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Change rear pads WITHOUT expensive maintenance mode tool.

koatic

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I know there have been a lot of discussions about which model Autel and such can you use to put the rear parking brake in servicing mode..
Well, I figured out you don't even need a maintenance mode or even a windback tool.
While this worked fine for me be cautious and use this method at your own risk.
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acurax

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Another option, which I used on a TLX I previously owned, may be to remove the electric parking brake actuator and use a torque bit to manually retract the caliper. I would recommend replacing the gasket on the actuator which is sold as part of a kit with the two screws. I was warned that the actuators can sometimes stop working for no other reason than they were removed and reinstalled, but I never encounter this myself. I also used some white lithium grease on the gasket to help ensure it seated correctly when reinstalling the actuator.
 
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koatic

koatic

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The whole reason I wanted to duplicate the “maintenance mode” without the Autel tool was so I wouldn’t break any seals. Especially with the wind back tool with motor off. You can wind it back to far and your caliper is toast. At least this way the using the motor it won’t go back further than the seal
 

acurax

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Unsure if it's different on the Integra, but I don't recall winding it back on the TLX. IIRC, I just activated the electronic parking brake after putting everything back together. The first time it took a little longer, but worked as usual after that.
 

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evanescent03

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Victorofhavoc

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i thougth my GT4 was annoying to change pads on because caliper bolts needed to be removed. this takes the cake ... ugh. whyyyyyy. good info though and at least there are a few options.
Just be smart and use a windback tool. Skip the shenanigans
 

evanescent03

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Just be smart and use a windback tool. Skip the shenanigans
ended up just removing the housing and winding back using the internal part. hardest part is that stupid 7mm hex bolt against the brake line. the engineers definitely did not show us love with this setup lol... could be worse i suppose but wish the setup was more similar to the front of the car.
 

Victorofhavoc

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ended up just removing the housing and winding back using the internal part. hardest part is that stupid 7mm hex bolt against the brake line. the engineers definitely did not show us love with this setup lol... could be worse i suppose but wish the setup was more similar to the front of the car.
I just did a bmw 5 series on Saturday with the same basic caliper (also ate), but slightly different sizing on bolts. On theirs, the back bolt is a female triple square that's 6mm. Their windback is also the 3 pronged one. BMW was nice enough to give owners a vented rear disc ?.

I ended up doing the motor off on that one as well since I didn't have the three prong and the guy forgot his bimmercode cables. BMW book states to do the windback from the front as standard procedure.

First time I've ever seen a pad glued to the caliper though... That's bmw fronts. Took me 45 mins to realize it and rip off the pad ?
 

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evanescent03

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First time I've ever seen a pad glued to the caliper though... That's bmw fronts. Took me 45 mins to realize it and rip off the pad ?
Sounds painful.. I also struggled with the oil filter so frustrating pre-track prep lol. Then I came or Watkins Glen and went into limp mode second session bc fuel tank was empty but showing 1/2 tank… took 11+ gallons when I went to fill up . ? guess I’ll join the “refuel every session team.”.
 

StingertimeNC

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Yep, only takes going into limp mode once to know you don't want to mess around with that.
 

evanescent03

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Yep, only takes going into limp mode once to know you don't want to mess around with that.
the gauge was wildly inaccurate but now i know.... took about 6 gallons for 20min session. will definitely be a challenge going out with Chin for the 40-60 minute sessions lol. got the rev-match malfunction as well but a battery disconnect/reconnect did the trick. as others have noted, I've lost my pops/crackles so I guess i need a full reset at the dealership but at least i was back in business. at least until i started getting a ton of brake judder. never had fade or anything but apparently overheated the XP10s in the front (xp8 looked good in the rear). i expect the jutter to be due to front pad transfer secondary to overheating as they are also very worn.... essentially used up in 2 track days. Wild. I'm going to move up to XP12 to see how they do in my hands and under my foot.
 

Victorofhavoc

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the gauge was wildly inaccurate but now i know.... took about 6 gallons for 20min session. will definitely be a challenge going out with Chin for the 40-60 minute sessions lol. got the rev-match malfunction as well but a battery disconnect/reconnect did the trick. as others have noted, I've lost my pops/crackles so I guess i need a full reset at the dealership but at least i was back in business. at least until i started getting a ton of brake judder. never had fade or anything but apparently overheated the XP10s in the front (xp8 looked good in the rear). i expect the jutter to be due to front pad transfer secondary to overheating as they are also very worn.... essentially used up in 2 track days. Wild. I'm going to move up to XP12 to see how they do in my hands and under my foot.
I just got the xp12 on recently. For the weight of the car it's a more appropriate pad. I wore them about 40% down doing 9 or 10 sessions at 15-20 mins per session on the potenza race tire.

I also got the Rev match code recently and cleared it with a scan tool. I noticed exactly when it came up and it was when a rough rumble shook the car a bit too much, but I attributed it to the crappy 91 eth free fuel that was nearby the track. Some boostane in the tank and it kept going without any more codes.
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