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A block heater will warm the coolant slightly but doesn't do anything for the oil. They're for places where you will seriously have a hard time starting without one, like regularly -40 and below.

Modern cars go into limp mode for a variety of reasons. The "symptoms" listed are all consequences of going into limp mode. Because your stang went limp over its clutch doesn't mean that's the only thing that will trigger it, especially on a completely unrelated car.

Don't replace the studs unless you have to. A new car in Florida shouldn't have rust or any other reason to need new studs. Just removing the nuts and bolts should be ok with some oil. I might've made it that far dry, I don't remember, but removing the studs is where shit tends to go...

So clean. Are you thinking of rolling the fenders or is that a bit too much for a daily?

I'm pretty sure nothing mechanical has changed. Did you get snow today? I was not ready for this shit.

If you want reassurance just browse this sub-forum. There are lots of people on 17" for various reasons. If in doubt, bolt the bare wheel on the front and check the clearance. https://www.integraforums.com/forum/threads/anyone-else-went-to-17-inch-wheels.52441/

On a new car? Not buying it. If they'd left the studs alone that new DP would've bolted up just fine and OP would've been back on the road long ago. Later on when things are old and rusty is when you should have to fight with exhaust studs.

Man, fuck those studs. Ti in that application doesn't offer any improvements outside the vendor's profits. I too learned the hard way that there's absolutely no reason to swap them out, and didn't have the luxury of a machine shop to get the piece out. Hopefully you can get this fixed because...

If you want to diy, a little contact adhesive or super glue might work, but this should be fixed under warranty.

Is this a hi-fi reference?

Probably the steering column lock releasing a bit of pre-load is what's causing the wiggle you're describing. If I was to guess, you pull on the wheel to get in and out, causing the column lock to engage. Then when you unlock the column that energy, stored by the rubber of the tires, is...

I wasn't too clear here, but I 'm only recommending you do the rear bar. From what I've read about the front, you have to remove the subframe to get access to it.

No they're not needed. However, while you're under there you'd might as well upgrade the stabilizer bar and end links. Adjustable isn't necessary for street use, so most people upgrade to end links out of the accord, which are aluminum over the stock plastic.

I never understood why they don't put a service hatch on top.

The nice thing about ktuner is that you can choose to run on map 1 by default and switch to a higher map with the cruise control buttons at any time. Most of my time is spent on map 1. I haven't heard of these cars having IAT problems quite like that. I only did an intercooler because I...

Yeah we've all heard your story, but for those who haven't maybe you can share another excerpt from your book. VW managed to fit a bigger tank in the Golf R (also not a sports car) along with a rear diff. I'm simply laughing at the idea that Acura did anything more than parts bin engineering...

It's a great car for a dolled up civic, but there are too many doors 🤔 and the power goes to the wrong wheels. 🥱 Y'know, basic sports car stuff. 🥰

Lol what? I'll bet any money it's the same part as every other civic. Keep thinking it's a sports car though, or that any of the design decisions are for weight. More like value engineering.

If there's no CEL or code for this then they're making shit up. Pretty bold to do it as soon as 6400.

Slap in some ARP head studs and you're good. I think the bigger, heavier vehicles had more problems, the accords and CRVs.