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Victorofhavoc

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I just need them to adopt Mac for fucks sake.

Windows is shit. U buy a windows lap top. Turn it on. After an hour or two of updates you can finally proceed. Only to have to sign into a million different things. And then. Fucking finally we are at the Home Screen. Only to get a damn pop up ad for some virus protection bullshit

meanwhile. U buy a shitty little over priced Mac. Turn the bitch on. Sign into iCloud. And that’s it. You’re in. It’s done

I hate Mac as much as windows but I can’t help to want the Mac’s experience since it respects my time more tbh.
This is only a problem when buying junk windows laptops, lol.

Maybe I'm over simplifying but I see people comparing a 500$ windows box to a 1500$ Mac all the time. I own both. I have a nice Mac for work, which I think they paid like 3k for and I have a razer I use personally that I paid 3200ish for. The razer is better hardware and power for sure, but the Mac is lighter, quieter, and sleeker. Each have their place. The windows machine is far more compatible with everything and much easier to manage files and stuff on. The Mac obfuscates file management to the point you can't find crap without jumping into terminal. If Mac didn't have terminal I would straight lose my mind with the interface 🤣. Can't beat it's battery life though. The razer will go 4 hrs max because of the desktop processor and GPU in it, but the Mac with go for like 12hrs+ (unless you do something graphically intensive and then it falls by 4x)

I hear you though. I just want there to be a competitor to Cobb with a device that can sit in your car with you and do a bunch, including scanning and clearing codes without having to drag out a laptop. I can't have a laptop in my passenger's seat and a cord hanging there on track, it's just unsafe and way to early 2000s. Since the new parent owns Cobb, I suspect the more likely scenario is we're ending competition here and after a few years the hondata device will be the Cobb device with a different plate on it or they may just merge the two and make a new gen device. Or not... Who knows... I hate PEs.
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Victorofhavoc

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In my case. About 10% stronger more pronounced thump. At about volume 10 and up it’s a lot more tho. It’s like it’s on a weird curve. At about volume 13-15 it Genuinely feel like 20-25% more thump

The inside of the box was filled with that stuff tho. Whatver it was called. How ever much you think you’ll need buy more. That little box takes a lot surprisingly. Maybe it wa called poly fill?

for 60 bucks and like 60 minutes of work. It’s worth it imo

Plz keep my observations in the “this guy isn’t an audiophile at all” pile tho
Lol. Yes it's poly fill. You can rip up an old pillow and about a 1/4 of a normal pillow is what goes in. I weighed mine out before stuffing it to be accurate to the box, but I don't recall what the weight called for now.
 

clark1566

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Lol. Yes it's poly fill. You can rip up an old pillow and about a 1/4 of a normal pillow is what goes in. I weighed mine out before stuffing it to be accurate to the box, but I don't recall what the weight called for now.
Ordered the sub and materials to do this mod. If it is not as hot as Satan's butt crack here again this weekend I'll do it when I get everything. Will post my experience once I'm done. I've already done a lot of the sound deadening.
 

Buckeye-TS

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I did the same but with a DS18 sub. I also heavily coated the inside of the box with fiberglass resin to give it more mass/strength then put in the polyfill. Once the speaker got “broken in” it seems to have given me quite a bit more bass and it’s a lot tighter. Obviously not as much as an amp would but enough that I’m gonna leave it as is.
Might be the first car I dont add sub/amp to since my first beater in ‘89. It broke down before I could save up the cash.
 

Victorofhavoc

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Ordered the sub and materials to do this mod. If it is not as hot as Satan's butt crack here again this weekend I'll do it when I get everything. Will post my experience once I'm done. I've already done a lot of the sound deadening.
So just looked through my old notes. I did 14oz of poly fill. You have to really fluff it out first and then stuff it in there loosely. It's a lot more than you might think, but based on the volume math I did back then it should make the box act "like it's 10% larger".

Also, I rode shotgun in a students civic type r over the weekend on track. Bone stock car. It's amazing how cheap the doors felt compared to my its where I put butyl on the back of every plastic surface. The Alcantara on the doors also felt cheap compared to the rubbery pleather of the its, which I didn't even think was possible to feel worse, 😂.

He was also seeing iat in the 180s 😳. I told him to remove the stupid drip tray under the louvre and his iat immediately dropped into the mid 130s. Still roughly 40F over ambient, but I believe with a turbo blanket and reflective foil like I did he should be able to get it down another 20F. The blanket is worth probably 10-15F and foil another 5-10F. 20F over ambient is a really good place to be.
 

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UWU-mancer

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This is only a problem when buying junk windows laptops, lol.

Maybe I'm over simplifying but I see people comparing a 500$ windows box to a 1500$ Mac all the time. I own both. I have a nice Mac for work, which I think they paid like 3k for and I have a razer I use personally that I paid 3200ish for. The razer is better hardware and power for sure, but the Mac is lighter, quieter, and sleeker. Each have their place. The windows machine is far more compatible with everything and much easier to manage files and stuff on. The Mac obfuscates file management to the point you can't find crap without jumping into terminal. If Mac didn't have terminal I would straight lose my mind with the interface 🤣. Can't beat it's battery life though. The razer will go 4 hrs max because of the desktop processor and GPU in it, but the Mac with go for like 12hrs+ (unless you do something graphically intensive and then it falls by 4x)

I hear you though. I just want there to be a competitor to Cobb with a device that can sit in your car with you and do a bunch, including scanning and clearing codes without having to drag out a laptop. I can't have a laptop in my passenger's seat and a cord hanging there on track, it's just unsafe and way to early 2000s. Since the new parent owns Cobb, I suspect the more likely scenario is we're ending competition here and after a few years the hondata device will be the Cobb device with a different plate on it or they may just merge the two and make a new gen device. Or not... Who knows... I hate PEs.
To be real with U. I’d rather a 500-600$ Chromebook vs a 3k windows laptop. Shit id rather the Chromebook over Mac too. Very no nonsense
 

Buckeye-TS

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So just looked through my old notes. I did 14oz of poly fill. You have to really fluff it out first and then stuff it in there loosely. It's a lot more than you might think, but based on the volume math I did back then it should make the box act "like it's 10% larger".

Also, I rode shotgun in a students civic type r over the weekend on track. Bone stock car. It's amazing how cheap the doors felt compared to my its where I put butyl on the back of every plastic surface. The Alcantara on the doors also felt cheap compared to the rubbery pleather of the its, which I didn't even think was possible to feel worse, 😂.

He was also seeing iat in the 180s 😳. I told him to remove the stupid drip tray under the louvre and his iat immediately dropped into the mid 130s. Still roughly 40F over ambient, but I believe with a turbo blanket and reflective foil like I did he should be able to get it down another 20F. The blanket is worth probably 10-15F and foil another 5-10F. 20F over ambient is a really good place to be.
Do you put the drip tray back when you’re not at the track or drive it like that daily
I was thinking of modifying it/ keeping the right side so it still protects the airbox inlet but is more open from the center over. Keep some rain out if I do have to drive in wet weather
 

Victorofhavoc

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Do you put the drip tray back when you’re not at the track or drive it like that daily
I was thinking of modifying it/ keeping the right side so it still protects the airbox inlet but is more open from the center over. Keep some rain out if I do have to drive in wet weather
I pop it back in for street. Takes like 30 seconds because it's just a few 10mm bolts. Honestly though, I rarely drive the car when it's raining because visibility is meh, wiper sprayers are trash, and Midwest roads are garbage so I'd rather take one of the SUV.
 

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What drip tray are yall talking about? Is it that little aluminum looking thing that gives access to the oil filter?
 

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Nah. Lift the hood. The black metal thing under the louvre (vent) on the hood.
Oh. So why the hell is it there to begin with? That’s the thingy I’m not supposed to touch cuz it’s always hot right? The hell is its purpose

just guessing, I assume at lower speeds it allows air to funnel easier for the sake of keeping lift low in the front? By removing it I think it’s less functional till you’re at a much higher speed? But then I guess that wouldn’t explain the better temps? Hmm
 

Victorofhavoc

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Oh. So why the hell is it there to begin with? That’s the thingy I’m not supposed to touch cuz it’s always hot right? The hell is its purpose

just guessing, I assume at lower speeds it allows air to funnel easier for the sake of keeping lift low in the front? By removing it I think it’s less functional till you’re at a much higher speed? But then I guess that wouldn’t explain the better temps? Hmm
It's literally a rain catch and drip guide. The water raining in from the louvre flows down through the catch and then drips down the hole at the bottom to land forward of the turbo and engine and right behind the radiator.

The factory louvre is actually incredibly well placed! The most effective louvres are right behind the radiator because that's a source of hood high pressure, clean air flowing over top, and a great place to extract hot air directly behind the radiator. This is ideal (and the way the gti tc car actually places their louvre). I really don't understand why the hrc hood louvres were placed out the way they are. It's a lot less efficient that way, extracts from the sides of the engine, and their only benefit is that they're larger so they flow more air out. Typically on racecars you place louvres there because of bracing that exists in the center section when you're retrofitting, but the factory hood already had it right. They should have just made it wider and longer with a tall wicker and called it a day.
 

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It's literally a rain catch and drip guide. The water raining in from the louvre flows down through the catch and then drips down the hole at the bottom to land forward of the turbo and engine and right behind the radiator.

The factory louvre is actually incredibly well placed! The most effective louvres are right behind the radiator because that's a source of hood high pressure, clean air flowing over top, and a great place to extract hot air directly behind the radiator. This is ideal (and the way the gti tc car actually places their louvre). I really don't understand why the hrc hood louvres were placed out the way they are. It's a lot less efficient that way, extracts from the sides of the engine, and their only benefit is that they're larger so they flow more air out. Typically on racecars you place louvres there because of bracing that exists in the center section when you're retrofitting, but the factory hood already had it right. They should have just made it wider and longer with a tall wicker and called it a day.
Ooooh. Thnx for explaining bro. Appreciate U
 
 





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