ITS Rear pads shot after 20k miles

[Victorofhavoc]

I just checked and my Rev match is already turned off.
It’s kind of disappointing going down a hill and there’s very little engine brake.

What do I need to tune the car?
Well that void my warranty?

thanks

It's much more complex than, "will it void my warranty". The short answer is yes... The long answer is it depends on your dealer and how well they want to work with you if something were to come up. Engine problems could easily be blamed on tune, but by law they have to prove it's the tune that did it. Still, there are cases of dealers simply refusing to work on tuned cars or saying they won't touch engine with warranty when tuned. There's also the ethical side of choosing a tuner that has 50 state certification or not, but that's a personal ethical thing not a technical limitation. And again, reducing Rev hang impacts the initial bit of deceleration when you let out the clutch. Once the clutch is totally out the throttle plate should be closed.

There's also the gearing to keep in mind. The gearing on this car is intentionally very short and the transmission is designed to have low drag/loss. You won't get as hard of engine braking on any modern car as you will much older cars with heavier flywheel, heavier trans oil, weightier gears, and taller gears.

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[Fish Hunter]

It's much more complex than, "will it void my warranty". The short answer is yes... The long answer is it depends on your dealer and how well they want to work with you if something were to come up. Engine problems could easily be blamed on tune, but by law they have to prove it's the tune that did it. Still, there are cases of dealers simply refusing to work on tuned cars or saying they won't touch engine with warranty when tuned. There's also the ethical side of choosing a tuner that has 50 state certification or not, but that's a personal ethical thing not a technical limitation. And again, reducing Rev hang impacts the initial bit of deceleration when you let out the clutch. Once the clutch is totally out the throttle plate should be closed.

There's also the gearing to keep in mind. The gearing on this car is intentionally very short and the transmission is designed to have low drag/loss. You won't get as hard of engine braking on any modern car as you will much older cars with heavier flywheel, heavier trans oil, weightier gears, and taller gears.

Understood thank you for the explanation.

once it is out of warranty, I would like to get the ITS tuned.

 

[ArmyofT]

I've had my ITS for almost exactly one year and just under 20,000 miles (it's just too fun NOT to drive it every chance I get!)

Took it in for an oil change and tire rotation and when inspecting the brakes the rear pads had just 2mm left. The fronts were fine at like 6mm. This seemed really odd to me and the service tech as well. The rear rotors also showed some discoloration so they recommended replacing both pads and rotors. I did about 5 minutes of digging and it seems like on
the Civic Type-R the stability control uses the rear brakes which causes faster wear on the pads, so I guess that's it?

Anyone else seeing significantly faster wear of rear pads?

Lastly, I'm not interested in spending the $850+ they quoted to replace the rotors, and will probably just replace the pads..... any aftermarket pad recommendations? And if the rotors do become an issue would it make sense to replace with something drilled/slotted?

Thanks!

My brother, I had the same issue.I had to change my breaks at 13,500 i thought this was very odd.I looked into this they are having some issues with that back break Components i argued with my dealership , and of course it was not warranted , so I had to pay for my brakes to be replaced .

 

[GotSeoul?]

My brother, I had the same issue.I had to change my breaks at 13,500 i thought this was very odd.I looked into this they are having some issues with that back break Components i argued with my dealership , and of course it was not warranted , so I had to pay for my brakes to be replaced .

I just hit 13500 miles and my rear pads need replacement in a month or less.

Service guy asked me if I was racing in my ITS.....it's a daily driver never tracked. I'll have some fun with it but far from abuse.

They also tried to get me to do a brake line flush.....at 13.5k miles and 1.5 years old. My dealership is trash. Got there this morning at 7:30am for A17 maintenance and I didn't leave the lot until 10:00.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

I just hit 13500 miles and my rear pads need replacement in a month or less.

Service guy asked me if I was racing in my ITS.....it's a daily driver never tracked. I'll have some fun with it but far from abuse.

They also tried to get me to do a brake line flush.....at 13.5k miles and 1.5 years old. My dealership is trash. Got there this morning at 7:30am for A17 maintenance and I didn't leave the lot until 10:00.

Made it further thank my 8k miles with a few track weekends.

Do the flush. At least yourself... My fluid was heavily contaminated from factory and I've seen many of these cars come the same way now... If it's not so pale yellow that you can't tell if fluid is in the reservoir, it needs changing.

 

[UWU-mancer]

Made it further thank my 8k miles with a few track weekends.

Do the flush. At least yourself... My fluid was heavily contaminated from factory and I've seen many of these cars come the same way now... If it's not so pale yellow that you can't tell if fluid is in the reservoir, it needs changing.

Hmm good to know. Thnx for the info. I’ll flush at a year then come July 2026.

 

[elh0102]

I just checked and my Rev match is already turned off.
It’s kind of disappointing going down a hill and there’s very little engine brake.

What do I need to tune the car?
Well that void my warranty?

thanks

I don't quite understand the engine brake comment. If the car is in a significantly lower gear, engine braking will result, just a mechanical fact. But as mentioned, rotating mass with lighter parts will vary. Also, these cars have a relatively close-ratio gear set, so more shifting would be required to maintain noticeable engine braking. But brake pads are less expensive than clutches. Compression braking was removed from my driving habits years ago when I first got involved in the track. Gears are for accelerating; brakes are for stopping. Of course, on track it's all about time, which isn't a priority on the street, so using time coasting or engine braking is a personal option. As for rev overhang, I don't think that is a universal issue in the ITS; it's certainly not in mine. When I release the clutch, revs drop immediately. The OP's rear pad wear, given the mentioned driving habits, is a bit of a head scratcher. I push my car around pretty hard, and I sometimes leave VSC on. Honestly, it is rare for it to engage. Folks who complain of its frequent intrusion must have an underlying traction issue, maybe bad tires, over driving, etc.

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