Speedbleeder Recommendations

[kavnthir]

It's about the time that I need to do my brake fluid flush.

I'm looking at getting speedbleeders for this but I can't seem to find the size of them anywhere.

Does anyone know the screw size or have just a recommendation for an exact speedbleeder?

2024 Integra A-spec

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[vovakovtun]

Not sure about A-spec. Maybe look for Civic Si. I am pretty sure it’s the same.
I just bled my brakes on Type S using a break bleed pump. It was pretty simple doing it yourself.

 

[UWU-mancer]

Used a motive brand one on my GTI. Just keep in mind these cheap Mickey Mouse plastic units won’t hold well after 2-3 years. So if you’re ok with re buying every 2-3 years I can recommend motive. If not, save up for one meant to see daily duty.

 

[Spart]

First of all, use a pressure bleeder rather than a vacuum bleeder. With a pressure bleeder, you can ensure that you are 100% bubble-free.

When you loosen a bleed screw and put a vacuum on it, you will pull fluid out but you will also pull a small amount of air by the threads. So in your waste hose, you will always see bubbles. Are those bubbles coming from the brake system or coming in around the threads? No way to know.

Shops like these vacuum systems because they're pretty universal, you just have to be able to attach them to the bleed screw nipples, which only come in so many sizes. Shops don't like pressure bleeders because if you work on a whole circus of makes and models, you need a whole circus of master cylinder adapters.

There are many kinds of pressure bleeders. I like my Motive power bleeder, but there are others that will work just as well.

Also, the best tip I can give you about working with a pressure bleeder is that when you're finished, either empty the pressure bleeder tank or tilt it so that the pickup straw is in air rather than fluid. Keep bleeding until all of the fluid is out of the pressure bleeder line and the level starts to come down in the master cylinder reservoir. You don't want to be removing the adapter for the MC reservoir when everything is full of fluid, it's a huge mess. Plus the MC reservoir is over-full if the fluid is all the way at the top anyway.

This is the adapter that I use, it works very well:

I have more info about this adapter (and how I modified it to work with a Motive power bleeder) here:

https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/adapter-for-motive-power-bleeder.58885/

 

[bvanlieu]

Motive system pays for itself on first bleeding. Buy extra hose as after several years the rubber hose will age and crack, and you don't want a 15psi blowout crack in the hose. Ask me how I know...

When done, flush it with denatured alcohol, it will air dry and will last decades if taken care of.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Or just don't fill the motive with fluid and use it for pressure only. I've been doing that for 12 years with the same unit, hoses, everything without issue. Getting that highly caustic stuff into any flexible line is a poor idea. It eats everything.

 

[bvanlieu]

For air only, I gather you are just using a bit in the master cylinder, pressurize, but have to constantly disconnect, re-fill, re-connect, and make sure you don't push too much out and go too low. I'm good with fluid in there, one time connect, disconnect. Balance of efficiency in methods

My hoses deteriorated after near a decade , not from the fluid, just age of a material as I always cleaned the unit after use, so it was dry. I do not want to give the impression it easily failed, just be aware if you keep it a long time as a DIY-er there is a smidge of maintenance to do.

 

[Spart]

For air only, I gather you are just using a bit in the master cylinder, pressurize, but have to constantly disconnect, re-fill, re-connect, and make sure you don't push too much out and go too low. I'm good with fluid in there, one time connect, disconnect. Balance of efficiency in methods

I would definitely not do this, defeats the whole point of the system IMO.

Our cars have a very small amount of fluid in the reservoir, particularly the fluid available to the clutch, and this would just be an absolute nightmare and take forever.

I bled a GM van the other day that held what seemed to be an entire quart and then some in the MC res. Took quite a while to evacuate all the old fluid out prior to bleeding! This method might work OK there.

On our cars? Not a chance, run it wet like it was designed to run.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

For air only, I gather you are just using a bit in the master cylinder, pressurize, but have to constantly disconnect, re-fill, re-connect, and make sure you don't push too much out and go too low. I'm good with fluid in there, one time connect, disconnect. Balance of efficiency in methods

My hoses deteriorated after near a decade , not from the fluid, just age of a material as I always cleaned the unit after use, so it was dry. I do not want to give the impression it easily failed, just be aware if you keep it a long time as a DIY-er there is a smidge of maintenance to do.

Yeah, I've also Jerry rigged air compressors for the same purpose. Motive is just nice for portable track side use.

Honestly the disconnect and fill only happens a couple times for typical bleeds unless you're full flushing... But I also bleed frequently for track use.

My unit is from 2012 and it's holding on for now, but I do know a few people who's have rotted out in that same time.

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