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You have to disconnect one of the ends of both struts to reach service position. But that's common for many cars. It's a sliding quick disconnect... Easy.

It's slightly higher than the first position.

WOT Performance hood struts. Had to use a proper riveting gun for the rivnuts. The shadetree nut washer and bolt method wasn't working for me - the rivnuts just kept spinning on the bolt not matter how much normal force I applied. Also, the passenger side hood "mounting" hole was not cleanly...

I'm jealous of Colorado's plate colorway!

What springs are you running, out of curiosity? My H&Rs on stock shocks feels better than many coilovers I've run (e.g. AST, JRZ, etc not Fortune Auto haha).

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Another option- camber plates that are OEM spring and strut compatible. Looks like these are: https://balladesports.com/products/ballade-sports-17-civic-type-r-fk8-front-camber-plate-kit

What about setting your track camber with the alignment pins pulled and top hats pushed to the innermost setting, then pushing the struts back out for the winter? It's not a lot of difference but could be enough to scratch your itch.

Thank you! I just ordered 2 for the light bar only. I like the rest of the lighting white. Appreciate the help!

Question on the LEDs- does one door LED do both the light bar and the door handle, or are those 2 separate LEDs?

Nice mods! Looking good!

If I go double blankets I would not run the heat shields. They're pretty useless anyway.

I'm debating whether to install the Funk Motorsports turbo blanket I just bought, or waiting till the spring. It's getting cold already here and I won't be doing any track days till then. I might end up selling it for now and then doing a catted downpipe in the spring, along with blankets for...

Verdict so far: I noticed a more responsive throttle pedal, by a noticeable amount. Noise hasn't increased by that much, but I was already running the silicone hoses which did increase noise over the OE corrugated plastic ones so I imagine this upgrade would make more noise over bone stock...

PRL inlet tube weeeeeeeeee!

Upgraded to the PRL turbo inlet tube so I no longer need this kit. Works very nicely with the stock air box by replacing the corrugated OE hoses. Turbo noise will be slightly more audible. Asking $50 plus shipping.

Quite easy. Just followed this video: All you need tools wise is a plastic trim tool, 8mm socket and phillips head screwdriver.

The FL5's module is designed to increase engine noise since they had to put a world-compliant quieter exhaust system on it. It doesn't really do much if any sound cancellation. The DE5 is a "luxury" car so its ANC does more sound cancellation rather than generation.

Yes you just swap them out. The one of the right is the original unit. I took the picture on the middle of the job before I installed the FL5 unit in its place.

So I committed what many of you will call a crime today. A while back I bought an active engine sound module from a wrecked FL5, and I installed it today. I test drove FL5s against the DE5 when I was shopping for this car, and one thing I actually liked was the fake engine noise from the Civic...