ITS Rear pads shot after 20k miles

[Victorofhavoc]

I just checked and my Rev match is already turned off.
It’s kind of disappointing going down a hill and there’s very little engine brake.

What do I need to tune the car?
Well that void my warranty?

thanks

It's much more complex than, "will it void my warranty". The short answer is yes... The long answer is it depends on your dealer and how well they want to work with you if something were to come up. Engine problems could easily be blamed on tune, but by law they have to prove it's the tune that did it. Still, there are cases of dealers simply refusing to work on tuned cars or saying they won't touch engine with warranty when tuned. There's also the ethical side of choosing a tuner that has 50 state certification or not, but that's a personal ethical thing not a technical limitation. And again, reducing Rev hang impacts the initial bit of deceleration when you let out the clutch. Once the clutch is totally out the throttle plate should be closed.

There's also the gearing to keep in mind. The gearing on this car is intentionally very short and the transmission is designed to have low drag/loss. You won't get as hard of engine braking on any modern car as you will much older cars with heavier flywheel, heavier trans oil, weightier gears, and taller gears.

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[Fish Hunter]

It's much more complex than, "will it void my warranty". The short answer is yes... The long answer is it depends on your dealer and how well they want to work with you if something were to come up. Engine problems could easily be blamed on tune, but by law they have to prove it's the tune that did it. Still, there are cases of dealers simply refusing to work on tuned cars or saying they won't touch engine with warranty when tuned. There's also the ethical side of choosing a tuner that has 50 state certification or not, but that's a personal ethical thing not a technical limitation. And again, reducing Rev hang impacts the initial bit of deceleration when you let out the clutch. Once the clutch is totally out the throttle plate should be closed.

There's also the gearing to keep in mind. The gearing on this car is intentionally very short and the transmission is designed to have low drag/loss. You won't get as hard of engine braking on any modern car as you will much older cars with heavier flywheel, heavier trans oil, weightier gears, and taller gears.

Understood thank you for the explanation.

once it is out of warranty, I would like to get the ITS tuned.

 

[ArmyofT]

I've had my ITS for almost exactly one year and just under 20,000 miles (it's just too fun NOT to drive it every chance I get!)

Took it in for an oil change and tire rotation and when inspecting the brakes the rear pads had just 2mm left. The fronts were fine at like 6mm. This seemed really odd to me and the service tech as well. The rear rotors also showed some discoloration so they recommended replacing both pads and rotors. I did about 5 minutes of digging and it seems like on
the Civic Type-R the stability control uses the rear brakes which causes faster wear on the pads, so I guess that's it?

Anyone else seeing significantly faster wear of rear pads?

Lastly, I'm not interested in spending the $850+ they quoted to replace the rotors, and will probably just replace the pads..... any aftermarket pad recommendations? And if the rotors do become an issue would it make sense to replace with something drilled/slotted?

Thanks!

My brother, I had the same issue.I had to change my breaks at 13,500 i thought this was very odd.I looked into this they are having some issues with that back break Components i argued with my dealership , and of course it was not warranted , so I had to pay for my brakes to be replaced .

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