also I wanted to add, don't get me wrong. I am absolutely working with a sub optimal situation, its the balance between getting the looks and dynamics to work. I just think its an interesting conversation as you are sort of working outside of the norm as am I.
I used to run a 275-30 ps4s before I did front ball joints and H and R lowering springs and was getting really bad rollover because I didn't have as much negative camber at the time. Currently the 35 (indy 500v2) has absolutely helped with that at the expense of a smidge of initial turn-in but...
Absolutely makes sense. I know its more about the shape of the contact patch rather than the width. All seasons definitely don't help. But once again for daily driving do you really need high performance tires? 90% of the time you aren't ever driving hard enough to notice the difference.
Also...
welp got the car aligned after getting front ball joints installed and it went away. Thank you for responding so thoroughly. Makes sense as lowering springs are going to fundamentally mess with the stock geometry of the car.
I also wanted to mention I am perfectly happy to accept OBO. want these to get rid of these as its stupid that I have such high quality parts just lying around that need to get on someone's ride.
Hey there, I lowered my car on H and R’s and ended up not needing rear camber arms as I was happy with alignment. These are brand new unopened and unused.
I’ll charge $385 for the set and I’ll cover your shipping as long as you are in the U.S. can email you a tracking number as soon as I get it...
also just wanted to add with tons of hard driving and frequent rotations I was down to 50% tread on all for with around 27-28 thousand miles of driving.
I'm bumping this thread sorry but I just wanted to add something here. I put my apex's on my car back in 2024 when it had around 3 k miles. Just lowered and got new tires and I have the exact clicking sound with the vs5rs when turning left lol. So it's definitely a problem on these cars/wheels...
Thats why light drying aids are really helpful. If you like washing your car but want to be quick. Use a sealant/coating as your base. Then every time you wash use a quick detailer of your choice when you go to towel dry the car to add a smidge bit of protection. I really like ethos finish...
It highly depends on the quality of the wax itself. Older school waxes tend to sheet water more than bead. Newer developed high quality waxes tend to keep that water beading property. Of course the gloss doesn't hold as long as a naked car because of the slickness of a ceramic coating but check...
I use Fireball's shooter bright ceramic coating. I've had it on the car since the fall and its really impressed me. I top it off with ethos finish shine as a drying aid and if I really feel like it I like to throw a wax on it when the weather is nice.
Also I just want to give a shoutout to Pop's tire shop. If you're in the San Francisco Bay Area a need a shop to work on anything suspension related reach out to them. Wonderful group of guys that are total car guys. Couldn't have a greater group of people to work with. After getting ghosted by...
So it has been done. I think I am sort of venturing into fairly unknown territory but so far for hard road driving the car feels wonderful with the addition of the whiteline rear sway bar. But as I expected the rear camber went WAY too high. I'm sitting around -2.2 (pins pulled) in the front and...
Agreed, everytime you muck with anything especially chassis related. You have to expect that you’re messing with perfection. But that’s where people like us come in