What did you do to your Integra Type S today? 🙋🏻‍♂️

[optronix]

You weren’t even part of the convo and you just keep needing to be that asshole.

Camber can’t be adjusted on this car without adding/swapping certain components. This is simply how it was with the out of the box 1inch drop from RSR. Go be a dick elsewhere. You are truly insufferable, and I’m guessing this isn’t the first time you’ve heard that.

I take particular delight in annoying people who've announced they've put me on their ignore list.

I also recall I mentioned this aspect of non-adjustable camber - to you directly in fact. It was another incident you started your petulant name-calling.

This happened to be well before you up and decided to do this RSR thing. I believe you were asking about Eibachs at the time?

So knowing full well you couldn't adjust camber you decided to do coilovers and just... left them like that?

Maybe you should stop calling people "toxic pieces of trash" and start paying more attention when people try to help.

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[Victorofhavoc]

Question

from my understanding. Dual axis gains camber in turns that add compression (excuse my not knowing the proper terminology. I licked the side of a Newport and rolled it in coke).

if so. Are there gains to be had by adding more neg camber?

thnx if you can explain like I smoked too much coke and am now chugging beer to slow my heart down.

That's correct that the dual axis design does gain some negative camber under compression, to a point. There's a range where it starts to gain positive again. That range is higher up than a traditional mcstrut.

Your camber should be based on the tire your run and your wear. If tire a grips at 1g laterally but tire b grips 20% harder to deliver 1.2g, tire b would need more neg camber since the chassis is being stressed harder and rolling more (if you're using it).

For the oem ps4s that are both a stiff sidewall for street and too soft for track, the factory alignment range is correct.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

That's correct that the dual axis design does gain some negative camber under compression, to a point. There's a range where it starts to gain positive again. That range is higher up than a traditional mcstrut.

Your camber should be based on the tire your run and your wear. If tire a grips at 1g laterally but tire b grips 20% harder to deliver 1.2g, tire b would need more neg camber since the chassis is being stressed harder and rolling more (if you're using it).

For the oem ps4s that are both a stiff sidewall for street and too soft for track, the factory alignment range is correct.

Also, I had Claude draw a camber curve for each to illustrate. 0mm on x axis is where we start. Going 20mm right (compressing) you can see we gain and then start to lose negative. This is also precisely why lowering the car increases some neg camber, but loading up makes it feel more understeery than stock).

Edit: and yes, this means ANY lowering is a performance detractor without doing other things to correct the negative impact. If you lower 1", you've effectively eliminated the biggest benefit that this design has over standard mcstrut.

 

[UWU-mancer]

That's correct that the dual axis design does gain some negative camber under compression, to a point. There's a range where it starts to gain positive again. That range is higher up than a traditional mcstrut.

Your camber should be based on the tire your run and your wear. If tire a grips at 1g laterally but tire b grips 20% harder to deliver 1.2g, tire b would need more neg camber since the chassis is being stressed harder and rolling more (if you're using it).

For the oem ps4s that are both a stiff sidewall for street and too soft for track, the factory alignment range is correct.

Wow I had no idea. Thanks for breaking that down

 

[UWU-mancer]

Also, I had Claude draw a camber curve for each to illustrate. 0mm on x axis is where we start. Going 20mm right (compressing) you can see we gain and then start to lose negative. This is also precisely why lowering the car increases some neg camber, but loading up makes it feel more understeery than stock).

Edit: and yes, this means ANY lowering is a performance detractor without doing other things to correct the negative impact. If you lower 1", you've effectively eliminated the biggest benefit that this design has over standard mcstrut.

Thanks!

 

[whtciv2k]

Question

from my understanding. Dual axis gains camber in turns that add compression (excuse my not knowing the proper terminology. I licked the side of a Newport and rolled it in coke).

if so. Are there gains to be had by adding more neg camber?

thnx if you can explain like I smoked too much coke and am now chugging beer to slow my heart down.

. Honestly, I’m not sure what all of the benefits/negatives are. It just can’t be adjusted without getting camber arms or adjustable ball joints or adjustable top hats. It doesn’t appear to affect day to day street driving, it doesn’t look like I’m stanced or anything, and it’s not my daily, so I’m not in a rush to do anything about it.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Also, I had Claude draw a camber curve for each to illustrate. 0mm on x axis is where we start. Going 20mm right (compressing) you can see we gain and then start to lose negative. This is also precisely why lowering the car increases some neg camber, but loading up makes it feel more understeery than stock).

Edit: and yes, this means ANY lowering is a performance detractor without doing other things to correct the negative impact. If you lower 1", you've effectively eliminated the biggest benefit that this design has over standard mcstrut.

This is just fun now... I had it add what happens when you drop an inch

The Honda version does survive a drop better than a standard mcstrut!! That is quite an admirable feat given then context of how it's packaged.

 

[UWU-mancer]

OMG I thought I was the only one that ever did this (allegedly)

Red type s mf’s know how to party!

 

[gohan408]

PRL TURBO INLET INSTALLED

 

[bigfatflip]

Swapped out for Motul RBF600 today. Went ahead and put my summer wheels/tires (stockers) back on in preparation for Wake the Dragon next weekend.

Just shy of 15k miles, just over 1 year of ownership. Motive bleeder made it super easy!

Do you happen to know which adapter cap you need for the Motive bleeder?

 

[Old_Dad_Actual]

Do you happen to know which adapter cap you need for the Motive bleeder?

I got the CTA Tools 7030 cap from Amazon. I was able to remove the hose from the cap that came with the Motive and cram it onto the CTA cap with a hose clamp to hold it tight. The cap is a pain to get on and off the MC (double o-rings), but honestly that's what you want for a cap that'll be pressurized. It's definitely better than the ones I've seen where people are using all kinds of clamps and stuff to hold the cap on and maintain pressure. The whole set up cost me less than $100, and I'm hoping that the hoses and stuff will all last for at least a couple more years of brake fluid changes.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

I got the CTA Tools 7030 cap from Amazon. I was able to remove the hose from the cap that came with the Motive and cram it onto the CTA cap with a hose clamp to hold it tight. The cap is a pain to get on and off the MC (double o-rings), but honestly that's what you want for a cap that'll be pressurized. It's definitely better than the ones I've seen where people are using all kinds of clamps and stuff to hold the cap on and maintain pressure. The whole set up cost me less than $100, and I'm hoping that the hoses and stuff will all last for at least a couple more years of brake fluid changes.

Similar setup here. I went and bought some extra hose at home depot and a couple swivel barb attachments to make life a tiny bit easier.

I do quick bleeds before every track event and I've used this same motive bottle for almost 9 years now, across many vehicles. Still works great and still original hoses.

The key for me has been to avoid putting fluid in the bottle and just pull it off the MC to add fluid as necessary. No fluid in the bottle means no seals or hoses deteriorating.

 

[Old_Dad_Actual]

Similar setup here. I went and bought some extra hose at home depot and a couple swivel barb attachments to make life a tiny bit easier.

I do quick bleeds before every track event and I've used this same motive bottle for almost 9 years now, across many vehicles. Still works great and still original hoses.

The key for me has been to avoid putting fluid in the bottle and just pull it off the MC to add fluid as necessary. No fluid in the bottle means no seals or hoses deteriorating.

I may use that approach when I just do a bleed...but a full flush would have been a pain in the ass pulling the cap off the MC every time. Or, maybe I'm just lazy.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

I may use that approach when I just do a bleed...but a full flush would have been a pain in the ass pulling the cap off the MC every time. Or, maybe I'm just lazy.

Lol, it all depends on method and your tolerance for time on it! I do agree a good bleed takes less fluid and time compared to a heavy flush. I rarely have to do huge flushes.

I use a metal syringe from target to suck the fluid out of Mc and top off with fresh fluid. Pressure up, and bleed from furthest until fresh fluid flows. Usually I get about 1/2 way through the reservoir before fresh fluid is coming out. I then finish up the corner, top off fluid, and the next three wheels can usually be done in one go.

I've swapped ate amber and blue before to track it visually, and it's been a very reliable method overall. Only with really bad fluid or with previously boiled fluid are there any major issues where a heavier flush is needed.

 

[Krazydan19]

Austin north Acura just posted this. Is the new owner in here ?

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