Autocross megathread

[optronix]

718 Boxsters are fast with PDK on 200TW. All variants. Obviously need a decent driver to extract it but they're fast.

Just for S&G because I have the video and love hearing the induction noise. This was a couple years ago on OEM Pirellis. I actually did decent times in this thing despite being far less experienced, it was easy to drive fast.

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[Sinnelizer]

718 Boxsters are fast with PDK on 200TW. All variants. Obviously need a decent driver to extract it but they're fast.

Just for S&G because I have the video and love hearing the induction noise. This was a couple years ago on OEM Pirellis. I actually did decent times in this thing despite being far less experienced, it was easy to drive fast.

Your hands definitely became better in slaloms.

Your course designer does a really good job with crossovers and other stuff. Very technical, I like it. I just singed up with SCCA to get coached and become a certified course designer. To make sure that those Toyotas in BS class are not comfortable in slaloms and tight corners, lol.

Which reminded me to ask, do you turn off al the nannies in ITS? I see they were at least partially on in Porsche. I wonder if that makes sense to do an Individual mode turn them off completely (if there is a way) in ITS? In my Camaro I used to turn everything off to drive a bare metal, and it worked perfectly in that car. Integra's helical LSD is mechanical from what I understand, and it can't be turned off, which is good. But I am thinking about like traction control and all other nannies.

PS
Sanity check - 94ft/lb for torque wrench, right?

 

[optronix]

Your hands definitely became better in slaloms.

Your course designer does a really good job with crossovers and other stuff. Very technical, I like it. I just singed up with SCCA to get coached and become a certified course designer. To make sure that those Toyotas in BS class are not comfortable in slaloms and tight corners, lol.

Which reminded me to ask, do you turn off al the nannies in ITS? I see they were at least partially on in Porsche. I wonder if that makes sense to do an Individual mode turn them off completely (if there is a way) in ITS? In my Camaro I used to turn everything off to drive a bare metal, and it worked perfectly in that car. Integra's helical LSD is mechanical from what I understand, and it can't be turned off, which is good. But I am thinking about like traction control and all other nannies.

PS
Sanity check - 94ft/lb for torque wrench, right?

I've only ever tried leaving traction control partially on when it was actively raining. I didn't like how intrusive it felt (even though it might have actually been faster) so I only used it for one maybe two runs. I honestly can't remember what I did in the Porsche... I think you have to turn it off to enable PDK launch control (which was a very fun feature I truly miss), but it's been long enough I've purged the thoughts from my brain. To answer your question, yes traction control completely off via "pedal dance", every single run. It seems annoying at first but I've gotten used to it... just have to be a little more cognizant of where you're at in the grid to leave yourself the 20-30 seconds or so it takes to go through the steps. Which I can probably recall off the top of my head:

- parking brake OFF, brake pedal ON, traction control button til it beeps x2
- parking brake ON, brake pedal OFF, TC button x2
- parking brake ON, brake pedal ON, TC button x2

Validate that against other sources but something like that, I've done it dozens of times.

It is a necessity to go through these steps to truly enjoy this car IMHO, to an extent including spirited driving on public roads. I don't drive like a maniac on the street ever, but I can notice a difference on a good road with VSA on vs off. Also, it absolutely destroys the rear brakes. Leaving it on for a single track day with good pace will have you replacing them immediately after.

Yes 94 ft/lbs for the lugs.

 

[Sinnelizer]

THANK YOU!

 

[Sinnelizer]

Finally got it to a shop today whose owners are autocrossers, too. Got this number before/after. Immediately felt it behaved differently in rear on freeways in curves. Like it wanted to oversteer or else. AX on July 11 and 12. Can't wait to see it in action.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Finally got it to a shop today whose owners are autocrossers, too. Got this number before/after. Immediately felt it behaved differently in rear on freeways in curves. Like it wanted to oversteer or else. AX on July 11 and 12. Can't wait to see it in action.

Hell yeah, that'll do.

I love how precise the steering gets with 0 toe. No more rubber necking or you'll go off the road

 

[optronix]

How'd they adjust the camber? "Strut pin" trick I'm guessing.

Edit- I see I already mentioned tires, tough to keep up these days I probably do end up repeating myself on these forums pretty often. But everyone competitive will be running 200TW, even in B street. Best you can do is Falken RT660+ in 275 if you want to stay with 19s. They're serviceable but still suck in wet or chilly conditions (I would NOT drive on them in sub-50 degrees on the street, not just safety but you will almost surely ruin them)- PS4S are actually better in those cases. Bridgestones are the fastest tire, period but they don't make them in a workable size in 19... I thought that was supposed to change with the release of the RZ but apparently they still haven't figured out this platform is a thing.

But as I mentioned my Michelins did not last long. Especially with camber. They're great as a "starter set" (and the best tire for the street), but if you're already to a point where you're beyond what I'd call novice-level (definitely seems you are based on input so far), so you definitely need to get on stickier tires than the PS4S. Stat.

 

[Sinnelizer]

How'd they adjust the camber? "Strut pin" trick I'm guessing.

Edit- I see I already mentioned tires, tough to keep up these days I probably do end up repeating myself on these forums pretty often. But everyone competitive will be running 200TW, even in B street. Best you can do is Falken RT660+ in 275 if you want to stay with 19s. They're serviceable but still suck in wet or chilly conditions (I would NOT drive on them in sub-50 degrees on the street, not just safety but you will almost surely ruin them)- PS4S are actually better in those cases. Bridgestones are the fastest tire, period but they don't make them in a workable size in 19... I thought that was supposed to change with the release of the RZ but apparently they still haven't figured out this platform is a thing.

But as I mentioned my Michelins did not last long. Especially with camber. They're great as a "starter set" (and the best tire for the street), but if you're already to a point where you're beyond what I'd call novice-level (definitely seems you are based on input so far), so you definitely need to get on stickier tires than the PS4S. Stat.

You're right about how they adjusted camber.

And thank you, I decided to follow your example. I plan to move to BST class. I am out of cash temporarily with this unplanned car purchase (I totaled my Camaro), so the next 2 AX events will be on OEM wheels and tires. I tasked the shop to find me a wider set of forged alloy racing wheels and 200TW tires for that set. I am bracing for impact and hope that will not cost over $7k for me, which I will get at the end of this month. I asked the shop to find a square set of wheels as I want to rotate the tires after very weekend. Did you stay with 19? Or did you get 20 and wider? What is your advice, what should I ask them to look for? I plan to do track days, too.

Also they will get me adjustable camber arms since it doesn't make sense to have wider tires with the same camber. I hope that's all min required investments for this year from me.

The OEM set will be a spare one for off season (which is in summer in California) and for emergency cases when I bald my AX set. I won't drive sub-50 degrees in the car as I work from home, and my daily drive is a street legal dirt bike. Except for Costco trips

 

[ABPDE5]

You're right about how they adjusted camber.

And thank you, I decided to follow your example. I plan to move to BST class. I am out of cash temporarily with this unplanned car purchase (I totaled my Camaro), so the next 2 AX events will be on OEM wheels and tires. I tasked the shop to find me a wider set of forged alloy racing wheels and 200TW tires for that set. I am bracing for impact and hope that will not cost over $7k for me, which I will get at the end of this month. I asked the shop to find a square set of wheels as I want to rotate the tires after very weekend. Did you stay with 19? Or did you get 20 and wider? What is your advice, what should I ask them to look for? I plan to do track days, too.

Also they will get me adjustable camber arms since it doesn't make sense to have wider tires with the same camber. I hope that's all min required investments for this year from me.

The OEM set will be a spare one for off season (which is in summer in California) and for emergency cases when I bald my AX set. I won't drive sub-50 degrees in the car as I work from home, and my daily drive is a street legal dirt bike. Except for Costco trips

For AX / track use, I would recommend 18s for compatibility. A 35 profile tire will bring you close to the OEM spec (30 profile on 19").

HRC sells a set of forged 18x10 et55, made by Titan7, at a reasonable price (~500ea). They will essentially retain the location of the inner wheel relative to the suspension while adding a half inch of width, they're light, and they're relatively inexpensive.

https://dreamshop.honda.com/s/product/hrc-titan7-ts5-forged-18x10-wheel/01tUT000009uTF6YAM

You can then pick up a 200tw of your choice in 275/35R18.

 

[Sinnelizer]

For AX / track use, I would recommend 18s for compatibility. A 35 profile tire will bring you close to the OEM spec (30 profile on 19").

HRC sells a set of forged 18x10 et55, made by Titan7, at a reasonable price (~500ea). They will essentially retain the location of the inner wheel relative to the suspension while adding a half inch of width, they're light, and they're relatively inexpensive.

https://dreamshop.honda.com/s/product/hrc-titan7-ts5-forged-18x10-wheel/01tUT000009uTF6YAM

You can then pick up a 200tw of your choice in 275/35R18.

Thank you very much!! Checking...

 

[mattm]

Or unicorn wheels: Titan 7 T-P10 Forged Wheel 18x9.5 +53 5x120

 

[Sinnelizer]

Or unicorn wheels: Titan 7 T-P10 Forged Wheel 18x9.5 +53 5x120

Thank you!! Great to have options.

 

[optronix]

You're right about how they adjusted camber.

And thank you, I decided to follow your example. I plan to move to BST class. I am out of cash temporarily with this unplanned car purchase (I totaled my Camaro), so the next 2 AX events will be on OEM wheels and tires. I tasked the shop to find me a wider set of forged alloy racing wheels and 200TW tires for that set. I am bracing for impact and hope that will not cost over $7k for me, which I will get at the end of this month. I asked the shop to find a square set of wheels as I want to rotate the tires after very weekend. Did you stay with 19? Or did you get 20 and wider? What is your advice, what should I ask them to look for? I plan to do track days, too.

Also they will get me adjustable camber arms since it doesn't make sense to have wider tires with the same camber. I hope that's all min required investments for this year from me.

The OEM set will be a spare one for off season (which is in summer in California) and for emergency cases when I bald my AX set. I won't drive sub-50 degrees in the car as I work from home, and my daily drive is a street legal dirt bike. Except for Costco trips

Ah. California.

Your current camber is acceptable, but obviously you could go more. Since it's not your daily driver and you're targeting BST I say go for it; but you'll need lower ball joints for the front adjustment- or alternatively if you plan to do coilovers eventually my recommendation is just stick it out for now and just do coils when you're ready. I fell in the same trap and ended up with springs+DSC and now wish I just went straight to coilovers. With coils, you can get the camber adjustment with plates at the tower. Some I believe come with them, some you may have to stitch together; I haven't looked into it completely but I was leaning either Ohlins with Sakebomb plates or I think maybe KW offers a version of coilover that comes with adjustable plates. I already have ball joints; the plates are just easier and offer more fine-tuning for adjustment.

Or unicorn wheels: Titan 7 T-P10 Forged Wheel 18x9.5 +53 5x120

In BST +53 isn't necessary, but yes- nice to have options if you want to stay in BS.

Personally I went with 18x10+40 CE28N with 275/35 RE-71RZ because they're some of the only wheels I personally like the aesthetics of in an 18 on this car- and I got a pretty good deal on them. They did run me north of $6k though with the tires. This is the life we live.

BTW this setup WILL RUB slightly even with camber. But SLIGHTLY is the key word. I was shocked and appalled to find out they rubbed when I put them on the car because everyone told me they wouldn't... but it literally went away after a couple days as they just kind of "made room" for themselves in the inner fender liner. I checked; there are no holes burned through and the tires are no worse for the wear aside from some minor scuffs that are also gone now. Just the slightest amount of clearance issues on major bumps but it was a surprise initially.

Here's my "daily" setup, still on Michelins but with Apex VS-5RS 19x9.5+45.

 

[Sinnelizer]

Ah. California.

Your current camber is acceptable, but obviously you could go more. Since it's not your daily driver and you're targeting BST I say go for it; but you'll need lower ball joints for the front adjustment- or alternatively if you plan to do coilovers eventually my recommendation is just stick it out for now and just do coils when you're ready. I fell in the same trap and ended up with springs+DSC and now wish I just went straight to coilovers. With coils, you can get the camber adjustment with plates at the tower. Some I believe come with them, some you may have to stitch together; I haven't looked into it completely but I was leaning either Ohlins with Sakebomb plates or I think maybe KW offers a version of coilover that comes with adjustable plates. I already have ball joints; the plates are just easier and offer more fine-tuning for adjustment.



In BST +53 isn't necessary, but yes- nice to have options if you want to stay in BS.

Personally I went with 18x10+40 CE28N with 275/35 RE-71RZ because they're some of the only wheels I personally like the aesthetics of in an 18 on this car- and I got a pretty good deal on them. They did run me north of $6k though with the tires. This is the life we live.

BTW this setup WILL RUB slightly even with camber. But SLIGHTLY is the key word. I was shocked and appalled to find out they rubbed when I put them on the car because everyone told me they wouldn't... but it literally went away after a couple days as they just kind of "made room" for themselves in the inner fender liner. I checked; there are no holes burned through and the tires are no worse for the wear aside from some minor scuffs that are also gone now. Just the slightest amount of clearance issues on major bumps but it was a surprise initially.

Here's my "daily" setup, still on Michelins but with Apex VS-5RS 19x9.5+45.

Thank you! Your car is gorgeous. I had to zoom in, it's just a perfection with both sets of wheels. Mine is never so clean, and it's black, lol.

Thank you for your advice and the warning about scrubbing. I might be overly cautious, but I think that might cause fire on track? Maybe I'm overthinking, but putting a new set and go on hot laps might be an issue.

Did I already say your car is stunning?

 

[optronix]

Thank you! Your car is gorgeous. I had to zoom in, it's just a perfection with both sets of wheels. Mine is never so clean, and it's black, lol.

Thank you for your advice and the warning about scrubbing. I might be overly cautious, but I think that might cause fire on track? Maybe I'm overthinking, but putting a new set and go on hot laps might be an issue.

Did I already say your car is stunning?

Thanks! It's parked outside more so I see it more often and I agree, it's fun to look at lol.

I think a fire hazard is a stretch, but my concern was just screwing up my tires I just spent $1800 for. Apparently any other tire that aren't Bridgestones should be fine.

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