Should I use grease or anti-seize when swapping winter tires on Type S?

[Crash99]

Hello all - proud new owner of a 2026 Type S here. I'm about to swap the winter tires - should I use grease or anti-seize on the wheel hubs to prevent seizing? I asked the service department at the Acura dealer, but they were clueless. Thanks so much!

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[acurax]

My winter setup has plastic spacers so I wouldn't if the same is true for you. That said, I've never had a wheel that took anything more than a good knock from my hands or a swift kick from my foot to break loose.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Not grease. Anti-sieze only, and avoid it on the threads at all costs.

If you're going to use antisieze, it should be a thin, thin coating and you should clean the surface of all rust before using it.

I also have never had a problem with a wheel siezing in winter. I keep a rubber mallet around and just tap any stubborn wheels gently, but they rarely get stubborn. This would be more trouble than it's worth imo, but if you're leaving the car outside undriven for weeks at a time in snow it might be more valuable for you.

 

[Frenzal]

Normally, alloy wheels won't seize on the hub. Could happen with steel wheels.

Anti-seize is the way to go.

 

[Mr. LargeCoffee]

I use a thin film of anti-seize on the hub. I’ve had a wheel or two get stuck on the hub pretty good. I always carry a rubber mallet in my car just in case. A few good wacks is usually all it takes to get the wheel off.

 

[Crash99]

Thanks, everybody! My question stems from a Mazda MX-6 GT I had years back that was notorious for the factory alloy wheels seizing, to the point where the dealer warned me about it. A friend of mine had one and even the dealer couldn't get one wheel off when he traded it in. All my cars since then have had complimentary tire rotation at the dealer, so I wasn't sure whether they use anything. My winter wheels do have spacers - I haven't opened the seal yet to see what they're made of. Based on everyone's feedback, I think I'll buy some anti-seize, which I may or may not need until I put the factory wheels back on. We get a lot of snow where I live, but I'm retired so I can mostly control when I drive in it.

 

[akoza]

I've never greased or applied antiseize to the hubs. My rears occasionally get stuck to the hub (my rear summers were stuck yesterday when I swapped to my snow tires). When they're seized, I'll usually screw one lug nut on loosely and bang on the inside of the wheel a few times with a rubber mallet until it breaks loose. Haven't had any issues with that method so far over 10 combined years on my ITS or my previous GTI.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

It's funny how many of us keep a rubber mallet around as a solution to things like this .

I'll also note if it's really, truly stuck and you don't have a rubber mallet, you can stick a heavy wrench or a big hammer in a shoe. Works quite well, actually.

The big risk is really mixed metal interaction. Salty environments make the anode/cathode part bond and rust. That's why these cars, Fords, Chevy, and others that don't galvanize the underside (basically anything not German) also rust within 50ft of leaving the factory. This is also why Ideally you'd use a nickel based antisieze instead of a copper or aluminum based version. But, yeah, just having a rubber mallet and an abrasive red pad to clean up rust works just fine if you're taking the wheels off once per year.

 

[Gremlin85]

Another vote for yes on a very thin coat of anti-seize on the hub. I have lots of experience with this being in New England and driving my car in all seasons. NY is notorious for salt on their roads and the corrosion it causes. Wheel hubs stick and seize all the time.

Apply and spread a very light coat of anti-seize to the hub after vigorous cleaning, ensuring not to leave any on the threads. It should just be a super light coating so it doesn't sling.

What I actually did was use Amsoil HD Metal Protector on my hubs. It dries into a hard wax-like coating and is great for undercoating the vehicle when new. I did this within the first month of ownership. It works great on my hubs and the wheels literally fall right off lol.

 

[SilverRocket]

It's funny how many of us keep a rubber mallet around as a solution to things like this .

I'll also note if it's really, truly stuck and you don't have a rubber mallet, you can stick a heavy wrench or a big hammer in a shoe. Works quite well, actually.

The big risk is really mixed metal interaction. Salty environments make the anode/cathode part bond and rust. That's why these cars, Fords, Chevy, and others that don't galvanize the underside (basically anything not German) also rust within 50ft of leaving the factory. This is also why Ideally you'd use a nickel based antisieze instead of a copper or aluminum based version. But, yeah, just having a rubber mallet and an abrasive red pad to clean up rust works just fine if you're taking the wheels off once per year.

Skip the hammer in a shoe and just use your foot.

20 plus winters of tire changes up in Montreal on all my families cars, I was the resident mechanic with my Quick Jacks and a quick kick with the bottom of the foot on the lower edge of the tire always had it off.

As for cleaning rust on the wheel, maybe not this exact one, but these babies are worth every penny.

https://a.co/d/09acDtty

 

[Crash99]

Thanks again, everybody. I swapped the wheels today - they came off with no problems. It looks like the factory applied something, but it was dried up and discolored (maybe some slight corrosion). At any rate, I applied a little anti-seize and I'm good to go. It definitely drives softer - probably like many of you, I downsized to 18" wheels (Bridgestone Potenza 245/40 RE980AS+ XL).

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