Search results

Have you checked the cosmetic valve cover...cover? Mine was warped and rattling like crazy at certain RPMs. I've removed it and that rattle went away completely.

No I haven't ran that one, sorry

I just swapped in the Cobb RMM replacing my PRL unit. It's definitely a bit quieter.

He's probably just an A Spec still...

Hmmm. Me likey that 275/30 look a LOT. Like a lot, a lot.

He's an Integra Type s?

If you get it wrong by even one spline, you'll know right away when you drive the car and the steering wheel is cocked to one side. Easy to resolve. Do it :)

It's pretty hard to set off an airbag when the battery is disconnected (or even when it isn't, but don't try this). Don't be nervous.

Folks, I have some pretty cool news (I think it's cool, at least)! I have sleuthed ALL of the connectors to and from the factory ELS amplifier, which means I can build T harnesses for myself and anyone who wants to go full factory integration with a DSP system (ie, not just the subwoofer, but...

Oh, and I scrapped the plan of running the sub off of the DSP amp (would be 250W into 4 ohms) and instead bought a 700W@1 ohm amp for max headroom. The sub I bought can be wired for 4 or 1 ohm thanks to its 2 ohm DV coils.

And so begins the wiring planning... I'm going to go ahead and run full digital off the OEM HU and completely bypass the factory amp D/A converter and processing. The signal is S/PDIF from the HU and I have sleuthed the proprietary connector type. Volume control for now will be via a new knob...

It can't help it. It was born that way.

I prefer pressure bleeders too, but didn't have the correct adapter for the MC in our cars, so I tried a vacuum bleeder and it actually ended up working really really well. And it was FAST.

Oh, and these are the wiring adapters for the 6.5's

You'll want to go with a standard size 6.5" speaker and pair it with this type of speaker adapter plate. This will work for the front and rear door lower speakers. Warning: because the opening in our doors is oddly shaped, you should stick with 6.5" speakers with standard sized magnet and frame...

Appreciate you looking into that and posting up here for our benefit. That said, it's def not my cable retention mechanism. I too had to struggle to get it right so I spent a lot of time observing it while rowing gears without the console installed and it's fully tightened down.

I did factory and tried both springs. What I ended up liking the most (and how it's set up now) is the longitudinal spring only. The springs did nothing for the slop. They just make it so you need to use more lateral force to feel it. But the displacement is the same.

I have WAY more slop than you (sounds weird). Like a LOT more. Grrrr.... The only delta between our setups are the cable bushings. I'm running stock. Hmmmmmmmmmm....

This little 8" sub is a beast! Weighs 20 lbs.

No, it won't fit there. It'll just be in the trunk, hence my desire for the smallest possible loss of utility.