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If you still don't see a leak, try wiggling the connections while doing the soapy water test.

Well, it's possible that when things move around a small amount leaks out through a connection somewhere which may compound over time, but not significantly enough to see a measured change over the short term.

So, having been down the road of adding refrigerant myself in that past I think more diagnostics are needed. You'll want to confirm the A/C clutch engages and look for any unusual frost areas, i.e. on or around the a/c lines and components. If all appears good, then you can move on to the temp...

There are specific wholes through which each mirror nut can be easily removed through with an extension. A magnetic socket would work, but I also found a little painters tape over the hex end of the socket worked just fine. There are wholes behind the mirror glass which make it easier to remove...

As long as the wires aren't damaged you may be able to swap the good parts over to another mirror assembly, though you will need to de-pin the connector to feed the wires back through where it rotates. You might check car-part.com or LKQ to see if they have any reasonably priced used mirrors...

Yeah, being opensource it's not uncommon to have something that's included at compile time. That's one of the challenges when working with these OS' since they can also omit features included in the original build and, in some cases, substitute their own comparable feature in its place.

Yeah, it sounds like they incorporated some custom components in to this build of the OS that weren't previously included, much like what is done with other Android/Chrome OS devices.

So, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that Android, or Chrome OS has been the underlying OS since at least 2024. How do I know? I know because I went into the settings menu found the build number and tapped it 7 times to enable developer options, which it did, but it also caused some issue...

Here you go...

So after looking at the diagrams there are some important things which use that same connection, i.e. wheel speed sensors (RED/YEL, LT_GRN/WHT), parking brake actuator (YEL/GRN, RED/BLK), EVAP Canister Vent Shut Valve (LT_GRN/PUR). Even though those would just pass through, I'm not sure how...

Have you checked online? Here are some to check which don't currently show it as unavailable or special order: https://www.alldiscountparts.com/oem-parts/honda-motor-o-ring-53106s0a003 https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/oem/acura~o~ring~54~4x3~1~53106-s0a-003.html...

Since you wouldn't be replacing the EPS motor/control unit as far as your car's ECU is concerned these post installation steps seem to suggest you won't need to do the first two steps listed. Though, I would replace the O-ring (Part Number: 53106-S0A-003) and make sure you follow this...

If they are removing the front/rear bumper to apply PPF, then the sensors were more than likely unplugged. I would think this is uncommon for clear PPF, but a colored wrap, which is also PPF, would be more likely to have this done. In either case, here's the A.D.A.S. calibration requirements for...

Yeah, I think the closest someone was able to get was It was w/ that rim and the tire deflated. With the exhaust being in the center, I'm not sure there' s room to lower the temporary spare wheel well.

Not sure what happened w/ yours, but could PPF help prevent it?

It sounds like this is almost an inevitability. I wonder if there may be a way to add some additional support to prevent it altogether.

I've also picked up a mini or ultra mini paint brush in the past which worked well. Some body shops provide dabbers like this: E-Z Dabber Precision Touch Up Applicator

That's been Honda's MO as far back as I can remember. Must have something to do with the larger size having greater pressure exerted on it, but that's reaching a bit since I have no expertise in fluid dynamics. Could just be differences in who made them for Honda?

Yeah, they're tough to get to. I have some long reach needle nose plyers, but it sounds like either you need to combine them w/ a panel remover tool or just use your finger nails. So much for a pain free removal!

I usually get my touch-up paint from the dealership. If you get it somewhere else, just put a small amount on a non-porous surface and let it dry before comparing it to you cars paint. If it matches great! If not, well at least it's not on your car. The only thing I would recommend is don't...