Just don't pretend it's something it's not.
It's a step on the spectrum towards having the car do 100% of the driving for you, and it replaces driver involvement.
If you're arguing to the contrary, you're just doing mental gymnastics to cope.
BuT iTs bEtTeR aT dOiNg iT tHaN yOu WiLL eVeR bE -...
By this logic, DCT is god-tier.
Auto rev-match is there to help you do something you're not good enough to do yourself. You can argue whichever way you want about it, and cope however you need to, but the reality is that it's one step removed from having an automated clutch pedal, and two...
I actively tried to feel a difference, and I can't really say that there's one for sure. So that's how minimal the difference is with vibrations, if there is one. I actually think that Honda did this to further nerf the clutch to protect against the lowest common denominator rather than for...
They are intended to stop novice or abusive drivers (but I repeat myself) from causing damage to warrantied parts.
They do this by making the driving experience much worse for experienced drivers.
The process is reversible, I would highly recommend buying a spare clutch slave cylinder and...
Indeed, I just posted a how-to on this yesterday.
Regarding rev-hang in general, there are a few ways to drive "around" it.
One thing to be aware of is that your car has a sensor on the clutch pedal that tells it when the pedal is all the way to the floor. On some cars at least, this sensor...
About six months ago, I did the clutch delay valve (CDV) delete and the clutch master cylinder damper (CMC damper) delete at the same time on my Integra Type S. If you have a non DE5 such as an A-Spec, I'm not sure if your car has the same CMC damper, but it definitely has the CDV and the steps...
The face of the Type S is pretty spot-on, IMO.
Car makers are beholden to the almighty Gantt chart though, and any time they've got a good thing going, they also (necessarily) have a plan to destroy it. Unless you're the immortal Chevrolet Express van.
I put the odds at 5:1 that most of us...
I mean it's not necessarily overkill if you're tracking it.
If you aren't tracking the car, I'd probably just run one weight all year long and extend that interval.
It seems like the taper actually goes the wrong direction. There's plenty of slack in the even gears and no slack at all in the odd ones. I wonder if flipping it around will even it out.
Ordered a gallon of this last night:
I am happy with the performance of the OEM Honda fluid in cold...
If you're going to push the offset out 15mm, do it on a summer set instead of a winter one.
Keep the winter road grime and salt away from the side of the car as much as you can.
My 18" setup:
https://www.integraforums.com/forum/threads/winter-wheels-bbs-sr-18x8-44.58346/
@MoppyChoppy 's 18" setup, plus some good info on selecting a tire width:
https://www.integraforums.com/forum/threads/09-tl-wheels-fit-winter-setup.57081/
There are some other 18x8 or 18x8.5 wheels...
The turbo system on this car is one of the least-pleasant-sounding ones I've ever had.
In particular, it makes goofy noises when trying to drive steady-state (neither accel nor decel) around 3000RPM.
That being said, share a video and we'll see if it sounds off. Just upload it unlisted to...
Well I figure if I'm going to have to remove the boot from the black plastic bracket at the base, I may as well experiment with turning it around. If I get time this weekend I may try it out.
I installed an Acuity boot collar, so it's much easier to remove now.
I think the max height is too high for my taste. I put it where I wanted it initially, and after the console went back in, I figured out I would have to drop it another 1/2 or 3/4 inch in order to not have the boot stretched out tight in first gear.
The proportions of the OEM boot seem weird...