'25 Integra ASpec CVT Build

[NickyV528]

It was almost certainly from my install on the charge pipe kit - the hardpipe has a 2 bolt bracket on the engine block to hold it in place. I accidentally used the OEM bolt (which is longer) on one of the holes and torqued it off. The single bolt on it creates a pivot point under high load.

This allowed one of the couplers up by the throttle body to come loose. So it's fine for now, but I have to limit boost until fixed. No S drive mode for now.

Taking it for an oil change today and will see if the dealer can get it out, otherwise headed to a machine shop.

I saw those comments about having to drill a bit - hopefully it's simple or not even necessary, but we'll see.

Dude ! I installed my charge pipe in my early stages it was the second mod I didn't secure my coupler going in to the inner cooler and my car was pissing air lol easy fix without the intake in

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[NickyV528]

Keep me posted with the sandwich plate

 

[slowcountry]

Fixed that bolt this weekend - took a bunch of tools that didn't quite work to arrive at... drill it out and tap it. Seems to be solid but will keep an eye on it.

Next up:
Tweak exhaust alignment, adjust rear sway
Brake rotors, brake lines, front calipers, rear caliper bushings install
27won intake snorkel & etl transmission fluid cooler install
Wheel spacers install

 

[DE4Willyyyy]

Fixed that bolt this weekend - took a bunch of tools that didn't quite work to arrive at... drill it out and tap it. Seems to be solid but will keep an eye on it.

Next up:
Tweak exhaust alignment, adjust rear sway
Brake rotors, brake lines, front calipers, rear caliper bushings install
27won intake snorkel & etl transmission fluid cooler install
Wheel spacers install

how does it run now that the bolt is fixed?

 

[slowcountry]

Great! Drove it around all weekend in S drive + Sport mode with no boost leak, maybe driving it at 60-70%. I had been keeping it in comfort mode until the bolt was fixed, so this was liberating Lol

 

[DE4Willyyyy]

Great! Drove it around all weekend in S drive + Sport mode with no boost leak, maybe driving it at 60-70%. I had been keeping it in comfort mode until the bolt was fixed, so this was liberating Lol

thats fucking awesome lol. you take it to the canyons or track yet? really great build so far.

 

[NickyV528]

It was almost certainly from my install on the charge pipe kit - the hardpipe has a 2 bolt bracket on the engine block to hold it in place. I accidentally used the OEM bolt (which is longer) on one of the holes and torqued it off. The single bolt on it creates a pivot point under high load.

This allowed one of the couplers up by the throttle body to come loose. So it's fine for now, but I have to limit boost until fixed. No S drive mode for now.

Taking it for an oil change today and will see if the dealer can get it out, otherwise headed to a machine shop.

I saw those comments about having to drill a bit - hopefully it's simple or not even necessary, but we'll see.

Hey man! So my apologies for the later update. Life is crazy lol. But I officially have a fully functional custom build transmission fluid cooler. I have a heat exchange delete plate, or at least that's what I'm calling it, because that's exactly what it is. This is the link to the only company in the world that makes it. They are based out of Ukraine if you can believe it. Shipping was reasonable for having to go through customs and DHL extorted me for a "Duty" charge of an additional $25 https://maktrans.net/AP-HONDA-CVT. It came in less than seven business days, which is impressive.

Than things got interesting from there. Remind you I already had mounted and ready to rock my 30row plated cooler, with braided lines connected with -8AN fittings leaving slack for when I can get it functional. The plate came with 11.8mmbwuick connects to Barbed (metric because of not being made in the U.S.). This was my first wall because I had AN so I figured let me just get 11.8mm or 7/16 quick connect to AN. DOESNT EVEN EXIST! Even from the company I got the plate. So now wtf do I do? Barbed is a bad idea because regular hoses are not recommended due to the heat and pressure of a high performance, modified, tuned CVT. So after tons or research. I ended up discovering Push lock hoses. 1/2 inch push lock when right over the smooth bore with no adapters. I used 3/4 crimp clamps for guaranteed safety and efficiency. I than used barbed to AN for the other end using the push lock. That shit was mad tight! Again extra protection with crimp clamps. I used two on each end of both in and out lines. My braided lines connected right into the AN male. And BOOM !

That shit was so efficient I'm not even F$cking kidding, I drove my hr commute to work, ripping it the whole way. Temps never reached past 170 degrees F that's too efficient now lol. So being in the North east I got me a Mishimoto inline thermostat. And I am now rocking a fully functional 11th Gen CVT Transmission fluid cooler NO BS heat exhange, because with a sandwich plate it's still in use. So F$ck that approach, no bueno for my plans, straight Air-Fluid. I put my heart and soul into it. It certainly paid off. With an FBO and Tuned Teggy, and insane future plans I am now ready for Phase 2, I'm currently waiting for my wider ultra performance tires to start the phase of building the fastest CVT and shattering the stigma.

 

[slowcountry]

Put on the 27won air intake snorkel a week or two ago. Was kind of cursing the install - requires taking an angle grinder to a part and either cutting or deleting the radiator shroud (I went this route). I didnt read that step until I had the bumper off.

That said, once done it really wasn't that bad. I didnt take pics during install, but below shows the stealthy black snorkel behind the grill:

Recap:

Awaiting Install:

Need to decide if sticking with OEM CVT Fluid or switching to Ravenol or Amsoil.

Future plans:
RV6 Rear Control Arms (Lower A & B)
Apex Wheels w/ Continental DWS06+, PRL Lugs
Ultra Racing Front & Rear Subframe Brace
WOTP HPT Cooling Plate
Wunderladen Idler/Tensioner Pulley

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