Which Acuity parts needed to just remove lateral slop on shifter?

[Victorofhavoc]

For you track folk, I've seen the car can fit a set of tires, a jack, tools, and a cooler. As I'm sure you've probably figured out already.

Get to the track fully loaded, spend a full day on the track, and drive back home with full Honda reliability.

Tell that to my gti! 4 wheels, 20gal fuel, 10x10 canopy, all the tools, chairs, food, and other things.

And still room for 1 passenger

Honestly though, moving to a racecar and towing cut down a tremendous amount of my packing, unpacking, packing, and again unpacking time. You get there, unstrap, roll it off, and get dressed (unless you're me and always running late in the early hours so you just drive there in a suit and look like a crazy person filling up fuel ). If you have annual race or TT tech as well, then it really frees up your morning.

Which 275 did you go with? I curbed a wheel again yesterday on the factory dt1 ps4s. There's nearly zero rim protection and just trying to back out of an edge space (someone parked on the line next to me) I BARELY bumped the curb with the tire and 2" of rim edge is toast. I was going to look at the 265 standard ps4s (which is quite a bit wider than dt1), a 275, or maybe a 285. I know for the track setup next time I'll go with either a 275/35/18 slick or a 295/30/18 Hoosier TA. Latter might be snug, but it should work on an 18x10.5.

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[Tw1stedlog1k]

Tell that to my gti! 4 wheels, 20gal fuel, 10x10 canopy, all the tools, chairs, food, and other things.

And still room for 1 passenger

Honestly though, moving to a racecar and towing cut down a tremendous amount of my packing, unpacking, packing, and again unpacking time. You get there, unstrap, roll it off, and get dressed (unless you're me and always running late in the early hours so you just drive there in a suit and look like a crazy person filling up fuel ). If you have annual race or TT tech as well, then it really frees up your morning.

Which 275 did you go with? I curbed a wheel again yesterday on the factory dt1 ps4s. There's nearly zero rim protection and just trying to back out of an edge space (someone parked on the line next to me) I BARELY bumped the curb with the tire and 2" of rim edge is toast. I was going to look at the 265 standard ps4s (which is quite a bit wider than dt1), a 275, or maybe a 285. I know for the track setup next time I'll go with either a 275/35/18 slick or a 295/30/18 Hoosier TA. Latter might be snug, but it should work on an 18x10.5.

I can *feel* the anxiety in this picture lol.

I stuck with the factory PS4S because I do have a winter setup on the factory wheels. For summer I run a different wheel with the same diameter and width as factory, just a +35 offset. Didn't even make it a full summer and I've already curbed the new wheels .

 

[Victorofhavoc]

I can *feel* the anxiety in this picture lol.

I stuck with the factory PS4S because I do have a winter setup on the factory wheels. For summer I run a different wheel with the same diameter and width as factory, just a +35 offset. Didn't even make it a full summer and I've already curbed the new wheels .

Yeah the tetris anxiety is real when it's 11pm the night before and you have to get up at 4am to make it there by 7am, lol.

Any chance you could measure or snap a pic of the non dt1 275 vs factory dt1? I noticed my dt1 is as wide as my 255 winter, which explains a lot of curb rash on a 9.5" wheel.

Sorry to hear about your new wheels! That's the worst feeling! The one positive from my dealer was a 600$ 3 in 1 package that covers windshield chips, wheel rash, and tire punctures. I've gotten one free tire and 2 curbed wheels repaired so far. Almost paid for itself. Supposedly they also cover any aftermarket equivalent wheel or tire too, so even if I were to damage another set of wheels they'd cover it as long as I drive the car in with the wheel (doesn't have to be on the car).

 

[Tw1stedlog1k]

Unfortunately I don't have the factory tires around anymore to measure. Once the wheels come back in a couple of weeks I will be happy to measure them for you.

Every rash is a reminder if why tilting sideview mirrors are so important. Also good driving skills

 

[ashmostro]

For the first time ever, I went ahead and purchased the wheel and tire insurance this time, as it covers curb rash and there's no deductible. I like the OE wheel design and am unlikely to get a second set (I say that now, I know...)

 

[Tw1stedlog1k]

They do clean up well. One of the best factory wheel designs short of a 763M IMO.

 

[ashmostro]

Love that blue! Was my first choice but I had to have the red leather, so went with Platinum White, which is also a pretty great color.

 

[ashmostro]

Swapped out my OE clutch slave cylinder for a CDV-deleted slave from JSR Engines. The swap was pretty easy. After removing the airbox, I found that rather than breaking the seal between the soft and hard lines like every DIY video I found advises, it's easier to unbolt the bracket assembly of the soft to hard line fitting (see attached photo with red arrow pointing to the 10mm nut to remove) so that once the slave is unbolted from the transmission it can simply be swung down and then back up through the space previously occupied by the lower airbox assembly.

Then it's just a simple matter of sliding out the retaining clip for the hard line fitting on the slave, and quickly reinstalling the hard line onto the new slave (assuming you went the same route as me and bought a pre-modified slave). I lost maybe two drops of hydraulic fluid in this manner.

As for bleeding, I used a vacuum oil extractor with a smaller hose fitting that was snug enough on the bleed nipple to effectively enable me to bleed the slave without a helper. Took maybe five minutes, including master reservoir refilling and a bit of clutch pedal testing. It was one and done as far as bleeding - super easy system to bleed.

As for change in feel, it's obvious. Rapid clutch-outs results in very fast RPM realignment, whereas before there was a good bit of slip before RPMs settled. Next is a tune to remove the throttle plate rev hang and then the shifting is going to be as close to perfect as it can get for a cable actuated transmission!

 

[ashmostro]

I should add that the Hybrid Racing HD detent springs arrive tomorrow, and my plan is to install just the lateral detent spring and leave the longitudinal spring OE. I just want to clean up the side to side play as much as possible. The level of effort going into and out of gear is sufficient and I wouldn't want to increase it.

 

[ashmostro]

FYI, I went ahead and disassembled my original slave cylinder and successfully removed the delay valve innards. Reassembled and ready to install into the next car!

Anyone interested for a fair price, ping me.

 

[ashmostro]

FYI, I went ahead and disassembled my original slave cylinder and successfully removed the delay valve innards. Reassembled and ready to install into the next car!

Anyone interested for a fair price, ping me.

Just posted the FS thread up https://www.integraforums.com/forum/threads/cdv-deleted-clutch-slave-cylinder-from-2025-its.57590/

 

[Spart]

As for change in feel, it's obvious.

Nope, definitely in your head, no human can feel the difference in 37 ms of engagement speed, it takes you 500 ms to shift anyway unless you're Ayrton Senna, studies show human reaction speed is 200+ ms, blah blah did I miss anything?

Glad it went well.

 

[ashmostro]

Ok dude. You're right.

 

[Spart]

Ok dude. You're right.

The sarcasm may have been lost in transit. I have been CDV-less for the past 600 miles and enjoying it a lot.

Question - do you mind if I quote you in my CDV delete instruction video on your experience? Specifically this:

As for change in feel, it's obvious. Rapid clutch-outs results in very fast RPM realignment, whereas before there was a good bit of slip before RPMs settled.

Also, have you given any thought to changing your trans fluid yet? (Forgive me if you've already mentioned that in this thread, but I didn't pick up on it.)

 

[ashmostro]

I got the sarcasm, I'm just not all for continued and unnecessary quarreling between two otherwise helpful members. Everybody is entitled to their opinions, even if we think they're wrong.

Anyway, on to better things. No, I don't mind at all if you quote me. Thank you for asking.

As for the trans fluid, no I haven't considered it. Is the stock trans fluid not up to task, or are you just talking about a break in flush with the same stuff?

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