What did you do to your Integra Type S today? 🙋🏻‍♂️

[dl8468]

19x9.5 +45 on stock tires

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[ABPDE5]

They’re easy to take off. You can pry using just your hands closest to the windshield. There’s two clips and one of them is a one time use only. Do not take off the A-pillar unless you have the replacement clip.

Once you pop the clips, you pull up gently and the A-pillar will slide off.

Reinstalled my newly upholstered armrest and sun visors.

Thank you! Good thing I asked... I for sure would have ripped those off without a spare set of clips

 

[TwinSkrullDesign]

Thank you! Good thing I asked... I for sure would have ripped those off without a spare set of clips

This is a good video that explains the clip I’m referring to.

 

[MR_O’s_DE5]

Going to be a busy weekend

 

[ashmostro]

Looks like a fun time! Happy wrenching.

 

[Type-Slow]

Installed the PRL RMM tonight. It adds a little vibration through the pedals, but it's minor. The 1-2 shift is smoother; the car has less wheel hop, and it has eliminated that "rubber-band" feeling when you first get on the throttle.

I did struggle to torque down the horizontal bolt. You need a crowsfoot if you don't remove the front pipe, and it wants to deflect. It might be easier if you have a lift and lots of clearance, but on jack stands with limited room, it was hard to keep the wrench from deflecting. I couldn't quite get it to torque spec for fear of rounding off the bolt.

I had the same experience with getting the front bolt tightened. I just used a long box wrench and calibrated elbow.
The RMM is a great, cheap upgrade.

 

[MR_O’s_DE5]

Looks like a fun time! Happy wrenching.

Well unfortunately not a happy ending, all was well until the downpipe stud snapped off in the turbo… hopefully my mechanic can extract it otherwise the turbo will be coming off..

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Well unfortunately not a happy ending, all was well until the downpipe stud snapped off in the turbo… hopefully my mechanic can extract it otherwise the turbo will be coming off..

Suuuuck.

Can you use an extractor bit?

 

[MR_O’s_DE5]

Suuuuck.

Can you use an extractor bit?

One of my techs is a guru at extracting bolts, so I will leave it up to him to handle it.

 

[ashmostro]

Shouldn't be a problem. They'll get it out.

 

[MR_O’s_DE5]

Shouldn't be a problem. They'll get it out.

That’s exactly what he said. I have seen him extract recessed broken head bolts on 20 year old engines, this should be a walk in the park.

 

[crepr12]

just curious OEM bolt or aftermarket?...

 

[ashmostro]

Jogon matte carbon interior trim installed. I think I might do the door handle covers too, for continuity. Maybe the steering wheel upper cover too (just the piano black upper half).

 

[ashmostro]

Swapped out my OE clutch slave cylinder for a CDV-deleted slave from JSR Engines. The swap was pretty easy. After removing the airbox, I found that rather than breaking the seal between the soft and hard lines like every DIY video I found advises, it's easier to unbolt the bracket assembly of the soft to hard line fitting (see attached photo with red arrow pointing to the 10mm nut to remove) so that once the slave is unbolted from the transmission it can simply be swung down and then back up through the space previously occupied by the lower airbox assembly.

Then it's just a simple matter of sliding out the retaining clip for the hard line fitting on the slave, and quickly reinstalling the hard line onto the new slave (assuming you went the same route as me and bought a pre-modified slave). I lost maybe two drops of hydraulic fluid in this manner.

As for bleeding, I used a vacuum oil extractor with a smaller hose fitting that was snug enough on the bleed nipple to effectively enable me to bleed the slave without a helper. Took maybe five minutes, including master reservoir refilling and a bit of clutch pedal testing. It was one and done as far as bleeding - super easy system to bleed.

As for change in feel, it's obvious. Rapid clutch-outs results in very fast RPM realignment, whereas before there was a good bit of slip before RPMs settled. Next is a tune to remove the throttle plate rev hang and then the shifting is going to be as close to perfect as it can get for a cable actuated transmission!

 

[TacoShop]

Successfully installed black front A-mark without completely removing bumper

Just wanted to let future DIYers who are thinking of tackling this job that it's possible to do without fully removing the front bumper. All I needed to do was remove the push rivets in the engine bay, and then the push rivets and two screws in each front wheel wells. The bumper can then pop out from the radiator support and from under the headlights to gain some clearance from the top. With some fenagling, you can easily get a hand and a screwdriver of your choice to remove the two screws that secure the A mark. Was quite easy - took maybe 30 minutes of futzing around.

Do take note that the six central push rivets on the top of the bumper cover have metal washers sandwiched between the cover and the chassis mounting point. Make sure not to let these fall out (ask me how I know) as they are not secured by anything other than the rivet. I slid them out and pocketed them for safe keeping until reassembly.

I wish I would've seen this earlier. I just did mine this morning, but mine included illumination as well. I found out the hard way that the guide for the 2024 accessory install doesn't cover everything for the 2025. I dunno if they changed the design or the instructions were incomplete... but it was a pain. Knowing what I know now, I could probably do it without removing the bumper.

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