"Crunchiness" in all gears - normal or not?

[Victorofhavoc]

I heard about the parking brake drama with some of the obd scanners that have the ability of putting the parking brake in maintenance mode. May just skip this and make this the rotary shop’s problem.

Yeah I get that. For me, I need the ability to change them trackside... Otherwise I'm tossing pads that are half used because they won't make it through a weekend. Removing the electric motor is the simplest way to do it, and most reliable ime. I still need to find a crank down that can fit to try it. Might be faster... Maybe

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[UWU-mancer]

Yeah I get that. For me, I need the ability to change them trackside... Otherwise I'm tossing pads that are half used because they won't make it through a weekend. Removing the electric motor is the simplest way to do it, and most reliable ime. I still need to find a crank down that can fit to try it. Might be faster... Maybe

Oh and push shut? That’ll work well.

 

[APBonABP]

Well shit. That’s awesome. Cuz guess what? I too am not an expert in this subject @Victorofhavoc we need an adult!!!!!

Good call, good call!

They are no good for synchros.

Friction modifiers typically reduce friction for auto transmissions and synchros need friction.

You probably won't notice for a few tens of thousands of miles, but then things will get notchy, grindy, and particularly bad when cold. The subaru community was all about mixing fluids for a while and they used to go for 60-100k miles and then suddenly the synchros would lock up. I stupidly was one of the people who ran shitty mixes in cold weather and had to slip the clutch to warm up the fluid to even get it out of first when cold to get to reverse.

I recommend motul mt80 or mt90 depending on your use case.

Thanks! You know you're never allowed to sell this car now that we all depend on you for knowledge, right?

I’m going to try to take a look under the dash at the pedal and see if adjusting it is needed fluid will be due in 20k miles anyways so we shall see after the one and if not, then the other

I've adjusted that pedal more times than I care to count now.

My general advice is to do your adjustments (if any) after the car's been driven at operating temperature for a few minutes, as I've found that the heat causes enough expansion to take up a decent amount of the slack in the clutch pedal, so if you remove all (or most) of the slack from a cold pedal, once at operating temperature you'll end up with a clutch that slips even when you're fully off the pedal.

It sounds obvious but I initially underestimated the difference it makes.

 

[SeanIsElsewhere]

Good call, good call!





Thanks! You know you're never allowed to sell this car now that we all depend on you for knowledge, right?





I've adjusted that pedal more times than I care to count now.

My general advice is to do your adjustments (if any) after the car's been driven at operating temperature for a few minutes, as I've found that the heat causes enough expansion to take up a decent amount of the slack in the clutch pedal, so if you remove all (or most) of the slack from a cold pedal, once at operating temperature you'll end up with a clutch that slips even when you're fully off the pedal.

It sounds obvious but I initially underestimated the difference it makes.

That’s good to know! Didn’t think of that myself.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

That’s good to know! Didn’t think of that myself.

That's also a very good reason to ensure you're fully bleeding the clutch every time you bleed the brakes. The clutch line gets really hot too, and boiled fluid at the clutch acts like boiled fluid at the brake pedal... Engagement sinks way, way down and you can totally lock yourself out of gear.

I have actually done this on track before in another car. Really, really sucks to have to coast around until it cools enough that you can engage and get to pit road.

 

[ABPDE5]

They are no good for synchros.

Friction modifiers typically reduce friction for auto transmissions and synchros need friction.

You probably won't notice for a few tens of thousands of miles, but then things will get notchy, grindy, and particularly bad when cold. The subaru community was all about mixing fluids for a while and they used to go for 60-100k miles and then suddenly the synchros would lock up. I stupidly was one of the people who ran shitty mixes in cold weather and had to slip the clutch to warm up the fluid to even get it out of first when cold to get to reverse.

I recommend motul mt80 or mt90 depending on your use case.

Ugh... looks like I'm swapping my fluid again

MT80/90 are Redline options, though, not Motul? Wouldn't Motylgear be appropriate from Motul?

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Ugh... looks like I'm swapping my fluid again

MT80/90 are Redline options, though, not Motul? Wouldn't Motylgear be appropriate from Motul?

You're correct! My mistake, not sure why I typed that! I used the redline last time and I like redline fluids a lot, they can just get pricey and hard to get. I think the motul equivalent is gear 300 or something, though any of their gl4/gl5 should be good. I would just aim for your temp use case. Don't go thick/heavy if you have cold winters or you don't do much track work. You're just robbing yourself of power for no reason doing that.

 

[DK 24LC ITS]

As for changing the rear brakes it seems like there are 3-4 options. Someone stated you can do something manually with the ebrake to manually put into service mode, but that didn't work for me. I don't have a scan tool, but these are the same style brakes I had on my Legacy and I was able to do those fine by the other 2 methods.

Method 1: pull the back of the motor and use an E11 socket to wind it back. (Counter clockwise from the back).

Method 2: use the brake compressor with the two dowels on them to wind the caliper in (clockwise from the front). Once it bottoms out you can compress the rest of the way if need be. In my legacy that wasn't required, but in this it seemed like it was.

I tried one option on one side and one on the other. Method 2 was much quicker and easier, requires less tooling and less time. You can even do it with needle nose pliers if you're careful.

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