Would you buy this ITS?

[StingertimeNC]

Think hard about the PPF. the best time to do it is before anything is on the car, and there are no blemishes. I honestly think you shpould skip the prep work for ceramic. Like Optronix, my car was spotless at delivery and the paint was very smooth and beautiful.

Also, when you do the first wash, it should not be touchless. you can do the foam cannon as a presoak, then do a normal wash with very little/no hand pressure and plenty of soap. Use small microfiber towels or a special terry/microfiber wash mit. If it's wet and soapy, then you will not be adding any scratches or blemishes by doing this, and you'll make sure all dirt is removed. Then proper drying with pre-moistened microfiber towels. Once dry yoyu can then get an idea if there's anything else left on the paint. If you feel anything, then claybar it yourself. Very easy with plenty of tutorials on you tube. Then wash again and it's ready to roll.

If you can save the ceramic prep fee, then maybe you can do PPF on the front bumper and hood. If you properly care for the car, the PPF could last you 5-8 years easy. The bumper has lots of tough spots to ppf so may not be super cheap, but that's the best bang for the buck. It's highly likely the car will not need any paint correction whatsoever. Just my 2 cents

 

[StingertimeNC]

$600 for labor doesn't seem too bad, but at that rate, you likely could shop around and get EVERYTHING done for ~$800 which puts you in the same spot and you don't have to lift a finger.

Personally, if I had to pick between the two, I would get PPF to protect from chips and can the ceramic coat. Like @optronix said above, ceramic coating in the end is a glorified wax - it is a sacrificial layer. The ITS is lowered and is more susceptible to to rocks and pebbles on the road. PPF is protective, Ceramic not so much (from physical damage anyway).

That's how I've done it with our other cars. Partial front on my truck, full front on my wife's SUV - no ceramic on both. You can apply a hardier "sealant" like collinite 845 and you can stretch that protection a few months if you use a QuickWax as a drying aid when you wash.

Ha, you beat me to it! PPF is the only thing worth paying for.

 

[lumper]

$600 for labor doesn't seem too bad, but at that rate, you likely could shop around and get EVERYTHING done for ~$800 which puts you in the same spot and you don't have to lift a finger.

Personally, if I had to pick between the two, I would get PPF to protect from chips and can the ceramic coat. Like @optronix said above, ceramic coating in the end is a glorified wax - it is a sacrificial layer. The ITS is lowered and is more susceptible to to rocks and pebbles on the road. PPF is protective, Ceramic not so much (from physical damage anyway).

That's how I've done it with our other cars. Partial front on my truck, full front on my wife's SUV - no ceramic on both. You can apply a hardier "sealant" like collinite 845 and you can stretch that protection a few months if you use a QuickWax as a drying aid when you wash.

definitely something to think about, thanks

 

[lumper]

Think hard about the PPF. the best time to do it is before anything is on the car, and there are no blemishes. I honestly think you shpould skip the prep work for ceramic. Like Optronix, my car was spotless at delivery and the paint was very smooth and beautiful.

Also, when you do the first wash, it should not be touchless. you can do the foam cannon as a presoak, then do a normal wash with very little/no hand pressure and plenty of soap. Use small microfiber towels or a special terry/microfiber wash mit. If it's wet and soapy, then you will not be adding any scratches or blemishes by doing this, and you'll make sure all dirt is removed. Then proper drying with pre-moistened microfiber towels. Once dry yoyu can then get an idea if there's anything else left on the paint. If you feel anything, then claybar it yourself. Very easy with plenty of tutorials on you tube. Then wash again and it's ready to roll.

If you can save the ceramic prep fee, then maybe you can do PPF on the front bumper and hood. If you properly care for the car, the PPF could last you 5-8 years easy. The bumper has lots of tough spots to ppf so may not be super cheap, but that's the best bang for the buck. It's highly likely the car will not need any paint correction whatsoever. Just my 2 cents

Ok, thanks
I am going for tint first and to meet the guy and see his operation.
I will keep thinking about this along the way, maybe I will opt for the ppf for now and do the paint prep later, that would make sense over all, I think.
I appreciate the input and feedback.

 

[egxflash]

Ok, thanks
I am going for tint first and to meet the guy and see his operation.
I will keep thinking about this along the way, maybe I will opt for the ppf for now and do the paint prep later, that would make sense over all, I think.
I appreciate the input and feedback.

When they PPF, they should be prepping the surface so if you need any sort of correction, they should be doing it before you lay the PPF down - this really should be included in your quote.

On a new car, as has already been beaten to death, it should be very minor though.

 

[bvanlieu]

Consider you can ceramic coat it *at any time*. You can also PPF it at any time, but you may end up with some chips that the PPF goes over if you decide 6 months from now.

If $ is tight, I would not worry about coating the car now. JMHO.

If you are not comfortable with detail work, nothing wrong with paying someone, but I agree the full job should not be much more then 600...the prep work is wash/chemical decontam/1 stage polish correction. The car is not going to need multi-stage correction being new. I just did this myself this past weekend, broke it up over a few days.

Be careful with interior coatings. The better MFGs' have separate products for it, and some warn against doing it on new cars as plastics do gas out when new, along with non-smooth surfaces can be a problem as you can't simply remove it by polishing it out if something goes wrong.

Compared to the assault from the elements the exterior takes, interior cleaning is a walk in the park, no coatings required. To me that is the value of the coatings, just makes it easier to clean the bloody thing.

 

[lumper]

Consider you can ceramic coat it *at any time*. You can also PPF it at any time, but you may end up with some chips that the PPF goes over if you decide 6 months from now.

If $ is tight, I would not worry about coating the car now. JMHO.

If you are not comfortable with detail work, nothing wrong with paying someone, but I agree the full job should not be much more then 600...the prep work is wash/chemical decontam/1 stage polish correction. The car is not going to need multi-stage correction being new. I just did this myself this past weekend, broke it up over a few days.

Be careful with interior coatings. The better MFGs' have separate products for it, and some warn against doing it on new cars as plastics do gas out when new, along with non-smooth surfaces can be a problem as you can't simply remove it by polishing it out if something goes wrong.

Compared to the assault from the elements the exterior takes, interior cleaning is a walk in the park, no coatings required. To me that is the value of the coatings, just makes it easier to clean the bloody thing.

Thanks.
You know what would be helpful is if anyone has any recommendation for CT based detailers to do some of this work that they have used, trust and think are fair, so I can shop the guy I'm talking too.
I have planned from the beginning to learn how to do the prep work myself so I could dop it to my Z and eventually on this car, but I am just not ready yet, as far as applying ceramic well that I can handle, but the clear coat correction stuff makes me nervous.

 

[bvanlieu]

What has you nervous about may I ask?

You may not have the tools and I get that, but a basic DA machine, some pads, some product and a flashlight and you are in business. If you ever polished or waxed a car before, then you have the experience may need the proper product and a tad of patience.

The word 'correction' makes it sound oh so serious and technical.

Its not.

That isn't to disparage those that make a living at this: I greatly respect their craft and also that they deserve to be paid. I can't do PPF myself, I paid the man. Ceramic, my labor rate is far better then theirs

Any good 1 step polish will correct the minor surface scratches (Megs' Ulitmate or I think 205, Sonax 1 step, Carpro Essence...there are lots of them)

Applying ceramic to a light car is more of an issue for those that don't have a light hands (people tend to apply too much of any product: MOAR IS BETTA!). That had me being a bit careful to the white parts (black bumper/trim was cake).

As you said, you never have had PPF, I have never had Ceramic coating before and we both drove our cars just fine so this is 100% gravy at this point, its not going to change the car.

 

[lumper]

What has you nervous about may I ask?

You may not have the tools and I get that, but a basic DA machine, some pads, some product and a flashlight and you are in business. If you ever polished or waxed a car before, then you have the experience may need the proper product and a tad of patience.

The word 'correction' makes it sound oh so serious and technical.

Its not.

That isn't to disparage those that make a living at this: I greatly respect their craft and also that they deserve to be paid. I can't do PPF myself, I paid the man. Ceramic, my labor rate is far better then theirs

Any good 1 step polish will correct the minor surface scratches (Megs' Ulitmate or I think 205, Sonax 1 step, Carpro Essence...there are lots of them)

Applying ceramic to a light car is more of an issue for those that don't have a light hands (people tend to apply too much of any product: MOAR IS BETTA!). That had me being a bit careful to the white parts (black bumper/trim was cake).

As you said, you never have had PPF, I have never had Ceramic coating before and we both drove our cars just fine so this is 100% gravy at this point, its not going to change the car.

Well the part that makes me nervous is the polishing and working the polisher, I did some research I know it isn't an orbital polisher/buffer but rather has a different name which has to do with the way it spins, I forget how to articulate this but I'm sure you know what I mean, anyway I would have to buy one, plus never having done it, I wouldn't want to make a mistake or burn my clear coat etc..
My plan was to buy one all along with a few other things as you mentioned and try this on my 07 350Z, which needs it badly, but if I could learn on my Z I would then try it on the ITS.

But at the moment, we rent, haven't bought a house yet so I don't have a good work area or a garage, and I am not comfortable with doing it where I am even if I had the tools right now, so for me it is something I plan to buy and learn later on, I am just not ready yet and I have the car coming so.. that is what led me to looking at someone doing it for me this time.

 

[lumper]

So what does everyone recommend for Ceramic coat when you do it yourself? what do I buy? what brand, etc..
I have no clue about ceramic coating, but I do like the affect.
No matter what else I do, I do plan to ceramic coat the car.
I'm thinking I can go have the front ppf done, at least the bumper and then once I get it back, I'll do a good cleaning and then assess the paint and of prudent, OR I will pay them to prep the paint when they do the ppf, so when I leave, I can do the ceramic myself.
I will apply the coating myself to get to know the car a little better and so save some money while getting that shine and water repulsion.

 

[Integra23]

I wish I got the front part of my roof ppf. It's got 3 chips so far. The hood has a few scratches in the ppf from rocks. Once a week there's 2 to 3 dump trucks in the high speed lane just chucking rocks

 

[lumper]

I wish I got the front part of my roof ppf. It's got 3 chips so far. The hood has a few scratches in the ppf from rocks. Once a week there's 2 to 3 dump trucks in the high speed lan just chucking rocks

yeah, highway riding does that, I try to avoid it at all costs but sometimes you just can't.

 

[egxflash]

I wish I got the front part of my roof ppf. It's got 3 chips so far. The hood has a few scratches in the ppf from rocks. Once a week there's 2 to 3 dump trucks in the high speed lane just chucking rocks

My wife's SUV has a chip on the front part of the roof between the windshield and the sunroof. Crazy that rocks can get up that high.

It's our mom-mobile too so it's not like we're following anybody too closely or driving aggressively in it.

 

[bvanlieu]

So what does everyone recommend for Ceramic coat when you do it yourself? what do I buy? what brand, etc..
I have no clue about ceramic coating, but I do like the affect.
No matter what else I do, I do plan to ceramic coat the car.
I'm thinking I can go have the front ppf done, at least the bumper and then once I get it back, I'll do a good cleaning and then assess the paint and of prudent, OR I will pay them to prep the paint when they do the ppf, so when I leave, I can do the ceramic myself.
I will apply the coating myself to get to know the car a little better and so save some money while getting that shine and water repulsion.

There are a few good consumer products out there, I went with Carpro UK 3.0 (and DLUX for wheel, Skin for PPF: could use the UK on PPF but they did design Skin specifically for it, so I splurged).

Many detailer youtube channels, I would check out Pan the Organizer and Corey from Skys the Limit, easy to follow and down to earth folks. Pan is a bit more animated, both appear to have 2+ decades in the biz. I got some of my product from the Sky store, no relation to them.

DIY Detail also has a lot of videos along with their own line of products which of course they are pimping, but that doesn't mean they don't know what they are doing. I've used their red applicator pads, very handy to work with on contours vs. using a block and felt.

Warning: many a rabbit hole you can go down with all things youtube, so I would search for specific products only, or videos about specific steps and narrow it out.

DA => Dual Action vs. an old school orbital. You need quite the lug to screw up the paint with a single stage polish, but nothings impossible the two biggest mistakes are 1) applying pressure to the machine vs letting it glide and the pad do the work and 2) using a too aggressive pad/cut then needed. A single stage polish has very little cut, its a light pass with a polishing pad and you are done.

When you are ready, invest in a DA, some pads, some good product and don't skimp on the pads or towels. Prep work, taking your time, and cleaning things along the way separate the meticulous pros from the rank amateurs who are in a hurry.

 

[optronix]

As you said, you never have had PPF, I have never had Ceramic coating before and we both drove our cars just fine so this is 100% gravy at this point, its not going to change the car.

^this.

All of this aspect of buying a new car can be as overwhelming as you make it! I think, when all is said and done, there's no right or wrong way to do things. One of the most beautiful cars I've ever had was a black 1990 240SX that I bought with 140k miles, after it had been in an accident and repainted on the driver's side rear quarter. It had no PPF, it had rock chips all over the hood and bumper, and even a bit of that faded/bleached look on the urethane bumpers. I put my heart and soul into getting that thing looking as good as possible, and with no machine buffing at all and just old school carnauba wax, I had that thing turning heads everywhere I went.

These days there are so many options out there it can lead to straight up paralysis. Ultimately all that really matters is that the car looks good and can stay looking good for a long time. As long as you keep some sort of sealant on it and clean it occasionally, I don't think you can really go too wrong here. So just pick a route you think works for you, avoid overpaying, and just enjoy your car.

That said since you did ask for recommendations, my personal recommendation remains Larry Kosilla's AMMO NYC brand of products for mostly everything. His YouTube channel is also fantastic.

What Larry doesn't provide though is the interior "protectant/repellant"; for that I've tried GTechniq Smart Fabric v3. Full disclosure, I've somehow been too lazy to apply this stuff to my car yet . But I used it on my Boxster and it worked pretty great, and not too expensive. But as others have noted, there are several great products out there. I've had really good results with Chemical Guys products too and they tend to be a bit cheaper than some of the other "specialty" stuff out there.

As for PPF, personally I'm very glad I had it done, but do still struggle with the cost. It is outrageously expensive if you stop and think about it. For what I spent on PPF on the last 3 cars I've had, I could have bought another car. That does actually make me physically wince a little, thinking about it that way... and when it come down to cost vs worth, it really is hard to justify.

Finally, another thing to consider is tinting your windshield. If you have any interest in the heat repellant aspect of tint, or just would like to not be forced to reach for your sunglasses every time you drive on a sunny day, it's very much worth it. Personally I recommend no more than 70% on the windshield, and whatever the legal limit is in CT as long as it's at least 35 on the front glass and whatever you want elsewhere.