35 profile 19s on 10.5 et 45... any rubbing? I'm running 285/30R19s on 19x10.5 et 48, but was considering 35s.19x10.5 +45 APEX VS-5RS
265/35r19 conti sport 03
Eibach Pro kit
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Are vS5RSs in bronze or motorsports gold? It looks great. Have you autocross with your current setup? No rub, at all?19x10.5 +45 APEX VS-5RS
265/35r19 conti sport 03
Eibach Pro kit
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Are vS5RSs in bronze or motorsports gold? It looks great. Have you autocross with your current setup? No rub, at all?
Beautiful build! I just want to confirm you have 100% no rubbing. None at full lock or under load, etc? I just picked one up and if its not rubbing, your build is going to be my inspiration!I never updated this post with my wheels to help out .. I ended up getting apex vs5rs 19x10.5 +45 and tires conti 285/30/19 no rubbing lowered on H&R ..out mot of pics so you can see different angles hope this helps someone
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Im coming from stock, any issues with the 285/30R19 rubbing? I want to do that setup with the 19x10.5 just dont want to cause any rub.35 profile 19s on 10.5 et 45... any rubbing? I'm running 285/30R19s on 19x10.5 et 48, but was considering 35s.
I am on stock springs. I have absolutely no rubbing with a 285/30R19 on 19.5 x 10.5 et48. Whether or not you would rub with the Eibach Pro Kit, I'm not sure. 20mm (or 25 to be extra safe if you're using them to determine fitment) spacers is a good test.Im coming from stock, any issues with the 285/30R19 rubbing? I want to do that setup with the 19x10.5 just dont want to cause any rub.
Im going to do Eibach Pro Kit and 20mm wheel spacers to get started along with some ground effects. I want to make sure I have a wheel/tire setup that wont rub when I get around to it.
Yep, 275/35 18 RE-71RZ, they rubbed a bit on first install but after about a week or so (including 6 autocross runsI am on stock springs. I have absolutely no rubbing with a 285/30R19 on 19.5 x 10.5 et48. Whether or not you would rub with the Eibach Pro Kit, I'm not sure. 20mm (or 25 to be extra safe if you're using them to determine fitment) spacers is a good test.
@optronix is running those springs (I think) with a very wide 275/35R18 (200TW... maybe the new RZ?) on 18x10 et40, which is very slightly more aggressive fitment than my wheel/tire setup, and I know he originally had a bit of rubbing, despite many posters claiming no rub with lowering springs at 10" et40.
The wheels Im looking at are et47. I saw one guy on here said no rubbing with the 285/30R19 et45 on 10.5s. He was lowered on H&R springs which look to be ever so slightly lower than the Eibach kit. Just dont want to spend a bunch and be disappointed by some rubbing.I am on stock springs. I have absolutely no rubbing with a 285/30R19 on 19.5 x 10.5 et48. Whether or not you would rub with the Eibach Pro Kit, I'm not sure. 20mm (or 25 to be extra safe if you're using them to determine fitment) spacers is a good test.
@optronix is running those springs (I think) with a very wide 275/35R18 (200TW... maybe the new RZ?) on 18x10 et40, which is very slightly more aggressive fitment than my wheel/tire setup, and I know he originally had a bit of rubbing, despite many posters claiming no rub with lowering springs at 10" et40.
Aesthetics are much better with a drop, imo. I was on the fence, but I decided to stay on stock springs, as you introduce some (correctable) geometry issues (like F/R camber relationship, roll center, and bump steer) and you also give up a significant portion of the optimal operating range of the front suspension re: dynamic camber (the design attempts to minimize the camber change that a mcpherson strut exhibits during compression... it performs extremely well in the first 20-25mm of compression but begins to trend more closely towards standard mcstrut behavior as compression increases). I didn't want to have to run significant negative camber up front to compensate.The wheels Im looking at are et47. I saw one guy on here said no rubbing with the 285/30R19 et45 on 10.5s. He was lowered on H&R springs which look to be ever so slightly lower than the Eibach kit. Just dont want to spend a bunch and be disappointed by some rubbing.
You have some pics of your ride? Id like to see that on the stock height. I might not even need to lower.
Yeah, I have to agree. It definitely looks marginally better with the slight drop. I also dont know how the ground effects I was planning on would look without the drop.Aesthetics are much better with a drop, imo. I was on the fence, but I decided to stay on stock springs, as you introduce some (correctable) geometry issues (like F/R camber relationship, roll center, and bump steer) and you also give up a significant portion of the optimal operating range of the front suspension re: dynamic camber (the design attempts to minimize the camber change that a mcpherson strut exhibits during compression... it performs extremely well in the first 20-25mm of compression but begins to trend more closely towards standard mcstrut behavior as compression increases). I didn't want to have to run significant negative camber up front to compensate.
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There is no specific amount to correct for it. All Mcpherson's suffer dynamic camber changes under compression, but the dual-axis design attempts to mitigate this. It is most effective at minor compression (performing admirably close to double-wishbone for what it is), but performance trends towards that of a standard mcstrut under significant compression (it's not linear). Adding baseline negative camber can help compensate for the effects at significant compression, where you start to gain positive camber (this is pronounced with a drop, as you are essentially already "compressed" relative to stock ride height). The downside is that, when you aren't under compression, running that much negative camber can accelerate tire degradation.Yeah, I have to agree. It definitely looks marginally better with the slight drop. I also dont know how the ground effects I was planning on would look without the drop.
The technical stuff of the suspension movement is a little over my head but I vaguely understand what youre describing. How much camber would be needed to correct the negative effects of dropping it the 1in. Is this something that would be seen on an alignment machine or would the person doing the alignment need a desired spec?