2025 DE4 Integra 6 Speed ABP Build

[Scambini]

Im in miami LOL - its scorching 90 percent of the time.

Having been stationed on the SE US coast from DC south there’s no relief especially in the summer. I have a WeatherTech front windshield sunshade and I definitely know when I forget to put it in the window, and the shift knob really gets warm if it receives direct sunlight. Oh, I’ll put a plug in fir tge WeatherTech sunshade - it’s a little pricey but it fits like a glove covering the entire front windshield, tight enough the visors aren’t necessary to hold it in place like others.

Sponsored

 

[DE4Willyyyy]

hey guys, just wanted to send a quick update regarding the RMM. it's been roughly 300-400 miles already put on (I commute a lot), and NVH has decreased SIGNIFICANTLY. however, the vibrations and feedback from the wheel is still there, which I love - most notable at the higher end of the rev range. the honeymoon phase is definitely gone, but that doesn't mean that the fast shifting with ease and the satisfying downshifts (that no longer jerks the car) doesn't put a smile on my face.

in terms of handling, i'd say the car is a lot better at putting the power down when exiting out of a corner. combine that with the torque, it's really satisfying and fun. on chicanes, i would say it's a lot more easier to balance the car and let the car flow with the road through the throttle as the engine doesn't shift the momentum as much. definitely noticeable when driving hard on the canyons.

I don't know if its cause the temperatures are dropping a bit more here in SoCal, but the shifting feel seemed to have gotten a lot more tactile? it just feels a lot more better than usual. not sure if it's from the RMM breaking in or not. either way, I ain't complaining lol

overall, the RMM unlocks the chassis rigidity and stiffness that Honda/Acura was hiding through their softer OEM RMM. (that's how I like to think of it)

now we save up for the intercooler and tune

 

[Unity Performance]

Mods list is great! One thing that will really hold you back until they're swapped out is those ContiProContact tires - they're the economy version meant to last super long, and be mediocre for all other aspects.

100% sell them for some ECS02's (performance summe), or DWS06+ (performance all season). Both are great, and with them installed you'll then be able to enjoy the mods you've installed to their potential on the street.

 

[wdrx02]

I noticed your pressure release from the turbo is noticeable/obvious especially when you turned around and back heading towards the camera. Did you modify the OEM by pass vale to a blow off valve or is it simply because you have a standard version? Just curious, what made your pressure release of the turbo so noticeable "pssshhhheww" sound ^_^

 

[DE4Willyyyy]

I noticed your pressure release from the turbo is noticeable/obvious especially when you turned around and back heading towards the camera. Did you modify the OEM by pass vale to a blow off valve or is it simply because you have a standard version? Just curious, what made your pressure release of the turbo so noticeable "pssshhhheww" sound ^_^

it's the PRL intake + Side duct. not as loud as a short ram, but still very noticeable, as you could tell in the video.

blow off valves are not recommended for these cars. I forgot the reason why, but its generally not recommended. something with it being a twin scroll turbo?

but yeah, all I did was an aftermarket intake.

 

[Frenzal]

Don't think the Integra has a twin scroll turbo.

 

[DE4Willyyyy]

Don't think the Integra has a twin scroll turbo.

oops, yeah thanks for correcting me. single scroll. apparently the 11th gen civic has twin scroll? according to 27won?

https://www.27won.com/blog/11th-gen...rger-design-blog-pt-1-started-from-the-bottom

if thats the case, I wonder if we can swap turbos from the 11th gen Si to the DE4 integras? most likely not worth the hassle, but more curious than willing lol

 

[wdrx02]

it's the PRL intake + Side duct. not as loud as a short ram, but still very noticeable, as you could tell in the video.

blow off valves are not recommended for these cars. I forgot the reason why, but its generally not recommended. something with it being a twin scroll turbo?

but yeah, all I did was an aftermarket intake.

Is this it? https://www.twostepperformance.com/...h-volume-intake-system?variant=40932333518980

Or
https://www.twostepperformance.com/...ra-1-5t-high-volume-plus-cold-air-intake-duct

 

[DE4Willyyyy]

Is this it? https://www.twostepperformance.com/...h-volume-intake-system?variant=40932333518980

Or
https://www.twostepperformance.com/...ra-1-5t-high-volume-plus-cold-air-intake-duct

I have both of them. the second link you sent is an optional duct that goes towards the wheel well for more air. but you dont need it, the intake is fine by itself.

 

[slowcountry]

...during idle, it can be felt very slightly, nothing insane, but once you turn on the a/c, vibrations get a little more intense.

Totally agree on all your points on the RMM - this one is the one I can't quite put my finger on though. I note it too and it's annoying to the point of just not using the AC. One thing I've found on the forums that there could be an ac or heat condenser pipe bracket in the right side of the driver wheel well that comes loose and allows the pipe to vibrate against the chassis.

Hypothesis (since we both have the RMM) - the initial break in period allows this bracket to jog loose which allows the pipe to vibrate against the chassis. Is the initial AC rattle still present on yours? I might pull that area apart to install some dynamat at some point - will check it out if I do.

 

[DE4Willyyyy]

Totally agree on all your points on the RMM - this one is the one I can't quite put my finger on though. I note it too and it's annoying to the point of just not using the AC. One thing I've found on the forums that there could be an ac or heat condenser pipe bracket in the right side of the driver wheel well that comes loose and allows the pipe to vibrate against the chassis.

Hypothesis (since we both have the RMM) - the initial break in period allows this bracket to jog loose which allows the pipe to vibrate against the chassis. Is the initial AC rattle still present on yours? I might pull that area apart to install some dynamat at some point - will check it out if I do.

yeah, I still get a noticeable change in vibration when using the AC. however its noticeably less harsh as to when it was still breaking in, and only present when idling AND having the AC on. on the move, i dont feel it at all.

I personally don't mind, it doesnt bother me much. however you mentioning that a bracket getting loose? that concerns me a little lol. I haven't gotten any weird noises, though. I initially thought the extra vibration was cause the AC compressor starts running, and starts drawing power from the engine, thus causing a higher idle?

 

[slowcountry]

Hmm yeah - I'd agree it's when idling/at a light and AC is on, and mostly prior to full operating temp. Not really noticeable while driving, so I'm with you leaning towards normal noise.

But yeah - just had heard about the bracket so it's stuck in my head as the possible source until ruled out Lol

 

[wdrx02]

I have both of them. the second link you sent is an optional duct that goes towards the wheel well for more air. but you dont need it, the intake is fine by itself.

Just ordered the: 2022+ Honda Civic 1.5T / 2023+ Acura Integra 1.5T High Volume "Plus" Cold Air Intake Duct. For $45 why not? However, do you have pictures of it installed so I get a better idea?

 

[DE4Willyyyy]

Just ordered the: 2022+ Honda Civic 1.5T / 2023+ Acura Integra 1.5T High Volume "Plus" Cold Air Intake Duct. For $45 why not? However, do you have pictures of it installed so I get a better idea?

hey, sorry for the late reply. I hope you managed to get it installed already.

I dont have any pictures, but theres plenty of video installations out there for it. PRL motorsports has their own installation video which is pretty good, too.

the intake itself has a hole on the bottom that you gotta drill out using a wall drill attachment. make sure you have a vacuum and some fine sand paper to smoothen it out and suck out any plastic shavings so it doesnt get into the intake. after that, you just install the duct onto it with the provided tube and hardware. really straight forward, you shouldn't have too much trouble with it.

the difficult part really is opening up the wheel fender and getting the bracket installed so the duct sits well. and then lining up the intake onto the duct, and tightening up the clamps. I'd recommend having a buddy to help you install it, it made it easier for me having a spotter.

 

[wdrx02]

hey, sorry for the late reply. I hope you managed to get it installed already.

I dont have any pictures, but theres plenty of video installations out there for it. PRL motorsports has their own installation video which is pretty good, too.

the intake itself has a hole on the bottom that you gotta drill out using a wall drill attachment. make sure you have a vacuum and some fine sand paper to smoothen it out and suck out any plastic shavings so it doesnt get into the intake. after that, you just install the duct onto it with the provided tube and hardware. really straight forward, you shouldn't have too much trouble with it.

the difficult part really is opening up the wheel fender and getting the bracket installed so the duct sits well. and then lining up the intake onto the duct, and tightening up the clamps. I'd recommend having a buddy to help you install it, it made it easier for me having a spotter.

Quiet alright, hope you had a thankfilled Thanksgiving. Also, I have not recieved either part yet. I may return the side one since I don't have a garage or spotter to do what you just described. I did get the main piece which was around $406 USD (Acura Integra High Volume Intake System). Hopefully this won't require any drilling or additional tools besides a socket wrench. Did you remove the resonator? I noticed there was this, did you get the resonator delete?

Sponsored