What did you do to your Integra Type S today? 🙋🏻‍♂️

[optronix]

I was on my winter/All season tire (DWS06+) setup on stock wheels at the time and was waiting on my wheels then. I have my Volk wheels with PS4S on and track wheels with 200tw tires now.

Must be NorCal or something... I'd skip the all seasons entirely if I was in pretty much any part of California.

Is it just me who hates all seasons? It seems like a lot of folks don't seem to be super bothered by them. I notice literally every time I turn the wheel. It's just a "slimy" feeling that makes my skin crawl, and literally deters me from driving it in the winter months. Winters I'm sure would have to be worse... and some of you heathens are even considering mounting 225s on 8" wheels... I guess if you just have to routinely drive in blizzard conditions, but otherwise it's pretty much nonsensical and like nails on a chalkboard to me and I'll continue to beat that horse until I get bored of it.

Sadly now that I've switched to RT660+ I'll be switching to all seasons earlier than I would have. I'm thinking probably late October through early April, I used to do mid-November through mid-March.

Eventually I'll probably go to a dedicated track set and utilize PS4S for the street in the summer as they really are the best option available for 7/10ths and below driving (which even 7/10ths no one should really be doing on the street anyway...), but for now my laziness and budget (and space) won't permit it and I'm a two-tire guy.

Review for the RT660s coming after this weekend's autocross results. Hopefully I'll get a chance to drive in rain too because so far the type of driving I've been doing all I've really noticed is more noise and rocks being kicked up.

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[Victorofhavoc]

I jacked up my car yesterday to install a powerflex rmm insert. I didn't want a full arm, so this is a decent compromise. Shifts are much more positive, but vibrations the first 20 miles when driving without engaging the clutch in 1st and reverse are rough. I still need to crack it loose and retighten with the engine running. The power on is a lot more positive though, and the 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 shift is MUCH better.

On the way to the mount I had to remove the undershield. Dealership was the last one to change my oil and only one to ever lift my car... Can anyone guess WHY I was getting horrible rattles at around 3k rpm?

I'm pretty done with the dealer at this point.

 

[notorious9i6]

butt dyno says the infinity design is slightly faster and less heat soaky.
Not worth the $$$ but it's pretty.

 

[PRDE5]

Diy my EPS recall, and rotated my tires

 

[TacoShop]

butt dyno says the infinity design is slightly faster and less heat soaky.
Not worth the $$$ but it's pretty.

How's the difference in noise?

 

[notorious9i6]

How's the difference in noise?

PRL HVI sounds way better.

infinity sounds like a stock intake system with a filter.

 

[TacoShop]

PRL HVI sounds way better.

infinity sounds like a stock intake system with a filter.

Kind of a bummer. I really like the Infinity, but definitely want the noise!

 

[optronix]

I finally got to experience the might and majesty of 200 treadwear tires in a motorsports setting. Also a decent amount of driving around town and a couple 2+ hour commutes.

I bought some Falken RT660+ and had them installed last week. First of all, if you're not doing at least track-adjacent stuff I can't realistically recommend 200 treadwear tires in the first place, the OEM PS4S are arguably just as good in basically any street setting and there are plenty of other options for "Performance Summer" i.e., 300 TW tires out there and the compromises won't offset any added benefit on the street IMHO.

Also I landed on the Falkens because I'm still rocking the 19s, and there aren't a whole lot of options out there in OEM-ish sizes. It's basically Cup2 and Nankang CRSv2 if you want to stay at 265, or these if you're ok "upgrading" to 275. But what pushed me towards the Falkens was my usage; I'm like 90/10 autocross/track so the Falkens are just a better fit for autocross. Otherwise I would and very nearly did buy the Nankang, I've heard very very good things about the newer V2 version but they're more of a track tire i.e., take longer to get heat in them. Plus the Falkens have revised this tire recently as well with the RT660+, I think this year. Might have been last but- my point is it was recent and they're an improvement over the OG RT660 according to many reputable sources.

More on those compromises i.e., "the bad"-

I've noticed quite a few interesting things I wasn't quite expecting and am curious to hear others' thoughts as well- but there are some new noises to get used to. I was expecting more general road noise, and I got it- there are two spots in particular I notice a substantial increase in noise; around 35-40 mph and again from 75-80. Just a bit more "gyration", or whirring noise if that makes sense? Overall not too bad unless you were expecting them to be as quiet as PS4S.

But the "new" noises are from running over certain sections of road, in particular tar patches from the half-assed road repair around here. Granted these are pretty hot days I've been driving in, but it literally sounds like the tires are sticking to the tar. I never noticed anything like that with any other tire, and perhaps it was just because the tires were brand new? In any case, nothing overly concerning but I did have a couple times I was wondering WTF is that noise until I noticed the correlation with lines of tar in the asphalt. Weird.

Also WAY WAY WAY more rocks getting kicked up, like all the time. It's crazy.

Also I think they may be rubbing. First things first I'm on Eibach Prokit springs and EVS lower ball joints set at -3.5 degrees front camber, so context is important here... and I've noticed weird noises coming from my front suspension for a while now, predating March when I did the ball joints so this could just be a "my car" thing... but turning left at or near full lock and I can hear something. Doesn't sound atrocious and I'm not frequently at or near full lock so I'm not too concerned, but tires aren't cheap and part of the reason I'm on these now is that the left front tire got chewed up on the very inner edge and it was only the left front tire. The rest of the tread is more or less fine. I need to get a second opinion on my alignment settings but it's enough for me to keep an eye out, and at a minimum I'll be rotating these front-back after every event, and reverse-mounting them after every ~4 events. If I go through a set too quickly clearly something is pretty wrong...

Also one other thing I'll mention is I was a bit concerned how this thing would drive in the rain, with 200 TW being more prone to hydroplaning according to the internet and also I've got the added front camber which theorycrafters would suggest that would have an impact too. Nothing really to report here though. I got caught in some pretty solid downpour on my drive home from a trip from a customer site and can't really say I noticed much if anything of a difference. A good mix of moderate highway and around town driving, and I think it's fine at least with good treadwear. Probably a completely different story if they get worn down but that's true of any tire. I'll keep an eye on it.

So anyway. Onto "the good"- and this won't take nearly as long.

They're night and day for autocross. HOLY SHIT. I may have mentioned but I have never in all my many, many cars had a car with 200 TW tires on it out at any sort of motorsport event before today, and now I can't see ever going back. I still probably have a bit to play with as far as tire pressure and just repetitions getting more familiar with pushing the car harder, because I very very clearly can push the car WAY harder. There were certain obvious spots on today's course where I knew I would have been fighting understeer, and I got literally none of that (at least not until the later runs when I just got ham-fisted and drove poorly). My times were pretty reflective too, I've been going out with this group for a while now and am familiar with the cars and drivers that freqent these events, and I was finishing ahead or with cars that routinely put me to shame in the past. No, I still can't compete with the Porsche GT cars also on sticky tires- but I'm not being actively held back anymore, and that's the whole damn point.

In any case, I think where my head is at is these are an absolute necessity for my motorsports stuff, but I do think I'd prefer to have PS4S on the car on the street. I'll probably shift to swapping them out pre-event in the future, but I'm going to need another set of wheels for that, probably in 18s...

This hobby is expensive.

 

[optronix]

Kind of a bummer. I really like the Infinity, but definitely want the noise!

I can't honestly comment on the noise vs the PRL... I don't think many can, as finding folks like our guy here in this thread who has experienced both is pretty hard to come by... I've never heard the PRL in-car (a guy had one in an FL5 today but clearly didn't notice anything outside the car...) so I can't put forth any sort of argument against it sounding better.

But that being said, I'm pretty damn fond of the noise of my Infinity Design. I can't really notice much in the sense of more "induction noise" like you'd get for example in a naturally aspirated car... but there are WAY more pronounced turbo noises that do liven up the overall experience.

Plus yes, I didn't notice a damn thing when I changed the exhaust, but the intake was an obvious and substantial increase in power.

 

[Unity Performance]

First local with the Infinity Design popped by the other day so I took this clip. I'd say the sound is pretty even on the outside with PRL.

I didn't get a chance to go for a drive, but pretty soon my own FL5 will be here, and I'll go for the Infinity Design setup as well, so we can compare with our shop DE5 that's equipped with the PRL setup.

Similarly, I had the Eventuri Inlet and Intake first on my FK8, then the PRL Race HVI and Inlet afterwards. Eventuri was noticeably louder

 

[StingertimeNC]

I finally got to experience the might and majesty of 200 treadwear tires in a motorsports setting. Also a decent amount of driving around town and a couple 2+ hour commutes.

I bought some Falken RT660+ and had them installed last week. First of all, if you're not doing at least track-adjacent stuff I can't realistically recommend 200 treadwear tires in the first place, the OEM PS4S are arguably just as good in basically any street setting and there are plenty of other options for "Performance Summer" i.e., 300 TW tires out there and the compromises won't offset any added benefit on the street IMHO.

Also I landed on the Falkens because I'm still rocking the 19s, and there aren't a whole lot of options out there in OEM-ish sizes. It's basically Cup2 and Nankang CRSv2 if you want to stay at 265, or these if you're ok "upgrading" to 275. But what pushed me towards the Falkens was my usage; I'm like 90/10 autocross/track so the Falkens are just a better fit for autocross. Otherwise I would and very nearly did buy the Nankang, I've heard very very good things about the newer V2 version but they're more of a track tire i.e., take longer to get heat in them. Plus the Falkens have revised this tire recently as well with the RT660+, I think this year. Might have been last but- my point is it was recent and they're an improvement over the OG RT660 according to many reputable sources.

More on those compromises i.e., "the bad"-

I've noticed quite a few interesting things I wasn't quite expecting and am curious to hear others' thoughts as well- but there are some new noises to get used to. I was expecting more general road noise, and I got it- there are two spots in particular I notice a substantial increase in noise; around 35-40 mph and again from 75-80. Just a bit more "gyration", or whirring noise if that makes sense? Overall not too bad unless you were expecting them to be as quiet as PS4S.

But the "new" noises are from running over certain sections of road, in particular tar patches from the half-assed road repair around here. Granted these are pretty hot days I've been driving in, but it literally sounds like the tires are sticking to the tar. I never noticed anything like that with any other tire, and perhaps it was just because the tires were brand new? In any case, nothing overly concerning but I did have a couple times I was wondering WTF is that noise until I noticed the correlation with lines of tar in the asphalt. Weird.

Also WAY WAY WAY more rocks getting kicked up, like all the time. It's crazy.

Also I think they may be rubbing. First things first I'm on Eibach Prokit springs and EVS lower ball joints set at -3.5 degrees front camber, so context is important here... and I've noticed weird noises coming from my front suspension for a while now, predating March when I did the ball joints so this could just be a "my car" thing... but turning left at or near full lock and I can hear something. Doesn't sound atrocious and I'm not frequently at or near full lock so I'm not too concerned, but tires aren't cheap and part of the reason I'm on these now is that the left front tire got chewed up on the very inner edge and it was only the left front tire. The rest of the tread is more or less fine. I need to get a second opinion on my alignment settings but it's enough for me to keep an eye out, and at a minimum I'll be rotating these front-back after every event, and reverse-mounting them after every ~4 events. If I go through a set too quickly clearly something is pretty wrong...

Also one other thing I'll mention is I was a bit concerned how this thing would drive in the rain, with 200 TW being more prone to hydroplaning according to the internet and also I've got the added front camber which theorycrafters would suggest that would have an impact too. Nothing really to report here though. I got caught in some pretty solid downpour on my drive home from a trip from a customer site and can't really say I noticed much if anything of a difference. A good mix of moderate highway and around town driving, and I think it's fine at least with good treadwear. Probably a completely different story if they get worn down but that's true of any tire. I'll keep an eye on it.

So anyway. Onto "the good"- and this won't take nearly as long.

They're night and day for autocross. HOLY SHIT. I may have mentioned but I have never in all my many, many cars had a car with 200 TW tires on it out at any sort of motorsport event before today, and now I can't see ever going back. I still probably have a bit to play with as far as tire pressure and just repetitions getting more familiar with pushing the car harder, because I very very clearly can push the car WAY harder. There were certain obvious spots on today's course where I knew I would have been fighting understeer, and I got literally none of that (at least not until the later runs when I just got ham-fisted and drove poorly). My times were pretty reflective too, I've been going out with this group for a while now and am familiar with the cars and drivers that freqent these events, and I was finishing ahead or with cars that routinely put me to shame in the past. No, I still can't compete with the Porsche GT cars also on sticky tires- but I'm not being actively held back anymore, and that's the whole damn point.

In any case, I think where my head is at is these are an absolute necessity for my motorsports stuff, but I do think I'd prefer to have PS4S on the car on the street. I'll probably shift to swapping them out pre-event in the future, but I'm going to need another set of wheels for that, probably in 18s...

This hobby is expensive.

Cool! I'm getting the Kuhmo V730's in a few weeks, 275/35, 18". Almost exactly the same outer diameter to my current setup so I'm not expecting any rubbing. Weird that you're having an issue with that. Let us know what you find out.

Can't wait to experience them at the track!!

 

[kjechel]

Diy my EPS recall, and rotated my tires

I didn't realize DIY was an option. I'd MUCH prefer DIY vs. taking to a dealer. How do I get the kit & instructions? And how does this get recorded in the official service records so it shows as having been completed in Carfax, etc.?

 

[Victorofhavoc]

I finally got to experience the might and majesty of 200 treadwear tires in a motorsports setting. Also a decent amount of driving around town and a couple 2+ hour commutes.

I bought some Falken RT660+ and had them installed last week. First of all, if you're not doing at least track-adjacent stuff I can't realistically recommend 200 treadwear tires in the first place, the OEM PS4S are arguably just as good in basically any street setting and there are plenty of other options for "Performance Summer" i.e., 300 TW tires out there and the compromises won't offset any added benefit on the street IMHO.

Also I landed on the Falkens because I'm still rocking the 19s, and there aren't a whole lot of options out there in OEM-ish sizes. It's basically Cup2 and Nankang CRSv2 if you want to stay at 265, or these if you're ok "upgrading" to 275. But what pushed me towards the Falkens was my usage; I'm like 90/10 autocross/track so the Falkens are just a better fit for autocross. Otherwise I would and very nearly did buy the Nankang, I've heard very very good things about the newer V2 version but they're more of a track tire i.e., take longer to get heat in them. Plus the Falkens have revised this tire recently as well with the RT660+, I think this year. Might have been last but- my point is it was recent and they're an improvement over the OG RT660 according to many reputable sources.

More on those compromises i.e., "the bad"-

I've noticed quite a few interesting things I wasn't quite expecting and am curious to hear others' thoughts as well- but there are some new noises to get used to. I was expecting more general road noise, and I got it- there are two spots in particular I notice a substantial increase in noise; around 35-40 mph and again from 75-80. Just a bit more "gyration", or whirring noise if that makes sense? Overall not too bad unless you were expecting them to be as quiet as PS4S.

But the "new" noises are from running over certain sections of road, in particular tar patches from the half-assed road repair around here. Granted these are pretty hot days I've been driving in, but it literally sounds like the tires are sticking to the tar. I never noticed anything like that with any other tire, and perhaps it was just because the tires were brand new? In any case, nothing overly concerning but I did have a couple times I was wondering WTF is that noise until I noticed the correlation with lines of tar in the asphalt. Weird.

Also WAY WAY WAY more rocks getting kicked up, like all the time. It's crazy.

Also I think they may be rubbing. First things first I'm on Eibach Prokit springs and EVS lower ball joints set at -3.5 degrees front camber, so context is important here... and I've noticed weird noises coming from my front suspension for a while now, predating March when I did the ball joints so this could just be a "my car" thing... but turning left at or near full lock and I can hear something. Doesn't sound atrocious and I'm not frequently at or near full lock so I'm not too concerned, but tires aren't cheap and part of the reason I'm on these now is that the left front tire got chewed up on the very inner edge and it was only the left front tire. The rest of the tread is more or less fine. I need to get a second opinion on my alignment settings but it's enough for me to keep an eye out, and at a minimum I'll be rotating these front-back after every event, and reverse-mounting them after every ~4 events. If I go through a set too quickly clearly something is pretty wrong...

Also one other thing I'll mention is I was a bit concerned how this thing would drive in the rain, with 200 TW being more prone to hydroplaning according to the internet and also I've got the added front camber which theorycrafters would suggest that would have an impact too. Nothing really to report here though. I got caught in some pretty solid downpour on my drive home from a trip from a customer site and can't really say I noticed much if anything of a difference. A good mix of moderate highway and around town driving, and I think it's fine at least with good treadwear. Probably a completely different story if they get worn down but that's true of any tire. I'll keep an eye on it.

So anyway. Onto "the good"- and this won't take nearly as long.

They're night and day for autocross. HOLY SHIT. I may have mentioned but I have never in all my many, many cars had a car with 200 TW tires on it out at any sort of motorsport event before today, and now I can't see ever going back. I still probably have a bit to play with as far as tire pressure and just repetitions getting more familiar with pushing the car harder, because I very very clearly can push the car WAY harder. There were certain obvious spots on today's course where I knew I would have been fighting understeer, and I got literally none of that (at least not until the later runs when I just got ham-fisted and drove poorly). My times were pretty reflective too, I've been going out with this group for a while now and am familiar with the cars and drivers that freqent these events, and I was finishing ahead or with cars that routinely put me to shame in the past. No, I still can't compete with the Porsche GT cars also on sticky tires- but I'm not being actively held back anymore, and that's the whole damn point.

In any case, I think where my head is at is these are an absolute necessity for my motorsports stuff, but I do think I'd prefer to have PS4S on the car on the street. I'll probably shift to swapping them out pre-event in the future, but I'm going to need another set of wheels for that, probably in 18s...

This hobby is expensive.

As those falken wear, they're going to get 50-70% louder. That's often true for 200tw tire. Some are better than others but they all get much louder over time.

The extra noises you hear from "sticking" to things are exactly that. Even paint on a hot asphalt road you can hear as a "pft, pft, pft" if you listen carefully. These types of tires tend to sit more square and have larger sidewall blocks. That combined with the extra stickiness will cause some of that "road rumble" and it becomes especially apparent on moderately worn or perfectly smooth roads. The ps4s (especially these dt1) are fairly rounded and narrow on tread. This is great for road, but not desirable for maximum lateral grip. The magic of the ps4s is all in the rib compound and sidewall.

As the falken wear in you'll also notice dramatic dropoffs in wet performance. Where the Michelin are okay at 5/32nds, the falken will be skates. This is true for any tire with generally less tread, so any 200tw really.

The bump in traction and balance you feel is awesome isn't it!?? Going to a slick is an even bigger jump. It's why I discourage newer drivers from going straight to slicks as soon as they get closer to intermediate level. These newer 200tw tires are as fast on lap 2 and 3 as most slicks are... It's just the consistency that's tough to match when you add tread to a tire.

18s are the way to go!

Speaking of... I'm going back and forth with the wife right now, but I may need a 3rd seat in the back row soon so the Integra might (probably will) go. I'll have some 18s and other things up for sale in the near future.


Also as an aside to anyone who has followed all the clicky steering wheel issues... Mine came back with a vengeance! It rattles horribly now and I can't even cover it up with music when the windows are up. It might be the airbag, so I'll pull that soon out of curiosity. The dealer thinks it's plastic trim, but certainly doesn't sound plastic... It sounds metallic against plastic.

 

[MR_O’s_DE5]

Finally installed my intake/inlet pipe

 

[PRDE5]

I didn't realize DIY was an option. I'd MUCH prefer DIY vs. taking to a dealer. How do I get the kit & instructions? And how does this get recorded in the official service records so it shows as having been completed in Carfax, etc.?

Reference

I didn't realize DIY was an option. I'd MUCH prefer DIY vs. taking to a dealer. How do I get the kit & instructions? And how does this get recorded in the official service records so it shows as having been completed in Carfax, etc.?

Reference Acura TSB 24-054
http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/B24-054.PDF
here you will find all the part numbers of the TSB kit and the plug wrench you will need. The rest of the tools I got on Etsy by envision 3D auto. As far as it getting recorded, Im not concerned about it, im just happy that i know it was completed the right way, and my car didn’t get damaged in any way. I also hate dealing with the dealer BS, and the amount of time they would take. Also on YouTube look for TE videos, he is tech at a Honda dealer . He’s recorded himself doing this TSB on a bunch of Hondas.

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