Single source of truth: DIY rear brake pad replacement

[optronix]

I'm no stranger to doing my own work, although I admit I kind of swore it off years ago but I also think that replacing rear brakes at 15k miles at some of the exorbitant prices a dealer would charge is offensive enough to get me to pick up a wrench again. My rear brakes are approaching terminal failure, and if I'm having a remotely difficult time tracking down good information on how to go about replacing them, others probably are too.

I'm aware of this thread: https://www.integraforums.com/forum...ithout-expensive-maintenance-mode-tool.56099/

That seems to be very helpful for folks who want to avoid spending on a scanner tool, but doesn't go into some of the prerequisite information on why it's needed in the first place.

So in this thread, I'd like to have a relatively concise amount of information related to what the "recommended" path to DIY-ing your rear brakes would be, and what other options may be available if for example, you didn't want to spend the $60 on this tool (which is where the linked video would likely be useful).

I've seen someone reference using a tool like this, which I've used in the past. What I'd also like to know then, would it still also be necessary to use the OBD tool to put the parking brake in maintenance mode even if you used the "windback" tool?

This is all just so very stupid and makes me want to go back to the 90s.

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[StingertimeNC]

I'm happy with the scanner thingy. Easy enough to put brakes in and out of service mode. I know I've posted this up before, but just so it's in this thread...

This is what I have:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C7W2V589?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1

 

[optronix]

And sanity check for ChatGPT (o3):

Why the extra step? — Understanding “maintenance mode”

The 2024 Integra Type S uses an electronic parking brake (EPB) integrated into each rear caliper. A small motor drives a threaded screw that forces the piston outward when you set the brake. If you simply push the piston back with a C‑clamp or wind‑back cube while the motor is still meshed, you can strip the gears, damage the seal, or trigger EPB fault codes. Putting the system in service / maintenance mode (or completely removing the motor) electronically or mechanically retracts the screw so the piston moves freely and the EPB can recalibrate after reassembly.


Recommended “OEM‑style” DIY path (uses an inexpensive bidirectional scan tool)

Step	What you’ll do	Notes & Torque specs (ft‑lb unless noted)
1	Buy/borrow a bidirectional OBD‑II scanner with EPB function (Autel AP200, ThinkDiag, i‑Carsoft, etc., ≈ US $60)	The scanner menu will say “EPB ► Maintenance ► Pad Replace.”
2	Safe‑up the car – chock front wheels, ignition ON, gear in P, EPB released. Connect the scanner and select “Maintenance/Replace pads.”	The motors whirr and retract; the dash shows an EPB service message.
3	Jack, support, remove rear wheels.	Lug‑nut torque when reinstalling: 94 lb‑ft.
4	Remove caliper guide‑pin bolts (7 mm hex) and hang caliper.	Pin bolt torque: 22 lb‑ft.
5	Retract piston fully – use a normal 3‑pin wind‑back cube or a piston press (the screw is already disengaged).	Don’t apply more than light hand force; fluid should flow back into the reservoir.
6	Replace pads/rotor, clean & lube guide pins, reassemble.	Bracket bolts: 54 lb‑ft; caliper pin bolts: 22 lb‑ft.
7	Re‑connect scanner ► “Finish/Exit maintenance.” Motors advance and self‑adjust.	Pump brake pedal until firm before moving the car.
8	Bed‑in pads per manufacturer; verify EPB holds on a grade.

Pros • Safest for the EPB motor and seals • No gaskets disturbed • Automatic calibration
Cons • Requires the £/$60 scanner and a smartphone (for the AP200)


Forum members confirmed the AP200 process works on the Integra Type S and costs about $60. (integraforums.com)


Lower‑cost or “no‑scan‑tool” alternatives

Option	How it works	Caveats
A. Built‑in “manual” EPB service routine (pedal–VSA–EPB switch dance used on many Hondas)	Sequence (varies by model) cycles the motors to service mode without a scan tool.	Procedure for the Integra isn’t published by Acura; hit‑or‑miss success reports.
B. Remove EPB motor (2 Torx screws) and retract screw by hand with a T‑30 bit, then push piston in with a wind‑back cube.	Avoids buying a scanner. Replace the rubber gasket, keep connector clean, then let the EPB self‑calibrate when re‑engaged.	Risk of damaging the gasket or motor; some actuators have failed after removal. (integraforums.com)
C. “Back‑probe” motor connector with a 12 V power supply to run the motor out/in.	Requires wiring skill and fused leads.	Easy to reverse polarity accidentally; no feedback when fully retracted.
D. Skip all of the above and use brute‑force wind‑back through the motor	Possible, but the screw can over‑travel and tear the internal EPB seal. “You can wind it back too far and your caliper is toast.” (integraforums.com)	Not recommended unless you’re replacing the caliper anyway.

A Honda/Civic tech thread summarises the two safe choices: use a scan tool or remove the actuator and retract it manually. (CivicX.com)


Your specific questions

Do I still need the OBD tool if I’m using a wind‑back cube?
Yes, if the EPB motor is still bolted to the caliper. The cube merely turns the piston; the motor’s screw remains engaged, so you risk stripping it. The only time you can safely use a cube without a scan tool is after you’ve removed the EPB motor and mechanically wound the screw back (Option B above), or after the motor has been retracted electronically (scan tool or manual sequence).


Is the scan tool worth it?
For a single brake job the AP200 roughly equals the cost of one hour of dealer labour. It also resets TPMS, clears fault codes, etc., so most owners find it pays for itself quickly.


Parts & consumables checklist

• Rear pads and (if needed) rotors
• 7 mm hex socket for guide pins, 17 mm socket for bracket bolts
• Piston wind‑back cube or press
• High‑temp silicone or Moly brake grease
• Torque wrench (22 lb‑ft & 54 lb‑ft ranges)
• Brake cleaner and shop towels
• Optional: new EPB‑motor gasket (Honda P/N 43028‑TL0‑003) if doing Option B

Final sanity checks

1. Battery voltage – keep a charger on the car when cycling the EPB motors.
2. Fluid level – watch the master‑cylinder reservoir while pushing pistons back.
3. Post‑job calibration – after exiting maintenance mode, apply/release the EPB 3‑4 times and road‑test at low speed to confirm no warnings.

DIYing the job this way saves dealer labour and keeps the EPB happy for the next 15 k‑20 k miles of spirited Type S driving. Happy wrenching!

 

[optronix]

I'm happy with the scanner thingy. Easy enough to put brakes in and out of service mode. I know I've posted this up before, but just so it's in this thread...

This is what I have:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C7W2V589?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1

That's about 3x the cost of the AP200... and I just realized this morning my front tires are corded too! Every penny counts!

 

[creaturemachine]

Another good reason for the scan tool is when you are flushing your brake lines. You'll want to cycle the abs pump so the fluid is replaced in there as well, and the scan tool should have an option for this.

 

[StingertimeNC]

That's about 3x the cost of the AP200... and I just realized this morning my front tires are corded too! Every penny counts!

Time for some 200 TW tires!!!

Also you need to come to VIR for the Halloween Trackdaze two day event!!

 

[stanleywinthrop]

There are two Honda approved methods and both involve

1. backing the epb off from the caliper first and then

2. pressing the caliper piston straight in, like any disc caliper.

If you research long enough you'll see that a large percentage of folks who try to twist in the caliper piston from the front without backing the epb off cause damage to their epb.



You can back the epb off by using a scan tool, or manually taking the epb off and cranking the epb back from the rear. The first is a lot less labor intensive. It's always weird to me that someone has a $50k car and wants to do their own work but won't spend $60 to properly do that work.

There is really only one risk of using a scan tool: do not reactivate the maintenance mode while the caliper is removed from the rotor. This will cause permanent damage. So you must
1. Activate maintenance mode before touching anything on the brakes.
2. Disconnect your scan tool, turn car off.
3. Do your brake work, and fully reinstall everything.
4. Reconnect scan tool, turn car on and take out of maintenance mode.

I recently splurged on prime day and got a launch 2.0 scan tool for $150, and it can do a lot of stuff including program keys. But if all you want is the ability to check codes and use epb maintenance mode the ap200 is fully sufficient.

 

[bisquick]

I’ve replaced my pads using both methods but would rather have the control units manage it themselves with an OBDII.

I have this scanner but recommend a nicer option as it can be slow and freeze at times.

Modern cars are full of technology, you’ll find plenty of other uses for a scan tool.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

I've done all the methods at this point. Honestly, I prefer the remove motor and manual windback. I find it to be just as fast as the scan tool, if not faster.

I support having the scan tool for other needs, though. I still own a couple, but I do the windback manually with an e torx.

 

[jedi03]

I just tested my snapon solus...had to trick it into thinking its an older type r as the software stops at 2021 vehicles...but it entered maintenance mode without issue!

 

[Spart]

Is anyone aware of a phone app or Windows app that can activate maintenance mode via an OBDLink MX+ ?

That unit has been such a good piece of kit for BMW and Ford cars. FORscan (the Windows version) can do a LOT of stuff for Ford vehicles, and then there's Bimmerlink for BMWs. Doesn't seem like there's many options for Honda/Acura though.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Is anyone aware of a phone app or Windows app that can activate maintenance mode via an OBDLink MX+ ?

That unit has been such a good piece of kit for BMW and Ford cars. FORscan (the Windows version) can do a LOT of stuff for Ford vehicles, and then there's Bimmerlink for BMWs. Doesn't seem like there's many options for Honda/Acura though.

I've been looking myself and nothing similar exists. OBDeleven decided to work with Toyota so I'm hopeful they may pick up Honda at some point, but who knows.

I'd love to get my hands on the registry on this ecu. There are basic features I'd love to have... Like tire pressure setting.

 

[Z31-DC5-DE5]

https://a.co/d/8bzFuKB

In case anyone is looking to pick up an Autel AP200, it just went on sale for $50 (a day after I already bought one ).

Registered it to the free Honda package and it worked to get the car into brake maintenance mode after 3 or 4 attempts.

 

[Irishmykl]

Is anyone aware of a phone app or Windows app that can activate maintenance mode via an OBDLink MX+ ?

That unit has been such a good piece of kit for BMW and Ford cars. FORscan (the Windows version) can do a LOT of stuff for Ford vehicles, and then there's Bimmerlink for BMWs. Doesn't seem like there's many options for Honda/Acura though.

Yeah Bimmercode has been a blessing for my MINI Cooper, I was hoping there would be something similar for the Integra.

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