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DukeFrisbee

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It's a nice kit but the price is pretty steep. I totally get why; they're not gonna sell this in volume and they have to run a business. This is a nice middle ground as you say for folks who don't want to go all-in with a custom solution.

I think that's where I'm headed though. For the first time in a VERY long time, I'm convinced I'm keeping this car forever, so if I want an upgrade I won't half-step it. I'll probably set aside a good $5-7k for a convincing OEM+ upgrade. My benchmark is the Burmester system in my wife's Macan.
Agreed. I REALLY don't want to be the guy that discourages anyone or any company for supporting the platform but this almost never works. I've foolishly gone down this path at least 5 times over the years and it's always a disappointment. You can't just swap subs and have it work. The sub the OP spec'd requires 200W min and 350W optimal. So at most volumes this thing is going to see 20-30W? You'd prob have to peg the bass adj and crank it to even move the speaker area! Even on a PC with 5.1 speakers the videos seem like bass is cleaner and higher quality but actually less of it - and that's in a controlled environment. I suspect this does not feel like a $700+ upgrade when driving down the road. I'm not bashing the OP. I did the EXACT same thing in my GT350. Swapped subs, polyfilled the enclosure, etc. Still sounds like crap unless you're sitting in the car parked.

The OP should take the next step and find an input to tap and add an amp. THAT will make a difference. I'm surprised the vender put all the work into this and didn't take the extra time to come up with a complete package with subs designed to work with the volume of our enclosure, a plug and play amp, etc. I'd be far more inclined to spend $800-$1000 on a proven kit with sub, amp, and connectors vs $500 for a spacer and grill.
 

LCM23

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For that price you couldve done a hell of a lot more just for a spacer and a grill. Hand made or not you pretty much got ripped off for something worth $50 imo. Now if you go ask them how much it cost in materials to what they charged you, I bet you wouldn't make that purchase again.
 

nawfoo

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Kay
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Integra
I have a old JL 500/1 and a Sun Down Audio 10 inch laying in the garage. The only reason I havent installed it yet is because theres no safe way to secure the box. It weighs 40 pounds.
 

Integra23

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Tom
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I have a old JL 500/1 and a Sun Down Audio 10 inch laying in the garage. The only reason I havent installed it yet is because theres no safe way to secure the box. It weighs 40 pounds.
That's what this car needs. With the basic eq that this comes with I can't get anything out of the factory sub. Seems like the door speakers are doing all the work.
 

preston23

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Preston
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2024 Acura Integra Type-S
I have been unhappy with the bump in the ELS system and wanted to upgrade the woofer to get a little more umph but did not want to modify the stock box. I wanted some performance upgrade with very little work. So, when Palindrome Labs announced they were working on a kit, I jumped on the pre-order, and it arrived today. I just completed the Stage 1 upgrade of the stock ELS woofer to an AudioControl SPK-8S2 with the Palindrome Labs Subwoofer and Grille Kit. Here is a sound snippet before and after. I honestly feel it sounds a lot better and am happy with the outcome.

Was it worth it? For me, to be able to upgrade with very little modification. Not having to cut into and modify the stock subwoofer box and not having to take up any trunk space for a new box is a win for me. only modification that needed to be done was to replace the stock grille.
(https://balladesports.com/.../de4-de5-integra-type-s...).

This was at Volume 13 only.





Before.jpeg


After.jpeg
It it best to run a single voice coil sub with the stock amp? Most have duel voice coils.

I think I might go this route but want to get a sub that will hit the Hardest on the stock amp. Does anyone have any speculation of what 8 inch sub would be the best possible for that factory setup in regards to the most bass?
 
OP
OP
tricky_tran

tricky_tran

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Tim
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2024 Integra Type S, Tesla Model Y
To run off stock AMP, you need to make sure it’s a 2ohm woofer. It doesn’t hit as much as I wish it would, my wife’s model Y still sounds so much better. I am eventually going to upgrade everything and including the door speakers. I’m just glad I didn’t have to cut up the OE box
 

MikeMc

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I bought the adapter and made an appointment for someone to do the installation for me, but about an hour before I was about to leave for the appointment, he called me to say that I should have Acura turn off the active noise cancellation and the fake engine noise that gets pumped through the speakers. He said that if I don’t do that first, the new subwoofer will be negatively affected by it, so I cancelled the appointment just to be on the safe side. Does that make sense? The installation also included an amplifier.
 
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tricky_tran

tricky_tran

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I bought the adapter and made an appointment for someone to do the installation for me, but about an hour before I was about to leave for the appointment, he called me to say that I should have Acura turn off the active noise cancellation and the fake engine noise that gets pumped through the speakers. He said that if I don’t do that first, the new subwoofer will be negatively affected by it, so I cancelled the appointment just to be on the safe side. Does that make sense? The installation also included an amplifier.
Interesting, First I am hearing about this.
 

Frenzal

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I don't think the ITS has the fake engine noise. The CTR does.

Please correct me if I'm wrong!
 

Integra23

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I don't think the ITS has the fake engine noise. The CTR does.

Please correct me if I'm wrong!
I have not noticed it if it does. I guess you can look for the module by the glovebox and pull it.
 
 


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