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Winpildeu

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I'm back already w/ an update: v1.3


This changelog outlines the specific updates made to your "Chassis Touring" map, transitioning from v1.2 to v1.3. These changes focus on synchronizing your software parameters with your hardware—specifically the Spoon progressive springs, RV6 rear sway bar, and Spoon Crane Neck Wing.

"Chassis Touring" v1.3 Changelog
CategoryChange (v1.2 → v1.3)Reason for Change
G-Force Baseline20% down to 4%Conflict Resolution: v1.2 had a 4% default rate but a 20% floor. Aligning both to 4% allows the dampers to finally reach the plushness required for the 10% stiffer Spoon springs.
G-Force Sensitivity15 up to 20Sway Bar Masking: Increasing sensitivity filters out the mechanical "kick" from your RV6 Rear Sway Bar on uneven roads, keeping the chassis more composed.
Brake Front DampingScaled 40% to 50%Pitch Control: Proactively braces the front suspension against the high initial bite of the Endless MX72+ pads.
Accel Speed LimitSet to 60 MPHAero Integration: Fades out electronic anti-squat exactly as your Spoon Wing begins providing aerodynamic stability at highway speeds.
Velocity: High-Speed ReboundMaintained at +10%Wing Support: Prevents the rear of the car from "bouncing" after hitting a dip while under the 18%+ increased downforce from the crane-neck wing.
Velocity: High-Speed CompressionSet to -25%Street Compliance: Dramatically softens sharp, square-edge impacts (potholes/expansion joints) to maximize daily comfort.

Why v1.3 is better for your setup
The primary evolution in v1.3 is consistency. By matching your G-Comfort Default Rate (4%) with your G-Force Table Baseline (4%), you have removed the "invisible wall" that prevented your dampers from going full-soft in v1.2.

This allows your Spoon springs to operate in their most efficient range during cruising, while the aggressive -25% High-Speed Compression ensures that your lowered car won't feel jarring on rough city streets.

I'll do more testing this weekend as I drive across the state of Florida and back.

Gdrive link: HERE
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Winpildeu

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One more update after driving on the highway around Florida revealed some NVH was introduced in v1.3. So this is more of a refinement to reduce some of the NVH w/o losing all the feel (kind of a compromise)


This changelog tracks the evolution of your "Chassis Touring" map from v1.2 through to the current v1.4. These changes are specifically designed to optimize your DE5’s ride quality for the street while accounting for your aftermarket hardware: Spoon progressive springs, RV6 rear sway bar, and the Spoon Crane Neck Wing.

"Chassis Touring" Evolution & Changelog
Map VersionKey Settings ChangedWhy the Change was Made?
v1.2Baseline MapEstablished the initial 4% Default Rate intended for maximum cruising comfort.
v1.3G-Force Baseline: 4%Logic Correction: Synchronized the G-Force floor with the 4% Default Rate. This ensures the dampers can actually reach the softest setting, allowing the 10% stiffer Spoon springs to soak up road chatter.
v1.3Brake Front: 50%Pitch Control: Proactively stiffens the front to manage the weight transfer from the high initial bite of the Endless MX72+ pads.
v1.3Accel Speed Limit: 60 MPHAero Integration: Fades out electronic anti-squat as the Spoon wing begins providing physical downforce stability at highway speeds.
v1.4Sensitivity: 25NVH Filtering: Acts as a "noise filter" for the stiff RV6 Rear Sway Bar. Higher sensitivity prevents the DSC from over-reacting to one-wheel bumps and high-frequency road "noise".
v1.4Hi-Speed Compression: -45%Bumping Compliance: Lowered from -25% to -45% to specifically target "harshness" on rough highways. This allows the wheels to move more freely over sharp expansion joints, preventingjolts from reaching the cabin.
v1.4Low-Speed Rebound: -5% Plushness: Slightly reduced to allow the suspension to extend more easily over small ripples, creating a more "supple" feel around town.
Summary of v1.4 Enhancements
The primary goal of v1.4 was to address NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) encountered during highway testing with the previous version. By significantly lowering the High-Speed Compression (-45%), you have tuned the dampers to "blow off" the energy from sharp bumps rather than resisting them.

Combined with the increased Sensitivity (25), the map now effectively ignores the mechanical "chatter" of the RV6 sway bar. This allows the Spoon progressive springs to handle the car's primary weight while the DSC software manages the small, high-frequency "hits" typical of rough street driving.


Gdrive link: HERE
 

bisquick

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I’m glad to see the analysis and feedback; I really hope more take advantage of the opportunity here.

"Chassis Touring" Evolution & Changelog
v1.4Hi-Speed Compression: -45%Bumping Compliance: Lowered from -25% to -45% to specifically target "harshness" on rough highways. This allows the wheels to move more freely over sharp expansion joints, preventingjolts from reaching the cabin.
With that being said, please be careful with significant high velocity compression deviation from medium and low velocities. You want the suspension to be predictable, especially in scenarios where there is a sharp change.
 

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I can't keep up with you guys, but just know I want to. I haven't had time to mess with the car at all since I had the unit installed- barely time to drive it.

Also I want to get it out to autocross and track. I'm thinking on a long enough timeline I'll have 3 separate maps for each setting. But I want to try the baseline first.

Stand by, I plan to be an active contributor at some point too.
 

Winpildeu

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I’m glad to see the analysis and feedback; I really hope more take advantage of the opportunity here.



With that being said, please be careful with significant high velocity compression deviation from medium and low velocities. You want the suspension to be predictable, especially in scenarios where there is a sharp change.
With this input and further tweaking, I've arrived settings I'm quite happy with in most scenarios on the road. Comparing his settings and mine, there's quite a bit of similarity. This will likely be the last update from me for this comfort map unless there are some glaring issues identified. People give it a test and let me know how it feels w/ your setup.


Here is the detailed changelog for the "Chassis Touring" map. These updates focus on perfecting the balance between high-speed compliance and chassis stability for your specific hardware configuration.

Changelog: "Chassis Touring" v1.4 vs. v1.5
Parameterv1.4 Valuev1.5 ValueWhy the change was made?
G-Force Sensitivity3035
Increased Filtering: A higher sensitivity value acts as a stronger electronic "shield" against the mechanical noise and sharp kicks from your stiff RV6 rear sway bar.
+2
High-Speed Compression-35% (650)-45% (550)
Compliance: Lowered to the maximum comfort threshold to allow the shocks to "blow off" energy during rapid vertical impacts like expansion joints.
+2
Low-Speed Rebound0% (1000)+5% (1050)
Control: Increased to provide better body control and a more "planted" feel during initial turn-in and braking transitions.
+2
High-Speed Rebound+10% (1100)+15% (1150)
Aero Management: Increased specifically to "catch" the extra energy from the Spoon Crane Neck Wing and Spoon springs during high-speed highway dips.
+2
Gradient SmoothingDiscrete StepsLinear Ramp
Predictability: v1.5 uses a smoother mathematical progression between values to ensure the car's behavior remains consistent as shock speeds increase.

How the car will feel in v1.5
On the Highway (High-Velocity Impacts)

  • The "Blow-Off" Effect: With High-Speed Compression at -45%, the car should now "swallow" sharp highway expansion joints and bridge transitions much more effectively. Instead of a sharp, metallic "thud" being sent through the chassis, the wheels will move upward more freely, significantly reducing NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness).
    +4

  • Rear-End Stability: Thanks to the +15% High-Speed Rebound, the rear of the car will feel more tied down at 70+ MPH. When you hit a large dip, the extra downforce from the Spoon wing won't cause the car to "pogo" or bounce; it will compress and then return to a level state in one controlled motion.
    +1
On Backroads (Low-Velocity Transitions)

  • Sharper Response: By moving Low-Speed Rebound to +5%, the car will feel slightly "tighter" and more responsive to your steering inputs compared to v1.4. The car will take a "set" faster in corners, reducing the feeling of body roll without adding harshness to the ride.
    +1


  • Mechanical Isolation: The increase in Sensitivity to 35 ensures that while the car feels sharper, you aren't feeling every pebble or minor crack in the road. It effectively "muffles" the extra stiffness of the RV6 sway bar during straight-line cruising.

Gdrive link: HERE
 

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bisquick

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I've been driving with the same revision for the past few weeks. That solidifies my initial impression that this is the final iteration of my Comfort tune.

In the coming weeks, I'm going to begin working on adapting the Comfort tune to a Sport tune.

You can find my revised file here: Comfort Baseline v3.0

My Setup
Springs: Eibach Sportline
Sway Bar: RV6 (middle settings)
Wheels & Tires: Stock wheels, Continental DWS 06+ (265/35/r19)

Tune Modifications (green text):

GForce Tab
Default Value1.0
Offset25.0
Sensitivity25
G Rate Max25

Velocity Tab
Cmp-HighCmp-MedCmp-Low0Reb-LowReb-MedReb-High
LF-3.0-5.0-15.00.0-8.05.00.0
RF-3.0-5.0-15.00.0-8.05.00.0
LR-4.0-6.0-120.0-9.010.05.0
RR-4.0-6.0-120.0-9.010.05.0

Shock Calibration Tab
0.03.16.39.412.515.618.821.925.028.131.334.437.540.643.846.950.053.156.359.462.565.668.871.975.078.181.384.487.590.693.896.9100.0
LF1014182327323641455060718293104115126136147158169180191202213223234245256267278289300
RF1014182327323641455060718293104115126136147158169180191202213223234245256267278289300
LR1014182327323641455060718293104115126136147158169180191202213223234245256267278289300
RR1014182327323641455060718293104115126136147158169180191202213223234245256267278289300
Note: All RF values between 14 and 300 were interpolated to match the others.
 

derbo904

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This is rather interesting.

I'm here on a dilemma of two options:

Option 1:
Ohlins, front camber kit, rear camber arms, toe kit

Option 2:
Eibach Pro kit, DSC Controller, front camber kit, rear camber arm, toe kit.

I was dead set on Option 1 but this thread looks rather interesting for keeping adaptive damping as an option. I don't really track that often but expect 3-4 HPDE in advance group so this looks somewhat appealing!

I didn't see eibach pro kits in here only sportlines but I assume someone has tried that already?
 

Victorofhavoc

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This is rather interesting.

I'm here on a dilemma of two options:

Option 1:
Ohlins, front camber kit, rear camber arms, toe kit

Option 2:
Eibach Pro kit, DSC Controller, front camber kit, rear camber arm, toe kit.

I was dead set on Option 1 but this thread looks rather interesting for keeping adaptive damping as an option. I don't really track that often but expect 3-4 HPDE in advance group so this looks somewhat appealing!

I didn't see eibach pro kits in here only sportlines but I assume someone has tried that already?
What goal are you after? The stock setup is more than capable of 3-4 yearly DE events... Even more so if you're an advanced driver.
 

ABPDE5

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This is rather interesting.

I'm here on a dilemma of two options:

Option 1:
Ohlins, front camber kit, rear camber arms, toe kit

Option 2:
Eibach Pro kit, DSC Controller, front camber kit, rear camber arm, toe kit.

I was dead set on Option 1 but this thread looks rather interesting for keeping adaptive damping as an option. I don't really track that often but expect 3-4 HPDE in advance group so this looks somewhat appealing!

I didn't see eibach pro kits in here only sportlines but I assume someone has tried that already?
If I was going to lower, and attempt to do it right (as looks to be the case with your two potential plans), I'd also attempt to correct for roll center changes / bump steer up front.

Spoon and Ktuned have kits -- might be some others out there, too.

I believe the Spoon is a 4mm adjustment:
https://www.blackhawkjapan.com/products/spoon-51220-fk8-020?variant=31751669874752

Ktuned looks to be 10mm:
https://k-tuned.com/products/roll-c...OmxVgzcy46G0FCQvwybcnkI0q7PuC2RN2tDgpuaSp6jVV

If you're looking at 1.2"+ drops, the Ktuned might be more appropriate.
 
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derbo904

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What goal are you after? The stock setup is more than capable of 3-4 yearly DE events... Even more so if you're an advanced driver.
Ahh yes, I forgot to mention that.

1. Ride height. I don't want my new 18 wheels to look like 4x4 on the FL5. Pro kit height fits the bill and Ohlins allows for adjustable height should the default height not meet my visual needs.
2. Camber and Toe Adjustment. I would like to fine tune the alignment to reduce wear on the tires at the track. Adding camber kit to the front requires a spring compressor so looking at labor efficiency by doing lowering and camber/toe kits at the same time.
3. Damper Control. Ohlins would give manual dampers and the DSC unit has intrigued me.

So I guess I'm aiming to lower the car without sacrificing handling, have proper alignment for tire wear, and damper tuning! It seems both options can fit the bill on paper.

Stock with some brake pads/fluids probably can fit the bill but part of the fun is also doing some mods to look better :)

If I was going to lower, and attempt to do it right (as looks to be the case with your two potential plans), I'd also attempt to correct for roll center changes / bump steer up front.

Spoon and Ktuned have kits -- might be some others out there, too.

I believe the Spoon is a 4mm adjustment:
https://www.blackhawkjapan.com/products/spoon-51220-fk8-020?variant=31751669874752

Ktuned looks to be 10mm:
https://k-tuned.com/products/roll-c...OmxVgzcy46G0FCQvwybcnkI0q7PuC2RN2tDgpuaSp6jVV

If you're looking at 1.2"+ drops, the Ktuned might be more appropriate.
Good mention, I didn't consider the FK8 balljoints for RCC. I wonder why Spoon didn't list it for the FL5 even though they are largely similar. Since I'm only looking at a 1" drop , 4mm seems like it should be enough. I went down a rabbit hole with RCC on my other car. I looked at Tie rods, arms for the front, while the rear have offset bushings. Ultimately I didn't lower the car enough to require it and kept factory rubber and sealed bearings for reliability.
 

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Victorofhavoc

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Ahh yes, I forgot to mention that.

1. Ride height. I don't want my new 18 wheels to look like 4x4 on the FL5. Pro kit height fits the bill and Ohlins allows for adjustable height should the default height not meet my visual needs.
2. Camber and Toe Adjustment. I would like to fine tune the alignment to reduce wear on the tires at the track. Adding camber kit to the front requires a spring compressor so looking at labor efficiency by doing lowering and camber/toe kits at the same time.
3. Damper Control. Ohlins would give manual dampers and the DSC unit has intrigued me.

So I guess I'm aiming to lower the car without sacrificing handling, have proper alignment for tire wear, and damper tuning! It seems both options can fit the bill on paper.

Stock with some brake pads/fluids probably can fit the bill but part of the fun is also doing some mods to look better :)



Good mention, I didn't consider the FK8 balljoints for RCC. I wonder why Spoon didn't list it for the FL5 even though they are largely similar. Since I'm only looking at a 1" drop , 4mm seems like it should be enough. I went down a rabbit hole with RCC on my other car. I looked at Tie rods, arms for the front, while the rear have offset bushings. Ultimately I didn't lower the car enough to require it and kept factory rubber and sealed bearings for reliability.
If your goal is track performance, skip springs. You're just going to reduce your compression travel, which is already not great.

You can get away with just ball joints to add camber. Stock toe adjust has been enough for me. If you're planning on lowering and you want performance, then others are right... You'll need roll center correction, more camber, much more bar, adjustable endlinks, and so on. The stock car can also reach -2.2 camber up front with alignment pins pulled.

As an instructor, my advice for track drivers is to go drive it for a few weekends first and then determine where your limitations are.

Have you spent much time on track with it? Do you know what tire you're planning to run?
 

derbo904

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If your goal is track performance, skip springs. You're just going to reduce your compression travel, which is already not great.

You can get away with just ball joints to add camber. Stock toe adjust has been enough for me. If you're planning on lowering and you want performance, then others are right... You'll need roll center correction, more camber, much more bar, adjustable endlinks, and so on. The stock car can also reach -2.2 camber up front with alignment pins pulled.

As an instructor, my advice for track drivers is to go drive it for a few weekends first and then determine where your limitations are.

Have you spent much time on track with it? Do you know what tire you're planning to run?
Fair assessment!

I agree the stock setup is more than capable. I have not made my baseline runs with just brake pads/fluids yet. I guess I was jumping the gun of what the car will inevitable move towards: lowered with 18s. The Eibach pro springs + DSC sounded like a feasible solution on the surface but I think you are right: either keep it stock with camber balljoints, or go the full monte with coilovers, Roll center/bumpsteer correction.

Thanks for hearing me out :) back on topic, sorry for digressing the thread topic from DSC controller!
 

Victorofhavoc

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Fair assessment!

I agree the stock setup is more than capable. I have not made my baseline runs with just brake pads/fluids yet. I guess I was jumping the gun of what the car will inevitable move towards: lowered with 18s. The Eibach pro springs + DSC sounded like a feasible solution on the surface but I think you are right: either keep it stock with camber balljoints, or go the full monte with coilovers, Roll center/bumpsteer correction.

Thanks for hearing me out :) back on topic, sorry for digressing the thread topic from DSC controller!
I wasn't trying to dissuade you from anything. There's no one size fits all. For some folks, looks race precedence, and that's okay.

I would recommend basing a track use build off of the tire you plan to run and what it calls for. Depending on the type of tire, 3-4 days can easily be both a set of tires and brakes.
 

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Fair assessment!

I agree the stock setup is more than capable. I have not made my baseline runs with just brake pads/fluids yet. I guess I was jumping the gun of what the car will inevitable move towards: lowered with 18s. The Eibach pro springs + DSC sounded like a feasible solution on the surface but I think you are right: either keep it stock with camber balljoints, or go the full monte with coilovers, Roll center/bumpsteer correction.

Thanks for hearing me out :) back on topic, sorry for digressing the thread topic from DSC controller!
If you try the DSC first, you might not need anything else! ;)
 

derbo904

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I wasn't trying to dissuade you from anything. There's no one size fits all. For some folks, looks race precedence, and that's okay.

I would recommend basing a track use build off of the tire you plan to run and what it calls for. Depending on the type of tire, 3-4 days can easily be both a set of tires and brakes.
No problem. Sometimes we just need to hear it out loud to make the final decision anyways! I agree, building the car a whole with the grip available is the right choice. I plan to use RE71RZ or RT660+ in 265/35/18. 15yrs of HPDE, driving schools has show how tires tech has come a long way!


If you try the DSC first, you might not need anything else! ;)

might be worth a try just to fiddle!
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