Wastegate Issue After Downpipe Install — Anyone Else Experience This?

[JKTeggy]

Hey everyone,


Just wanted to see if anyone has run into wastegate issues after a downpipe install on their Integra Type S.


I recently had a TSP downpipe installed by a local shop. During the install, they broke the turbo studs and ended up having to remove the turbo housing and take it to a machine shop to drill them out. When I picked the car up, the shop told me it was throwing codes — which surprised me since I’d always heard the TSP downpipe doesn’t trigger any.


At first, I thought maybe my tune wasn’t matching up with the downpipe (I’m Jester Tuned, by the way — and huge shoutout to him, his customer service is absolutely top notch). After talking with Jester, he explained that because the shop removed the turbo housing, the wastegate is likely no longer properly aligned.


I’ve spent the past few days trying to adjust and realign the wastegate, but I just can’t get it right. I’m still throwing codes and can’t clear them anymore. My current readings are Wastegate CMD: 8 and Wastegate Position: around -1.55.


It’s been super frustrating — I got it close to zero a few times, but every micro-adjustment throws it completely off again and brings the codes right back. Jester was awesome and spent hours on the phone with me trying to get it sorted, but no luck yet.


At this point, I’m planning to take it back to the shop so they can use their scan tool to try and dial it back in.


So my questions are:

• Has anyone else run into this wastegate issue after removing or reinstalling the turbo housing?
• How did you fix it?
• If I can’t get it sorted, can I just buy a new wastegate and install it?
• Do new wastegates come pre-calibrated and aligned from the factory?
• And if I replace it myself, am I risking making things worse?

Right now, my car’s stuck in limp mode — all because of a downpipe install and replacing the turbo studs with titanium ones. I have tried clearing the codes, Driving it and re-flashing the tune to clear the codes and to reset the WGCMD back to 0 but no luck.


Appreciate any insight or advice from anyone who’s dealt with this.

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[crepr12]

idk...But it seems "the local shop" screwd up more than the turbo studs. God speed gettiing it sorted

 

[bigfx]

Take it back to your shop, they messed it up and tbh probably didn’t take care of everything so this should be their problem to fix.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Is there an option in your scan tool to relearn the wastegate position?

I haven't messed with the acura wg, but on my vw the electronic wg required a relearn procedure any time you touched it with any micro adjustment. I would expect there's a similar voltage zeroing process where you close it manually and then relearn the positions in the ecu. This was required with new ones as well since they're all slightly different in how the hall sensor and voltage regulate.

Keep in mind, it's required on most German cars, but I believe Honda does a smaller self learn on each turn key start. Have you tried disconnecting the battery and wg for 5 minutes and restarting?

 

[dmd2005]

You need to reset the PCM/ECM and then adjust the screw to the wastegate actuator to read between 1.27 to 1.43. Volts. They probably removed the EWG from the turbo when drilling out the broken studs.

At startup, if voltage is not between that range the car will throw a P003A DTC and can’t calibrate the EWG.

I used an Autel Maxipro to clear the codes first and then reset the PCM/ECU with ignition on and engine off and adjusted the external wastegate actuator down to 1.3V, started up the car and it was able to read and recalibrate the EWG. Had to do this when I installed a Kuro in my FK8 and Kuro+ on my DE5.

Without resetting the PCM, I could not get voltage down between 1.27-1.43V. You will hear the EWG actuator extend and retract when you reset the PCM. It stays extended without resetting the PcM and you cannot get voltage down to proper calibration range for the ECU/PCM at startup.

Full Race has an explanation:

https://www.full-race.com/resources...7gqwxTFW2jI4pPXH4IMLoMKzWqOybQst4wzx8Qb6_W4zc

 

[BlackPearl]

This is the type of nightmare that scares the crap out of me when doing an engine modification! Good luck to you. Sounds like dmd2005 might have your solution. It's great that folks like him share this type of knowledge with all of us. I'm happy to be part of this community!

 

[Victorofhavoc]

You need to reset the PCM/ECM and then adjust the screw to the wastegate actuator to read between 1.27 to 1.43. Volts. They probably removed the EWG from the turbo when drilling out the broken studs.

At startup, if voltage is not between that range the car will throw a P003A DTC and can’t calibrate the EWG.

I used an Autel Maxipro to clear the codes first and then reset the PCM/ECU with ignition on and engine off and adjusted the external wastegate actuator down to 1.3V, started up the car and it was able to read and recalibrate the EWG. Had to do this when I installed a Kuro in my FK8 and Kuro+ on my DE5.

Without resetting the PCM, I could not get voltage down between 1.27-1.43V. You will hear the EWG actuator extend and retract when you reset the PCM. It stays extended without resetting the PcM and you cannot get voltage down to proper calibration range for the ECU/PCM at startup.

Full Race has an explanation:

https://www.full-race.com/resources...7gqwxTFW2jI4pPXH4IMLoMKzWqOybQst4wzx8Qb6_W4zc

Sounds almost identical to what I had to do on my vw ewg.

Good info!

 

[slowcountry]

Not sure if it helps but I had a boost leak issue, was big enough to throw the car into limp mode. I wasn't sure what happened yet, but when I got home I got it out of limp mode by reflashing the tune.

My issue only happened above certain psi so from there I just drove like a granny until I figured out & fixed the boost leak.

 

[creaturemachine]

Man, fuck those studs. Ti in that application doesn't offer any improvements outside the vendor's profits. I too learned the hard way that there's absolutely no reason to swap them out, and didn't have the luxury of a machine shop to get the piece out. Hopefully you can get this fixed because the DP itself is decent.

 

[bisquick]

Man, fuck those studs. Ti in that application doesn't offer any improvements outside the vendor's profits. I too learned the hard way that there's absolutely no reason to swap them out, and didn't have the luxury of a machine shop to get the piece out. Hopefully you can get this fixed because the DP itself is decent.

The reason they are recommended to be replaced is simply due to the fact that one of them typically snaps during installation. Titanium is not harder than alloys like steel, but it is less prone to corrosion which theoretically makes removing the nuts easier the second time around.

 

[creaturemachine]

The reason they are recommended to be replaced is simply due to the fact that one of them typically snaps during installation. Titanium is not harder than alloys like steel, but it is less prone to corrosion which theoretically makes removing the nuts easier the second time around.

On a new car? Not buying it. If they'd left the studs alone that new DP would've bolted up just fine and OP would've been back on the road long ago. Later on when things are old and rusty is when you should have to fight with exhaust studs.

 

[boosted_canoe]

in the service manual, it says to do a PCM reset after installing the turbo.

i would disconnect the battery for an hour to allow for a full reset.

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