Gohan408 - 2024 ITS Build Thread PRL / Advan / COBB

[UWU-mancer]

In the process of getting JST Performance E-tuning....so stay...tuned..

Plz share results and experience?

Havoc recommended them too. Thinking about keeping the Hondata ots tune but having jst update a few things in the tune for me. Such as tq reduction in lower gears

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[gohan408]

Will do! he said rev hang will be reduced by quite a bit. Im sold on that alone. Plus unlimited tuning for future modifications.

 

[gohan408]

Been driving on the new JST tune this week. First impressions: Noticible surge of power across the entire powerband. I can feel the Michelin PS4s working hard trying to put the power down. I was told the shared Datalogs from AccessPort came back looking great, so I’m just gonna put some miles on it now and enjoy it.

 

[gohan408]

Installed a Radium oil catch can. I know some folks thinks our modern engines don’t need it. Time will tell, imo K20C is still a relatively new motor so I rather have it than not.

Plus it matches my Radium Coolant Tank nicely

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Installed a Radium oil catch can. I know some folks thinks our modern engines don’t need it. Time will tell, imo K20C is still a relatively new motor so I rather have it than not.

Plus it matches my Radium Coolant Tank nicely

The radium one keeps the inline factory pcv so that's a good thing. The pcv systems are generally a wear item, so if it starts letting oil through, you've either generated enough g to suck up oil or it has failed and time to replace it. The factory separation should be good, so if you're just street driving, not overfilling oil, and not doing excessive boost, it should stay dry.

The other option is to do an oil pan with a baffle. That prevents the pcv from getting flooded during high G scenarios and also eliminates oil starve.

The inline can method is good though. Worst case it's just superfluous.

 

[gohan408]

The radium one keeps the inline factory pcv so that's a good thing. The pcv systems are generally a wear item, so if it starts letting oil through, you've either generated enough g to suck up oil or it has failed and time to replace it. The factory separation should be good, so if you're just street driving, not overfilling oil, and not doing excessive boost, it should stay dry.

The other option is to do an oil pan with a baffle. That prevents the pcv from getting flooded during high G scenarios and also eliminates oil starve.

The inline can method is good though. Worst case it's just superfluous.

Right, worst case it’s engine bling lol. I believe once you start increasing boost, or pushing the car on track, crankcase blow-by increases exponentially. The factory internal separator could get overwhelmed, and oily vapor gets pushed right past it through the PCV valve and straight into the intake manifold.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Right, worst case it’s engine bling lol. I believe once you start increasing boost, or pushing the car on track, crankcase blow-by increases exponentially. The factory internal separator could get overwhelmed, and oily vapor gets pushed right past it through the PCV valve and straight into the intake manifold.

Yeah, "under high G braking conditions." Boost makes it worse because the intake draws faster and creates a higher vacuum pressure when back on power, but it has to be significant of a change.

Let us know if you collect anything .

 

[UWU-mancer]

Yeah, "under high G braking conditions." Boost makes it worse because the intake draws faster and creates a higher vacuum pressure when back on power, but it has to be significant of a change.

Let us know if you collect anything .

Dude here has that same can. Full bolt on but stock dp and I think he’s on the phearable tune. He doesn’t track but does hit the canyons 1-2 times a month in the late spring and summer

he says it does fill up some

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Dude here has that same can. Full bolt on but stock dp and I think he’s on the phearable tune. He doesn’t track but does hit the canyons 1-2 times a month in the late spring and summer

he says it does fill up some

With oil or vapor? Nothing really wrong with vapor, that's the intent. If there's oil then that's a concern, and if you're seeing it then it's time for a baffled pan.

 

[UWU-mancer]

With oil or vapor? Nothing really wrong with vapor, that's the intent. If there's oil then that's a concern, and if you're seeing it then it's time for a baffled pan.

Typical nasty milkshake thing. The stuff that, when collected in a catch can, delays the inevitable intake valve cleaning by a good bit.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Typical nasty milkshake thing. The stuff that, when collected in a catch can, delays the inevitable intake valve cleaning by a good bit.

Oh, that's totally fine. That's supposed to slip by and burn. The catch can acts as a condensation point so instead of vapor that can burn it turns into the milkshake looking thing in the can. Doesn't harm anything to collect this way, but just makes an extra step during oil changes. If it's more than a 1/4 cup per 5k miles, you're either in a very humid environment or you might have a crankcase pressure problem to address.

It's only a problem if you're getting oily sludge. That turns into actual blow by and can be noticeable as oil residue in the intake leading into the turbo. You don't want that.

 

[UWU-mancer]

Oh, that's totally fine. That's supposed to slip by and burn. The catch can acts as a condensation point so instead of vapor that can burn it turns into the milkshake looking thing in the can. Doesn't harm anything to collect this way, but just makes an extra step during oil changes. If it's more than a 1/4 cup per 5k miles, you're either in a very humid environment or you might have a crankcase pressure problem to address.

It's only a problem if you're getting oily sludge. That turns into actual blow by and can be noticeable as oil residue in the intake leading into the turbo. You don't want that.

In winter in my neck of the woods. You’ll want to check the can everytime U pump gas. Condensation

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