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Bigger turbo, whats the best option

strtsol1109

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Looking to go bigger turbo and wondering what everyone thinks are the best options right now. Looking at the RV6 R660AS T51R and supporting fueling mods (Full race HPFP , 1530 injectors) mods. 93 will be most likely what i run due to scarcity of E around me but possible. Are the cars even streetable at the 550+ on E? Car will be mainly weekend fun car, no track or anything like that and some nice weather DDing.
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Tw1stedlog1k

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I've found that we hit a plateau at ~380hp on the stage 2 tunes and basic bolt ons. After that, it requires a huge cash commitment to overcome that with turbo, intercooler,and fuel. Even then it's roughly a jump of 50hp-80hp from a stage 2 and close to $7k just in parts. With Ethanol it's a significantly larger jump from a stage 2 for the additional cost of the Canflex. I'm seeing cars dyno at 570+hp with FBO, turbo, fuel and E.

I guess what I'm getting at it as go big or go home. Either stick with the stage 2, some basic bolt ons and call it a day or invest in Ethanol, any in between is a waste of resources.

I do get the allure of of the 400+ club though.
 

Ktrw

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I'm not sure the RV660 is worth swapping to if you're not going to run E since it will be quite a bit laggier. TBH, I have considered upgrading my turbo as well but I don't have E near me, and I feel like you kinda should run E, or have the option to, if you're going to run a bigger turbo because it's a substantial difference like @Tw1stedlog1k said. Might be worth talking to a tuner as well because you may not really need full fuel upgrades depending.
 

Victorofhavoc

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Looking to go bigger turbo and wondering what everyone thinks are the best options right now. Looking at the RV6 R660AS T51R and supporting fueling mods (Full race HPFP , 1530 injectors) mods. 93 will be most likely what i run due to scarcity of E around me but possible. Are the cars even streetable at the 550+ on E? Car will be mainly weekend fun car, no track or anything like that and some nice weather DDing.
How do you define street able?

At 550 and 3300lbs, you're in arrest me territory with a 30% throttle tip in for 3 seconds in 3rd gear on boost. At full throttle, where you were doing 100mph stock, you'll be doing 140mph.

Even a custom stage 1 tune on this car makes too much torque on the street. I can chirp third in a straight line and corner exit onto on ramps in second gear is spin city after 3.5k rpm. I consider it beyond reasonable for street use, and often times I just go back to stock or the lower torque Cobb tune for street. On track it's fine, but I've even spun and had to manage throttle on a nankang crs coming out of tighter corners in 2nd. You won't build enough heat on the street to get the tires grippy.

So your definition of "street able" might vary from mine or someone else's. If you're expecting more power to feel like a bigger engine, it's not the path.
 
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strtsol1109

strtsol1109

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How do you define street able?

At 550 and 3300lbs, you're in arrest me territory with a 30% throttle tip in for 3 seconds in 3rd gear on boost. At full throttle, where you were doing 100mph stock, you'll be doing 140mph.

Even a custom stage 1 tune on this car makes too much torque on the street. I can chirp third in a straight line and corner exit onto on ramps in second gear is spin city after 3.5k rpm. I consider it beyond reasonable for street use, and often times I just go back to stock or the lower torque Cobb tune for street. On track it's fine, but I've even spun and had to manage throttle on a nankang crs coming out of tighter corners in 2nd. You won't build enough heat on the street to get the tires grippy.

So your definition of "street able" might vary from mine or someone else's. If you're expecting more power to feel like a bigger engine, it's not the path.

Street able to me is will it ever actually hook where it can move fast in a straight line, FWD has limitations with power and corners, that's what the Z06 is for for me. Its just a fun DD to me, if someone pulls up along me on highway will it go anywhere in third or just spin.
 

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Ktrw

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Hondata traction control puts in work on my car. Fbo e-tuned by drob on the stock turbo and the slip is fairly minimal with that on, but it keeps it pretty much on the edge so it's not just cutting tons of power.
 

Victorofhavoc

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Street able to me is will it ever actually hook where it can move fast in a straight line, FWD has limitations with power and corners, that's what the Z06 is for for me. Its just a fun DD to me, if someone pulls up along me on highway will it go anywhere in third or just spin.
Okay, sounds like you're looking for reasonable power to pull third?

Like others have said, the stock turbo with a custom tune or more might not put down 550, but it will be a handful. The factory alignment on this car is not designed for straight line traction, so you'll never truly get a "hook" like you would in the vette. The alignment spec is focused for cornering on the ps4s and fairly comparable to the "track alignment" that Chevy recommends for the z06.

If you're really looking to run that much power and hook in 3rd gear on highways, you'll need to take out some camber, air down the front, air up the rear. It can hook, just wasn't designed to do it from factory.
 

TwinSkrullDesign

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A popular turbo choice is the 27Won Kuro / Kuro+.

I’m at that point where I either stay where I’m at (FBO) or move to the next level with turbo and fueling…haven’t decided.
 

Tw1stedlog1k

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A popular turbo choice is the 27Won Kuro / Kuro+.

I’m at that point where I either stay where I’m at (FBO) or move to the next level with turbo and fueling…haven’t decided.
I'm with you, I've been contemplating if I should just call it now or go all in.

I have a TSP downpipe and the PRL inlet sitting in boxes and it's a little concerning (for my wallet) how dangerously close the turbo is to to those two components. The "while I'm in there" approach may win out.
 

ABPDE5

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I'm with you, I've been contemplating if I should just call it now or go all in.

I have a TSP downpipe and the PRL inlet sitting in boxes and it's a little concerning (for my wallet) how dangerously close the turbo is to to those two components. The "while I'm in there" approach may win out.
There's value to be gained in upgrading the turbo without doing fueling, etc., imo. Reduced back-pressure is good, and you can shift the power / torque bands (and gain some headroom if you want to shape the torque curve). Obviously, peak HP / torque gains without upgrading fueling aren't huge (and won't compare in terms of perf / $ to a tune), so it depends what you're looking for, but the Kuro turbos aren't overly expensive, and if you're already gonna be in there for the DP, etc....
 

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UWU-mancer

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There's value to be gained in upgrading the turbo without doing fueling, etc., imo. Reduced back-pressure is good, and you can shift the power / torque bands (and gain some headroom if you want to shape the torque curve). Obviously, peak HP / torque gains without upgrading fueling aren't huge (and won't compare in terms of perf / $ to a tune), so it depends what you're looking for, but the Kuro turbos aren't overly expensive, and if you're already gonna be in there for the DP, etc....
Agreed. It’s amazing! I swapped my mk7.5 GTI turbo for the dtr6054. With bolt ons and stock dp I dyno’d about 410whp 390wtq

on the highway the car was a top end monster! I couldn’t believe how the character of the car changed
 
 





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