Oil comparaisons

[ElpacoSV]

Let me know what you think!

 

[SilverRocket]

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for me. I have 2 jugs waiting for the first oil change later this year. Amsoil migh be a little bit better, but not by enough to justiy the insane cost difference. With Canadian Tire cash back + Pennzoil mail in rebate, I got two jugs, about 9 Quarts for $50 CAD total (37 USD).

 

[bvanlieu]

when we see thumbnails like that we know its youtube click bait.

His info-mercial style is very annoying, takes away from the data and experiment he's trying to represent which is OK but folks in this industry will also poke holes in the methodology. My engineering is not in materials or oils, but I've listened to enough experts speak to know when to be a smidge skeptical and not go to absolutes of performance so soon

If you skip to the tables you see the add packages are all in the same ballpark, along with TBN. But even then data can be skewed.

Example:

You can't read into the motocraft has 'more impurities' when the table is 0 for everything, and it has 1 PPM for a *few* values. These are trace values and only one sample not a trend.

He also singles out the detergent packages in absolute numbers, but they are packages and they work together to hold up over time: some hold up better then other hence the forumula of what the engineers work on over years, so while having a good starting add pack is nice, its not the end all be all (Motorcraft oil is a solid product too)

For the geeks out there, running a UOA and getting trends on your engine and your product is interesting and can give you insight into how long the packages are being effective (to extend your drain interval perhaps).

Then again for the cost of the UOA, you can snag Valvoline on sale (not picking on them as they can be on sale more frequently, not a bad product at all) and simply replace all the add packages in 1/2 the oil drain interval.

The best thing you can do if concerned about using a 'best' oil for these longer factory drain intervals is simply take the cheapest SN rated oil and change it more often...only pushing to extremes do nuances in add packages show up in oil performance and even then, if they meet all the ratings before hand, they all stand up relatively well.

 

[SilverRocket]

when we see thumbnails like that we know its youtube click bait.

His info-mercial style is very annoying, takes away from the data and experiment he's trying to represent which is OK but folks in this industry will also poke holes in the methodology. My engineering is not in materials or oils, but I've listened to enough experts speak to know when to be a smidge skeptical and not go to absolutes of performance so soon

If you skip to the tables you see the add packages are all in the same ballpark, along with TBN. But even then data can be skewed.

Example:

You can't read into the motocraft has 'more impurities' when the table is 0 for everything, and it has 1 PPM for a *few* values. These are trace values and only one sample not a trend.

He also singles out the detergent packages in absolute numbers, but they are packages and they work together to hold up over time: some hold up better then other hence the forumula of what the engineers work on over years, so while having a good starting add pack is nice, its not the end all be all (Motorcraft oil is a solid product too)

For the geeks out there, running a UOA and getting trends on your engine and your product is interesting and can give you insight into how long the packages are being effective (to extend your drain interval perhaps).

Then again for the cost of the UOA, you can snag Valvoline on sale (not picking on them as they can be on sale more frequently, not a bad product at all) and simply replace all the add packages in 1/2 the oil drain interval.

The best thing you can do if concerned about using a 'best' oil for these longer factory drain intervals is simply take the cheapest SN rated oil and change it more often...only pushing to extremes do nuances in add packages show up in oil performance and even then, if they meet all the ratings before hand, they all stand up relatively well.

Project Farm is a balance of fun to watch while remaining relatively informative. His specialty is more power tools and standard products, oil is a bit more nuanced but he did it for his fan base who kept asking. If you want to geek out, there are other channels, like the motor oil geek, who's actually an expert in the matter.



Anyway, what sold me was the resistance to evaporation. It means less carbon build up on the DI system which in combination with a DI cleaning product every oil change should keep the engine fairly gunk free.

 

[NoelPR]

I don't care. I just pick the cheapest synthetic oil from a well established brand name that has a discount that day.
So far has worked fine with me.

PD: I like project farm videos but I just skip to the end to see the results.

 

[lumper]

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for me. I have 2 jugs waiting for the first oil change later this year. Amsoil migh be a little bit better, but not by enough to justiy the insane cost difference. With Canadian Tire cash back + Pennzoil mail in rebate, I got two jugs, about 9 Quarts for $50 CAD total (37 USD).

I've always been an Amsoil guy, AMSOIL synthetic in my bikes and cars and trucks, never any issues.

 

[jayy_swish]

Random info, Honda OEM oil is made by Philips 66. Even has the same bottle. Philips makes most if not all the different car manufacturers 0w-20 oil here in the US. Idemitsu use to be the pre fill out of the Japanese factories, not sure about now.