Clicking noise from left front ONLY when turning right...

[Tuna_de5]

I'm bumping this thread sorry but I just wanted to add something here. I put my apex's on my car back in 2024 when it had around 3 k miles. Just lowered and got new tires and I have the exact clicking sound with the vs5rs when turning left lol. So it's definitely a problem on these cars/wheels. I managed to tear a ps4s off the bead on my rear left on mine as well and one was not holding air by the time I swapped tires. It would lose a couple psi after like a week. Honestly it was totally fine for the amount of time I ran them but the gen 1 VS5RS does not like Michelins. I presume that it has gotten better. On firestone indy 500v2 and no problems at all fingers crossed.

Sponsored

 

[Tuna_de5]

I'm bumping this thread sorry but I just wanted to add something here. I put my apex's on my car back in 2024 when it had around 3 k miles. Just lowered and got new tires and I have the exact clicking sound with the vs5rs when turning left lol. So it's definitely a problem on these cars/wheels. I managed to tear a ps4s off the bead on my rear left on mine as well and one was not holding air by the time I swapped tires. It would lose a couple psi after like a week. Honestly it was totally fine for the amount of time I ran them but the gen 1 VS5RS does not like Michelins. I presume that it has gotten better. On firestone indy 500v2 and no problems at all fingers crossed.

also just wanted to add with tons of hard driving and frequent rotations I was down to 50% tread on all for with around 27-28 thousand miles of driving.

 

[ABPDE5]

I'm bumping this thread sorry but I just wanted to add something here. I put my apex's on my car back in 2024 when it had around 3 k miles. Just lowered and got new tires and I have the exact clicking sound with the vs5rs when turning left lol. So it's definitely a problem on these cars/wheels.

Other factor is lowering springs.

 

[Tuna_de5]

Other factor is lowering springs.

it could be but its never under any suspension compression. Only when turning right at speed.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

it could be but its never under any suspension compression. Only when turning right at speed.

Castor changes can effect tie rod movement range, but not as much as lowering. When you remove the strut in front, it's possible to get a different castor. Especially with pins pulled. Higher camber and more extreme offsets will also put more stress on the wheel bearing and axle bolts. Lowering changes tie rod angle, too.

Factory car is also designed with fairly tight packaging and gives reasonable full range for turning, but it's still limited at the very outer edge of movement. Lower the car without changing pickup points and you're now dealing with a compressed suspension as your starting point. Your range to turn the wheel right and left will definitely be more limited. The oem was never intending for full lock steering with a 1" compression over the front end because it's just not a real use case (unless lowering).

All that is to say that the clicking is probably coming from either limited movement with the tie rod, end link, or cv axle, or from something loose that wasn't tightened back down well, like strut top bolts (unlikely), axle bolts, or even wheel lugs.

Given it's only one way and the way it's been described, I would suspect it's the cv axle just being placed in an extreme angle. It could also easily be a sum of small things, like castor, camber, and endlink tension working together to pull on the axle or strut at the extreme end of range.

 

[Tuna_de5]

Castor changes can effect tie rod movement range, but not as much as lowering. When you remove the strut in front, it's possible to get a different castor. Especially with pins pulled. Higher camber and more extreme offsets will also put more stress on the wheel bearing and axle bolts. Lowering changes tie rod angle, too.

Factory car is also designed with fairly tight packaging and gives reasonable full range for turning, but it's still limited at the very outer edge of movement. Lower the car without changing pickup points and you're now dealing with a compressed suspension as your starting point. Your range to turn the wheel right and left will definitely be more limited. The oem was never intending for full lock steering with a 1" compression over the front end because it's just not a real use case (unless lowering).

All that is to say that the clicking is probably coming from either limited movement with the tie rod, end link, or cv axle, or from something loose that wasn't tightened back down well, like strut top bolts (unlikely), axle bolts, or even wheel lugs.

Given it's only one way and the way it's been described, I would suspect it's the cv axle just being placed in an extreme angle. It could also easily be a sum of small things, like castor, camber, and endlink tension working together to pull on the axle or strut at the extreme end of range.

welp got the car aligned after getting front ball joints installed and it went away. Thank you for responding so thoroughly. Makes sense as lowering springs are going to fundamentally mess with the stock geometry of the car.

Sponsored