"Crunchiness" in all gears - normal or not?

[ABPDE5]

Mine's always a little "crunchy" until it warms up. Once it warms up and I beat on it a lil, it gets nice.

I changed transmission fluid at 10k with OEM fluid which made a nice improvement. Changed again at 23k with AC Delco synchromesh and it's like pure butter. 2nd gear hesitation is almost gone too.

Similar experience... AC Delco worked wonders.

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[APBonABP]

Yeah, from your description it sounds more like some sort of vibration coming through. Do you have any way to reproduce it consistently?

Fun fact, I had a random 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear grind that randomly appeared after an oil change. Then I realized it wasn't a grind, it was a rattle. Jacked up the car and realized the dealer people forgot to put a bolt back in the belly pan and that resulted in a weird and random rattle/grind feeling that would occur between shifts and around 30-40mph...

Yours doesn't sound like mine, but it does sound more rattle like than gear crunch.

I haven't found a way to reproduce it super consistently, except for shifting into the same gear a few times in a row or really pushing towards the edges of the gates when shifting, but I'd sort of expect it to "crunch" in the latter case. Good call on checking for vibrations, though. I have noticed an exterior rattle crept up recently, so maybe it's contributing, although I've also had this since I bought the car and left it since I thought it might "break in".

Hard to tell exactly what you're experiencing based on posting here, unfortunately. The transmission in this car can feel a little crunchy in my experience. In my case, swapping transmission fluid eliminated a lot of it.

If you are just experiencing some "feedback" crunchiness, and you don't have issues going into gear or popping out of gear, I wouldn't stress about it too much. That said, I would not mess with the CDV or damper if you're currently having anxiety over the transmission, as that will likely void warranty. The transmission is covered for 6 years / 70k... if I were you, and I was anxious about the transmission, I'd make the most of the coverage I paid for when I bought the car and spend the rest of the warranty period waiting to see of there's actually ever a serious sign of malfunction beyond some "crunchy" feedback.

Change the fluid, drive the car, wait to see if you encounter more definitive symptoms of a mechanical issue, and if you get close to the end of the warranty period and still feel anxious, make a decision then.

I'm not sure if it's "feedback" crunchiness or not, I was hoping to gauge what other people have experienced and see if it's that, or something more (but I know it's hard to judge from text and not driving). I personally think it's kind of unpleasant and detrimental to the driving experience, so I'm hoping it's not "normal", but if so then I suppose it is what it is - though it'd surprise me given the rave reviews for this gearbox.

I may try changing the fluid yet, though, as that's a remedy I haven't attempted yet.

Mine's always a little "crunchy" until it warms up. Once it warms up and I beat on it a lil, it gets nice.

I changed transmission fluid at 10k with OEM fluid which made a nice improvement. Changed again at 23k with AC Delco synchromesh and it's like pure butter. 2nd gear hesitation is almost gone too.

You know it's funny that you mention this because if I shift the **** out of it for a bit, it does seem smoother afterwards and I thought that maybe I was just crazy. I do think I'm going to try the fluid change next, as everyone seems to have nothing but positives to say about it.

 

[APBonABP]

Okay so a little update on this. I took it to Acura and they drove it but didn't do any further tests, concluding it was normal.

I didn't exactly agree, so I finally just took it to an independent shop and had the clutch master cylinder replaced and the difference is... significant. Whereas before I was getting "crunch" on just about every or every other shift regardless of technique, I now only occasionally get it and when I do, I know It's something I've done "wrong", like trying to hurry it a little too much.

I'd like to think I could get the expense covered by Acura since I feel like it should technically be a warranty thing, but I'm not holding my breath and I'm just glad it's shifting better. I'll probably try the ACDelco fluid at some point just to smooth it out a little more, but it's much more enjoyable now.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Okay so a little update on this. I took it to Acura and they drove it but didn't do any further tests, concluding it was normal.

I didn't exactly agree, so I finally just took it to an independent shop and had the clutch master cylinder replaced and the difference is... significant. Whereas before I was getting "crunch" on just about every or every other shift regardless of technique, I now only occasionally get it and when I do, I know It's something I've done "wrong", like trying to hurry it a little too much.

I'd like to think I could get the expense covered by Acura since I feel like it should technically be a warranty thing, but I'm not holding my breath and I'm just glad it's shifting better. I'll probably try the ACDelco fluid at some point just to smooth it out a little more, but it's much more enjoyable now.

File a report with acura national.

Based on feedback I got last year and the recent targeted survey on service experience, it sounds like they're finally paying attention.

I would document your dealer visit, take the report they gave you, and ask the indy shop to write a report of what they did. When acura calls you, they will follow the "coaching protocol" to the letter. This is, ask you for you experience and concern, and repeat "what else" at you until you say "nothing else" and then they will ask you, "what can we do for you?" and this is where you tell them "recoup parts and labor, then document it with the dealer service department as a warranty-able event so the part is covered in the future." They may refuse the labor, but I doubt they'll refuse parts cost.

 

[UWU-mancer]

My 9th gen si coupe had the dealer swap the cmc 3 freaking times. Huge gnarly known issue. 4th swap I bought an aftermarket one. No issues ever after that. Not when it got turbo charged. Not when it got built with individual throttle bodies and abused like a mf either

-type s-

I did get some very occasional crunch since day one but the vast majority of the time it was only from first to second if the motor was cold. And from third to second

about 2-3 weeks ago at 6k miles. Drained the trans and refilled with amsoil synchromesh. Rowing definitely feels way smoother. The “almost gonna bind” sensation has disappeared. And the third to second crunch that happened every blue moon hasn’t happened at all. From then to now I must’ve put about 200 miles on it

if U wanna try amsoil. I have an account bro. I can buy, ship to you and I screenshot the email with the invoice and we settle up? Offer is open to everyone

 

[APBonABP]

File a report with acura national.

Based on feedback I got last year and the recent targeted survey on service experience, it sounds like they're finally paying attention.

I would document your dealer visit, take the report they gave you, and ask the indy shop to write a report of what they did. When acura calls you, they will follow the "coaching protocol" to the letter. This is, ask you for you experience and concern, and repeat "what else" at you until you say "nothing else" and then they will ask you, "what can we do for you?" and this is where you tell them "recoup parts and labor, then document it with the dealer service department as a warranty-able event so the part is covered in the future." They may refuse the labor, but I doubt they'll refuse parts cost.

This is great advice, thank you! It's a shame they likely won't cover the labor since that's the more expensive part (I think I only paid like $100 for the CMC), but I would definitely like to at least get it warrantied (and documented on the off chance Honda/Acura corporate start taking the shifting stuff a little more seriously... still not holding that breath lol).

My 9th gen si coupe had the dealer swap the cmc 3 freaking times. Huge gnarly known issue. 4th swap I bought an aftermarket one. No issues ever after that. Not when it got turbo charged. Not when it got built with individual throttle bodies and abused like a mf either

-type s-

I did get some very occasional crunch since day one but the vast majority of the time it was only from first to second if the motor was cold. And from third to second

about 2-3 weeks ago at 6k miles. Drained the trans and refilled with amsoil synchromesh. Rowing definitely feels way smoother. The “almost gonna bind” sensation has disappeared. And the third to second crunch that happened every blue moon hasn’t happened at all. From then to now I must’ve put about 200 miles on it

if U wanna try amsoil. I have an account bro. I can buy, ship to you and I screenshot the email with the invoice and we settle up? Offer is open to everyone

Yeah mine was definitely really bad from day one, and no amount of adjusting the CMC, changing my shift habits or technique, or letting the car warm up would really fix it (except for beating the snot out of it for some reason)... but now I see why!

The shop might have thought I was crazy swapping the CMC at less than 5k on the clock but when they were done they told me it felt way better and it definitely did. I've already got the ACDelco burning a hole on a shelf but if I end up not liking it I'll definitely hit you up, thank you!

I have had many manual transmission cars overvtge years. Both street cars and race cars. I have had everything from vettes, Miatas, RX7, Opel, GTI, BRZ etc. The transmission in my Type S is probably the most “notchy” trans mission i’ve ever driven. The second gear issue reminds me of what it was like when the sychro’s would go on a race car. And I only have 3500 miles on it. Really giving some thought of selling it. The trans in these cars are not good.

Given what I've experienced... I'd say bring it to Acura. See if you can pester them into replacing the master cylinder, slave cylinder, or both. Or see about having a shop do it, or DIY it, and try the route Victor mentioned above.

I think it's a really rewarding transmission when it works right, it just sucks that Honda doesn't seem to want to make sure they all work with the same degree of satisfaction from the factory.

 

[UWU-mancer]

This is great advice, thank you! It's a shame they likely won't cover the labor since that's the more expensive part (I think I only paid like $100 for the CMC), but I would definitely like to at least get it warrantied (and documented on the off chance Honda/Acura corporate start taking the shifting stuff a little more seriously... still not holding that breath lol).





Yeah mine was definitely really bad from day one, and no amount of adjusting the CMC, changing my shift habits or technique, or letting the car warm up would really fix it (except for beating the snot out of it for some reason)... but now I see why!

The shop might have thought I was crazy swapping the CMC at less than 5k on the clock but when they were done they told me it felt way better and it definitely did. I've already got the ACDelco burning a hole on a shelf but if I end up not liking it I'll definitely hit you up, thank you!





Given what I've experienced... I'd say bring it to Acura. See if you can pester them into replacing the master cylinder, slave cylinder, or both. Or see about having a shop do it, or DIY it, and try the route Victor mentioned above.

I think it's a really rewarding transmission when it works right, it just sucks that Honda doesn't seem to want to make sure they all work with the same degree of satisfaction from the factory.

Oh you’ll like the ac delco. The only people that won’t like the ac delco or amsoil are folks that are tracking and need that one motul that’s a tick thicker than the amsoil

plz do share your thoughts after U swap the fluid and get a few miles in? It’s not gonna be super transformative but will feel nice.

 

[SeanIsElsewhere]

I have an ASpec and experiencing si Iliad since taking delivery at <5 miles. Thought maybe someone messed up the trans within those first few.
What exactly should I be buying to do the MT fluid myself? Just want to make sure I get the right stuff for our trans. Been hearing a lot of back and forth on what to get

 

[UWU-mancer]

I have an ASpec and experiencing si Iliad since taking delivery at <5 miles. Thought maybe someone messed up the trans within those first few.
What exactly should I be buying to do the MT fluid myself? Just want to make sure I get the right stuff for our trans. Been hearing a lot of back and forth on what to get

Research the fluid options. See which weight you’d like more. There’s a few as thick as stock. A few a tick thicker. And a couple that’s two ticks thicker than stock.

U just need the crush washers. You can get those at the dealer.

Figure out what the capacity is. Then send it.

After a few weeks. When U can formulate an opinion. Come back and share? It’ll definitely help other a spec guys in the future.

 

[SeanIsElsewhere]

Research the fluid options. See which weight you’d like more. There’s a few as thick as stock. A few a tick thicker. And a couple that’s two ticks thicker than stock.

U just need the crush washers. You can get those at the dealer.

Figure out what the capacity is. Then send it.

After a few weeks. When U can formulate an opinion. Come back and share? It’ll definitely help other a spec guys in the future.

Roger that I have the washers and some oem fluid but really want to go with an aftermarket option as others have said they’ve had better results. I’d like to stick near oem weight/thickness but don’t know what brand is highest recommended or what additives to look for/omit I.e friction modifiers

 

[UWU-mancer]

Roger that I have the washers and some oem fluid but really want to go with an aftermarket option as others have said they’ve had better results. I’d like to stick near oem weight/thickness but don’t know what brand is highest recommended or what additives to look for/omit I.e friction modifiers

No friction modifiers are advised since you have a helical lsd

Look up redline MT LV. It’s praised for being great and iirc its viscosity is like oem mtf (I’m working off of memory so plz fact check LOL)

 

[SeanIsElsewhere]

No friction modifiers are advised since you have a helical lsd

Look up redline MT LV. It’s praised for being great and iirc its viscosity is like oem mtf (I’m working off of memory so plz fact check LOL)

Appreciate the input good sir I’ll look into the redline stuffs

 

[APBonABP]

I have an ASpec and experiencing si Iliad since taking delivery at <5 miles. Thought maybe someone messed up the trans within those first few.
What exactly should I be buying to do the MT fluid myself? Just want to make sure I get the right stuff for our trans. Been hearing a lot of back and forth on what to get

I've generally heard good things about the ACDelco 10-4014 (though as above, I haven't personally tried it yet). It's one step up in weight from, but ends up being only just slightly above the viscosity of, the factory fluid, with added friction modifiers to reduce the overall lubricity slightly.

This sounds counterintuitive, but my understanding is that the slight increase in friction allows the synchronizers to match the speed of the gears more quickly and thus engage more cleanly. As UwU noted, because the LSD is a helical gear type, friction modifiers shouldn't cause any issues (note: I'm not speaking as any sort of expert here; this is all apocryphal "Honda lore" as it were, so grain of salt).

You'll also want two 20mm crush washers (part no. 94109-20000); one each for the fill and drain plugs, and a 6mm crush washer for the check plug (part no. 90442-R7G-000). I got both of these from my local Honda dealership.


That said, have you tried adjusting your CMC and checking your clutch pedal stroke against the factory spec? Mine was a good bit shorter than it should have been and while ultimately my entire CMC needed replaced, adjusting it did help a bit, led me to suspect what the true issue was, and for many people seems to be the only fix they need. It takes maybe 5-10 minutes once you're familiar with it, so it's an easier first troubleshooting step than a full fluid flush.

 

[UWU-mancer]

I've generally heard good things about the ACDelco 10-4014 (though as above, I haven't personally tried it yet). It's one step up in weight from, but ends up being only just slightly above the viscosity of, the factory fluid, with added friction modifiers to reduce the overall lubricity slightly.

This sounds counterintuitive, but my understanding is that the slight increase in friction allows the synchronizers to match the speed of the gears more quickly and thus engage more cleanly. As UwU noted, because the LSD is a helical gear type, friction modifiers shouldn't cause any issues (note: I'm not speaking as any sort of expert here; this is all apocryphal "Honda lore" as it were, so grain of salt).

You'll also want two 20mm crush washers (part no. 94109-20000); one each for the fill and drain plugs, and a 6mm crush washer for the check plug (part no. 90442-R7G-000). I got both of these from my local Honda dealership.


That said, have you tried adjusting your CMC and checking your clutch pedal stroke against the factory spec? Mine was a good bit shorter than it should have been and while ultimately my entire CMC needed replaced, adjusting it did help a bit, led me to suspect what the true issue was, and for many people seems to be the only fix they need. It takes maybe 5-10 minutes once you're familiar with it, so it's an easier first troubleshooting step than a full fluid flush.

No bro. If it’s got friction modifiers than it’s the wrong spec of fluid

the helical lsd is mechanical. The friction modifiers won’t damage it any. I believe the additive will damage the synchros tho? I’m just not sure how?

sorry if I somehow confused you any man. Didn’t mean to

but yeah. Avoid the friction modifiers.

 

[APBonABP]

No bro. If it’s got friction modifiers than it’s the wrong spec of fluid

the helical lsd is mechanical. The friction modifiers won’t damage it any. I believe the additive will damage the synchros tho? I’m just not sure how?

sorry if I somehow confused you any man. Didn’t mean to

but yeah. Avoid the friction modifiers.

Interesting... maybe I'm misunderstanding but I bought the ACDelco Syncromesh 10-4014 everyone swears by and it definitely says "Friction Modified" on the label. I think theoretically friction modifiers could increase wear on the synchros because they're likely ever so slightly more abrasive as a consequence of the added friction. But I'll definitely reiterate that I'm not an expert in this subject, either.

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