What did you do to your Integra Type S today? 🙋🏻‍♂️

[TwinSkrullDesign]

Any tips on removing the A pillars? Mine occasionally rattle against the windshield. I've got some felt tape to address it, but I haven't pulled them off yet.

They’re easy to take off. You can pry using just your hands closest to the windshield. There’s two clips and one of them is a one time use only. Do not take off the A-pillar unless you have the replacement clip.

Once you pop the clips, you pull up gently and the A-pillar will slide off.

Reinstalled my newly upholstered armrest and sun visors.

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[dl8468]

19x9.5 +45 on stock tires

 

[ABPDE5]

They’re easy to take off. You can pry using just your hands closest to the windshield. There’s two clips and one of them is a one time use only. Do not take off the A-pillar unless you have the replacement clip.

Once you pop the clips, you pull up gently and the A-pillar will slide off.

Reinstalled my newly upholstered armrest and sun visors.

Thank you! Good thing I asked... I for sure would have ripped those off without a spare set of clips

 

[TwinSkrullDesign]

Thank you! Good thing I asked... I for sure would have ripped those off without a spare set of clips

This is a good video that explains the clip I’m referring to.

 

[MR_O’s_DE5]

Going to be a busy weekend

 

[Ash @ S2i Audio]

Looks like a fun time! Happy wrenching.

 

[Type-Slow]

Installed the PRL RMM tonight. It adds a little vibration through the pedals, but it's minor. The 1-2 shift is smoother; the car has less wheel hop, and it has eliminated that "rubber-band" feeling when you first get on the throttle.

I did struggle to torque down the horizontal bolt. You need a crowsfoot if you don't remove the front pipe, and it wants to deflect. It might be easier if you have a lift and lots of clearance, but on jack stands with limited room, it was hard to keep the wrench from deflecting. I couldn't quite get it to torque spec for fear of rounding off the bolt.

I had the same experience with getting the front bolt tightened. I just used a long box wrench and calibrated elbow.
The RMM is a great, cheap upgrade.

 

[MR_O’s_DE5]

Looks like a fun time! Happy wrenching.

Well unfortunately not a happy ending, all was well until the downpipe stud snapped off in the turbo… hopefully my mechanic can extract it otherwise the turbo will be coming off..

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Well unfortunately not a happy ending, all was well until the downpipe stud snapped off in the turbo… hopefully my mechanic can extract it otherwise the turbo will be coming off..

Suuuuck.

Can you use an extractor bit?

 

[MR_O’s_DE5]

Suuuuck.

Can you use an extractor bit?

One of my techs is a guru at extracting bolts, so I will leave it up to him to handle it.

 

[Ash @ S2i Audio]

Shouldn't be a problem. They'll get it out.

 

[MR_O’s_DE5]

Shouldn't be a problem. They'll get it out.

That’s exactly what he said. I have seen him extract recessed broken head bolts on 20 year old engines, this should be a walk in the park.

 

[crepr12]

just curious OEM bolt or aftermarket?...

 

[Ash @ S2i Audio]

Jogon matte carbon interior trim installed. I think I might do the door handle covers too, for continuity. Maybe the steering wheel upper cover too (just the piano black upper half).

 

[Ash @ S2i Audio]

Swapped out my OE clutch slave cylinder for a CDV-deleted slave from JSR Engines. The swap was pretty easy. After removing the airbox, I found that rather than breaking the seal between the soft and hard lines like every DIY video I found advises, it's easier to unbolt the bracket assembly of the soft to hard line fitting (see attached photo with red arrow pointing to the 10mm nut to remove) so that once the slave is unbolted from the transmission it can simply be swung down and then back up through the space previously occupied by the lower airbox assembly.

Then it's just a simple matter of sliding out the retaining clip for the hard line fitting on the slave, and quickly reinstalling the hard line onto the new slave (assuming you went the same route as me and bought a pre-modified slave). I lost maybe two drops of hydraulic fluid in this manner.

As for bleeding, I used a vacuum oil extractor with a smaller hose fitting that was snug enough on the bleed nipple to effectively enable me to bleed the slave without a helper. Took maybe five minutes, including master reservoir refilling and a bit of clutch pedal testing. It was one and done as far as bleeding - super easy system to bleed.

As for change in feel, it's obvious. Rapid clutch-outs results in very fast RPM realignment, whereas before there was a good bit of slip before RPMs settled. Next is a tune to remove the throttle plate rev hang and then the shifting is going to be as close to perfect as it can get for a cable actuated transmission!

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