BUILT: Digital Factory Infotainment Integration for ELS Studio

[Ash @ S2i Audio]

The black harness is just for the 6.5 inch door woofers. The other speakers use different connectors that I haven't sussed out yet, so you'll have to tap if you're replacing those speakers.

As for parallel speakers, no the way that works is that the split in wiring is happening elsewhere in the harness. The actual plugs to the speakers are dedicated to each speaker.

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[Ash @ S2i Audio]

It occurred to me after someone just asked me in DMs, that I should let yall know that the user/installation manual is posted and has a lot of information that you might find useful if you're considering PURE:

PURE User Manual

 

[ABPDE5]

Did you have to extend the pigtail to reach the passenger seat?

Sorry for all the Qs... just mapping this out in my head. I want to have a pretty good idea of what I'm signing up for before I dive in.

 

[Ash @ S2i Audio]

Yes, but you have two options

You can either extend the pigtail yourself with your own wires, or
Purchase the upgraded length from me (check out my store for the details)

 

[Victorofhavoc]

So in theory, could you use your device to split to an aftermarket 8 channel amp that pushes more power to the speakers you care most about, not need an extra amp at the sub, and still push to the factory amp for the rest of the speakers?

I'm just too ocd to leave speakers in the car that don't work at all. It would drive me bonkers.

 

[Ash @ S2i Audio]

First off, hahahahha I love you man.

Second, in no circumstance can the PURE run alongside the factory amp. It replaces it, period (for the digital circuit reasons I previously stated).

So no, you can't run a DSP amp to some speakers and use the OEM amp for the rest if using PURE. If you insist on doing that you have to do it the classic way, using a DSP to tap off analog speaker level outputs from the OEM amp and doing all the de-tuning to get back to a flat response.

 

[UWU-mancer]

Bros it is literally easier to wire up c4 with a wireless rams m152 detonator

I dunno wtf yall are even on about

 

[Ash @ S2i Audio]

Don't make me call St Oya, bro

 

[UWU-mancer]

Don't make me call St Oya, bro

Broooooo

 

[Victorofhavoc]

First off, hahahahha I love you man.

Second, in no circumstance can the PURE run alongside the factory amp. It replaces it, period (for the digital circuit reasons I previously stated).

So no, you can't run a DSP amp to some speakers and use the OEM amp for the rest if using PURE. If you insist on doing that you have to do it the classic way, using a DSP to tap off analog speaker level outputs from the OEM amp and doing all the de-tuning to get back to a flat response.

Lol, I know who I am and I'm honest about it... For better or worse .

Thanks for clarifying. Sounds like in my case I should either go with an amp at the sub like originally planned or look for a 12ch amp (Hella cash for those...) Might be easier to just swap out the its for an 86 and an m3 . I hate the clutch, steering, steering wheel, and shifter in the m3 much more than the its but damn if everything else isn't 10x the car... I also don't want to get rid of my q7. It's just too good of a panzer tank, especially in winter. I'm just upset the mediocre bose in the Q7 sounds so much better than the els.

 

[Ash @ S2i Audio]

I hear you. But I want to make one last point not to convince you to buy my device but to counter what I think is a bad decision on your part (purely IMHO and I think we know each other well enough that you'll know to take it as opinion only).

The two pairs of speakers I am suggesting you disable are the roof speakers which are tiny 1"x4" doodads and the C pillar whizzers which are 2" round flat diaphragms. That leaves 8 channels to drive, including the subwoofer. These are the channels that actually contribute to good sound staging rather than harm it.

A single Match UP10 DSP would be able to power this whole system perfectly, including the sub using its two 160W channels which you can use on your DVC subwoofer. You'd have a single channel left over that you can leave unused for better dynamic power, or you could run the rear c pillar whizzers in mono and time delayed for a spacious music hall effect.

This would sound incredible compared with stock and you would no longer have to deal with the non linear volume characteristics of the factory amplifier tuning.

That's what I would do for a budget-but-still-audiophile grade setup.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

I hear you. But I want to make one last point not to convince you to buy my device but to counter what I think is a bad decision on your part (purely IMHO and I think we know each other well enough that you'll know to take it as opinion only).

The two pairs of speakers I am suggesting you disable are the roof speakers which are tiny 1"x4" doodads and the C pillar whizzers which are 2" round flat diaphragms. That leaves 8 channels to drive, including the subwoofer. These are the channels that actually contribute to good sound staging rather than harm it.

A single Match UP10 DSP would be able to power this whole system perfectly, including the sub using its two 160W channels which you can use on your DVC subwoofer. You'd have a single channel left over that you can leave unused for better dynamic power, or you could run the rear c pillar whizzers in mono and time delayed for a spacious music hall effect.

This would sound incredible compared with stock and you would no longer have to deal with the non linear volume characteristics of the factory amplifier tuning.

That's what I would do for a budget-but-still-audiophile grade setup.

Is there an amp option that's not going to end up 1400$+?

I just don't think I'm going to keep this car more than another year or two honestly. I'm going to get my racecar back up and running, and this will just become a street car again. With 3 kids now it can't shuttle the family even short distances, so I probably won't keep it when my middle kid can ride front facing. At that point I'll either get another fast 2 door for fun use or I'll get an m3 + a slow 2 door for street use. I keep going back and forth. Every time I drive this car on a chip sealed road I'm cursing Honda to no end. When I have the windows down I enjoy it, but at that point the sound system is doing nothing.

If I could drop 400$ on the sound system I'd be happy, but above that it's just personally not worth it.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Also, happy 4th everybody!

 

[Ash @ S2i Audio]

Word. I get it!

 

[Ash @ S2i Audio]

Also, happy 4th everybody!

You too! And all my friends here

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