Yeah….i need this as well.shout out to Tw1stedlog1k for doing all the leg work and allowing me to copy you.
I didnt want the PRL Inlet because I didnt want to lose the OEM type S badge. This solves it
Love it, meanwhile my parts are still sitting in boxes LMAO.shout out to Tw1stedlog1k for doing all the leg work and allowing me to copy you.
I didnt want the PRL Inlet because I didnt want to lose the OEM type S badge. This solves it
That's kind of the primary point of two piece rotors. Part of it is reducing rotating mass, a teeny tiny part of the benefit is how it "floats" as the metals expand (but very, very few 2 piece are actual full float - most are no better than a single piece), but by and large the biggest benefit is being able to just replace the ring as it wears rather than replacing the entire rotor. That saves cost over the pin style true float designs (like the oem one on the Q7), but it's still more expensive than a traditional single piece rotor.
Follow star pattern to finger tighten, then follow star pattern to torque to spec. You can use a sharpie to mark the ones you've done so you don't get lost in it.
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The stock endlinks look decent. Will you be reusing them?The most adorable sway bars. These things are small.
I got the the 2018+ accord endlinks.
Good to know about the Hawk pads, never used Red Stuff but was curious, at the same time, I haven't used Hawk either so happy to hear that its not bad. The rotors from Paragon come with new hardware, if I reorder from them hardware will be changed everytime!Follow star pattern to finger tighten, then follow star pattern to torque to spec. You can use a sharpie to mark the ones you've done so you don't get lost in it.
I've done a few dozen ring swaps across my cars and it has never been an issue. I do recommend swapping hardware at least every 3 ring changes.
Also, I'm not a big hawk pad fan, but I like them a lot more than ebc. I had ebc red stuff on my gti for about 1500 miles and then gave them away. They squealed like a dump truck and no amount of bedding helped. Ebc yellow and blue are too touchy on heat range for street use, imo. The hawk ceramics are fine for street use, but you do lose a lot of braking power compared to oem brembo (which are actually a really great performance street pad that can take track abuse, but compromise is dust like you're aware). To me, you lucked out not getting the reds
Initial friction of the oem brembos is so damn difficult to match dude. The mx72’s by endless look better and better but god they’re expensiveThat's kind of the primary point of two piece rotors. Part of it is reducing rotating mass, a teeny tiny part of the benefit is how it "floats" as the metals expand (but very, very few 2 piece are actual full float - most are no better than a single piece), but by and large the biggest benefit is being able to just replace the ring as it wears rather than replacing the entire rotor. That saves cost over the pin style true float designs (like the oem one on the Q7), but it's still more expensive than a traditional single piece rotor.
Follow star pattern to finger tighten, then follow star pattern to torque to spec. You can use a sharpie to mark the ones you've done so you don't get lost in it.
I've done a few dozen ring swaps across my cars and it has never been an issue. I do recommend swapping hardware at least every 3 ring changes.
Also, I'm not a big hawk pad fan, but I like them a lot more than ebc. I had ebc red stuff on my gti for about 1500 miles and then gave them away. They squealed like a dump truck and no amount of bedding helped. Ebc yellow and blue are too touchy on heat range for street use, imo. The hawk ceramics are fine for street use, but you do lose a lot of braking power compared to oem brembo (which are actually a really great performance street pad that can take track abuse, but compromise is dust like you're aware). To me, you lucked out not getting the reds
Yeah the brembo pads are killer from cold. They do well with real heat too, but they just really sacrifice life once you get past 500c. I love them for street driving. They don't interact much with ceramic coatings either, so fairly easy to spray off and clean a coated wheel. I've had a few compounds that will eat away the ceramic coating, and even a few that etch deep into the wheel's clear/paint.
Looks good bro. How hard was it to install the ring?!Installed Paragon front rotors for OEM hats, 350mm rear rotors, with Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads.
Thanks, the install was actually pretty straight forward, installed hardware exactly how it came off the old rotor and torqued as Paragon spelled out on their website. It was a lot less daunting than I was anticipating. Took the better part of the day, but I was doing a lot of cleaning as I was going through, getting rid of all of the old brake dust and cleaning up the calipers. Taking apart the front brakes and putting back together and making sure everything was done correctly, took my time with the fronts to make sure I was doing everything right.
With street pads bed in is fairly straight forward. You can speed it up by finding a safe place to accel and decel to/from 70mph a few times, but even if you don't they'll transfer material normally over a few hundred miles. Ceramic pads are even easier, and just a stop or two from 50mph is enough to bed them.
Yeah I figured its not a big deal, but being such a large investment, I tend to follow what the manufacturer says. Here is what Paragon has for the bed-in process.
