driveable. Passes the spouse test and this is our only car right now. I strongly recommend it without reservation regardless of application.

 

[wontondon]

How are the vibrations when using no throttle to engage from a stop? Like when going up a driveway or backing up?

I used an insert which are generally supposed to be softer than a full mount, but it was pretty bad so it came out after 80 miles.

How are the vibrations when using no throttle to engage from a stop? Like when going up a driveway or backing up?

I used an insert which are generally supposed to be softer than a full mount, but it was pretty bad so it came out after 80 miles.

I almost always use throttle, but have found with low throttle application that I'm able to fully let off the clutch a touch earlier. Vibrations are fairly minimal, but if you were bothered by the insert, this would probably be worse.

I've also installed rigid collars which I've heard can help with the vibrations, but can't confirm as those went on a long time ago.

 

[ABPDE5]

Wasn't directed at me, but my PRL RMM is totally daily driveable. Passes the spouse test and this is our only car right now. I strongly recommend it without reservation regardless of application.

Agreed. I'm also running the PRL. Immediately post-install, it was a little rough in the scenarios @Victorofhavoc lists above, but it softened up over the first 100-200 miles or so. At this point, there's a little more vibration at start-up, but after RPMs normalize, it doesn't call attention to itself, and I don't notice it at all when driving (car is obviously more responsive to aggressive throttle and exhibits less wheel hop).

 

[ashmostro]

Agreed. I'm also running the PRL. Immediately post-install, it was a little rough in the scenarios @Victorofhavoc lists above, but it softened up over the first 100-200 miles or so. At this point, there's a little more vibration at start-up, but after RPMs normalize, it doesn't call attention to itself, and I don't notice it at all when driving (car is obviously more responsive to aggressive throttle and exhibits less wheel hop).

Exactly my experience too. I actually like the slight tonal increase as it makes me feel more connected to the engine RPM, which helps me drive smoother.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Agreed. I'm also running the PRL. Immediately post-install, it was a little rough in the scenarios @Victorofhavoc lists above, but it softened up over the first 100-200 miles or so. At this point, there's a little more vibration at start-up, but after RPMs normalize, it doesn't call attention to itself, and I don't notice it at all when driving (car is obviously more responsive to aggressive throttle and exhibits less wheel hop).

Appreciate the responses.

For me, I spend a lot of time not touching throttle. Every time I back out of a parking space, or taking off at a light, I'm usually engaging the clutch and moving before any throttle is applied. At the track, it's every time I roll onto the scales or dyno that gentle feathering and movement is necessary. Only time I give throttle to move is when I'm trying to really take off briskly at a light and then I'm at 1k rpm or so. After the protune, 1500rpm take off feels like a launch, lol.

The area the insert really drove me mad was when crawling up the driveway where I'm feathering the clutch to slowly pull into the garage. I have a 1.5" step to cross and I don't like hitting it at high speed. The insert made it necessary to go to at least 1200 rpm or the whole car would shake violently trying to feather it. Even after 150+ miles of break in . Even my wife made comments about how rough it was.

I guess I can always buy one of these and try it. It only takes like 15 mins to install, so not that big of a deal to try or reverse.

 

[ashmostro]

Got it, now I understand. I can creep just fine with clutch only and the car does not shudder at all unless I'm about to stall it (other issue entirely, obviously).

 

[ABPDE5]

Appreciate the responses.

For me, I spend a lot of time not touching throttle. Every time I back out of a parking space, or taking off at a light, I'm usually engaging the clutch and moving before any throttle is applied. At the track, it's every time I roll onto the scales or dyno that gentle feathering and movement is necessary. Only time I give throttle to move is when I'm trying to really take off briskly at a light and then I'm at 1k rpm or so. After the protune, 1500rpm take off feels like a launch, lol.

The area the insert really drove me mad was when crawling up the driveway where I'm feathering the clutch to slowly pull into the garage. I have a 1.5" step to cross and I don't like hitting it at high speed. The insert made it necessary to go to at least 1200 rpm or the whole car would shake violently trying to feather it. Even after 150+ miles of break in . Even my wife made comments about how rough it was.

I guess I can always buy one of these and try it. It only takes like 15 mins to install, so not that big of a deal to try or reverse.

Yep, I know what you're talking about.

When first installed, NVH in the scenarios you're describing is very noticeable. For me -- and I specifically targeted the PRL mount because of its mild reputation -- it was jarring and I was worried the mount was going to be more aggressive than I wanted (when I first backed off of my race ramps and out of the garage, I remember thinking "this might be too raw for what I want this car to be".)

~1,000 miles later, it has softened up enough that I almost miss some of the NVH on initial start up. There is still a bit of an increase in NVH in those "throttle feathering" scenarios you describe, but it isn't significant. I won't try to tell you it won't be more than what you're looking for, as this is extremely subjective, but what I will say is: if you give the PRL mount a shot, definitely wait a couple weeks / several hundred miles before making a decision; the rubber bushing softens up, and NVH reduces substantially. I think the term "break-in" is often overused in enthusiast circles (particularly in scenarios where it doesn't apply, like electronics ), but it's very pertinent with this mount.

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