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Wheel Fitment Considerations: F vs R Offset (when does this become significant)?

Victorofhavoc

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That's the plan!

On the fence re: tires... thinking I will just roll the dice and hope 295 PS4S fit (might need to pull the pins and max camber). Wheels will be 19x10.5 et 48.

I know a 285 fits on a 45 offset without pulling the pins.
295/30? Holy rubber batman! You'll be having fun with the tpms light constantly... To match spec you'll need to run 27 psi front and 26 rear i believe. The factory tpms is NOT adjustable in the car settings or registry and it trips when below 29psi front and 28 psi rear.

IMHO, the "proper" high performance fit for this vehicle at a higher power output (tuned to 350whp)would be a 285/30/18, or potentially a 295/30/18 for both weight and lateral grip. The 285/30 is classic bmw sizing, so you have a million tire options. You can keep to the 19s, accept the slightly taller sidewall, and accept the tpms light will always be on. You could also raise pressure to 29psi and play the game of minor top offs to keep the light from tripping a lot. I would not recommend running it at stock pressures though, because at a 100y load rating they'll be much stiffer feeling and wear out the center tread much faster without maximizing your contact patch. At oem pressures, the 265 offers more grip. Also keep in mind the dt1 ps4s has a stiffer sidewall carcass than typical ps4s and is a bit narrower.

If you raise your stock size tire pressure to about 42/39, that's about the stiffness and wear/balance you'd feel from a 295/30/19 at oem pressure.

A 285 or 295/30 would look meaty regardless of wheel size! I would pull the pins and align it. They take no time and are an easy way to get to a more aggressive alignment with more front grip/balance. Worth the freeness!
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ABPDE5

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295/30? Holy rubber batman! You'll be having fun with the tpms light constantly... To match spec you'll need to run 27 psi front and 26 rear i believe. The factory tpms is NOT adjustable in the car settings or registry and it trips when below 29psi front and 28 psi rear.

IMHO, the "proper" high performance fit for this vehicle at a higher power output (tuned to 350whp)would be a 285/30/18, or potentially a 295/30/18 for both weight and lateral grip. The 285/30 is classic bmw sizing, so you have a million tire options. You can keep to the 19s, accept the slightly taller sidewall, and accept the tpms light will always be on. You could also raise pressure to 29psi and play the game of minor top offs to keep the light from tripping a lot. I would not recommend running it at stock pressures though, because at a 100y load rating they'll be much stiffer feeling and wear out the center tread much faster without maximizing your contact patch. At oem pressures, the 265 offers more grip. Also keep in mind the dt1 ps4s has a stiffer sidewall carcass than typical ps4s and is a bit narrower.

If you raise your stock size tire pressure to about 42/39, that's about the stiffness and wear/balance you'd feel from a 295/30/19 at oem pressure.

A 285 or 295/30 would look meaty regardless of wheel size! I would pull the pins and align it. They take no time and are an easy way to get to a more aggressive alignment with more front grip/balance. Worth the freeness!
That has got to be the biggest miss on this car... is it just a light, or do we have to deal with a chime, too?

Maybe I'll pick up one of those USB-C inflators just so I can add a bit here and there conveniently.

I wonder if you can correct for this using Hondata or AP? My understanding is the former will allow you to correct for speedo errors d/t change in circumference.
 

Victorofhavoc

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That has got to be the biggest miss on this car... is it just a light, or do we have to deal with a chime, too?

Maybe I'll pick up one of those USB-C inflators just so I can add a bit here and there conveniently.

I wonder if you can correct for this using Hondata or AP? My understanding is the former will allow you to correct for speedo errors d/t change in circumference.
No chime, but the right side display will light up every start and light up occasionally. It's most annoying when right on the edge and it trips as you start, then turns off 8 miles later, and again turns on after you've parked for 20 mins.

AP can't change it, and I haven't found a registry tool yet that can. Not sure about hondata since I don't have one.
 

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ABPDE5

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No chime, but the right side display will light up every start and light up occasionally. It's most annoying when right on the edge and it trips as you start, then turns off 8 miles later, and again turns on after you've parked for 20 mins.

AP can't change it, and I haven't found a registry tool yet that can. Not sure about hondata since I don't have one.
We need a BimmerCode equivalent 😭

I really want to kill the infotainment banners for HVAC / volume changes, etc. They're ugly; they don't match the GUI of AA or CP, and the information they provide is redundant.
 

Victorofhavoc

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We need a BimmerCode equivalent 😭

I really want to kill the infotainment banners for HVAC / volume changes, etc. They're ugly; they don't match the GUI of AA or CP, and the information they provide is redundant.
Agreed 100%

I've been trying to reach out to obd11 to talk about development for Honda (they're in the Toyota world now...), but I can't seem to find direct contacts... Just forum support 🙄

Bimmercode and vagcom/obd11 are both talking to the ecu registry that's on the same ecu platform as acura/Honda. I suspect the reason we don't have anything like this is because some manufacturers are coding the registry as they build the vehicle to enable and disable features via already present gateways (this is why bmw and Porsche have so many options you can spec), while other manufacturers just don't for whatever reason. Probably licensing costs if I had to guess since the other paths require them to have tools like Odin.
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