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DCT will always be better. Power steering will always be better. Boosted brakes will always be better. Fuel injection will always be better. You found one weird hill to die on. Besides all that, if you're not manually adjusting spark timing then you're not actually driving.

Yeah rev-match is S-tier.

Drive it harder.

Michelin Pilot Alpin 5. Size down to 18 for a little better chance against those winter potholes.

1. I don't know who this feature is for. It makes it harder to get out as the seat is slowly sinking away from you. Plus waiting for the seat to slowly crawl forward so you can press the clutch enough to start the thing? Fuck that shit, it stays off. 2. This stays off too. You have to...

A block heater will warm the coolant slightly but doesn't do anything for the oil. They're for places where you will seriously have a hard time starting without one, like regularly -40 and below.

Modern cars go into limp mode for a variety of reasons. The "symptoms" listed are all consequences of going into limp mode. Because your stang went limp over its clutch doesn't mean that's the only thing that will trigger it, especially on a completely unrelated car.

Don't replace the studs unless you have to. A new car in Florida shouldn't have rust or any other reason to need new studs. Just removing the nuts and bolts should be ok with some oil. I might've made it that far dry, I don't remember, but removing the studs is where shit tends to go...

So clean. Are you thinking of rolling the fenders or is that a bit too much for a daily?

I'm pretty sure nothing mechanical has changed. Did you get snow today? I was not ready for this shit.

If you want reassurance just browse this sub-forum. There are lots of people on 17" for various reasons. If in doubt, bolt the bare wheel on the front and check the clearance. https://www.integraforums.com/forum/threads/anyone-else-went-to-17-inch-wheels.52441/

On a new car? Not buying it. If they'd left the studs alone that new DP would've bolted up just fine and OP would've been back on the road long ago. Later on when things are old and rusty is when you should have to fight with exhaust studs.

Man, fuck those studs. Ti in that application doesn't offer any improvements outside the vendor's profits. I too learned the hard way that there's absolutely no reason to swap them out, and didn't have the luxury of a machine shop to get the piece out. Hopefully you can get this fixed because...

If you want to diy, a little contact adhesive or super glue might work, but this should be fixed under warranty.

Is this a hi-fi reference?

Probably the steering column lock releasing a bit of pre-load is what's causing the wiggle you're describing. If I was to guess, you pull on the wheel to get in and out, causing the column lock to engage. Then when you unlock the column that energy, stored by the rubber of the tires, is...

I wasn't too clear here, but I 'm only recommending you do the rear bar. From what I've read about the front, you have to remove the subframe to get access to it.

No they're not needed. However, while you're under there you'd might as well upgrade the stabilizer bar and end links. Adjustable isn't necessary for street use, so most people upgrade to end links out of the accord, which are aluminum over the stock plastic.

I never understood why they don't put a service hatch on top.

The nice thing about ktuner is that you can choose to run on map 1 by default and switch to a higher map with the cruise control buttons at any time. Most of my time is spent on map 1. I haven't heard of these cars having IAT problems quite like that. I only did an intercooler because I...