Burples and pops GONE, Fixed.

[roost27]

My car is also stock. I lost my pops and bangs this morning. Stopped by the dealership on my way home from work. They scanned my car and I got the same code as you, EVAP system leak detected, very small. I had them clear the code and pops and bangs returned.

I am just wondering, did the problem ever return for you? Did any other issues ever come down the road? Or was this just a one off thing?

I have also had Evap code appear and lost pops and bangs I have 4k miles only has happened once. Doesn’t throw any check engine lights, I had to check my hondata after a google search and there it was evap code. Cleared it turned car on off and gone

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[MNTeggy]

The pops went away twice in the past week. There were no CELs but my scan tool said “catalyst system efficiency below threshold”. Cleared the code and the pops came back. I have a TSP downpipe so maybe that’s what’s causing it? I’ve had it installed since spring, so not sure why it’s happening now. It has been cold and snowy here. I don’t know if that’d contribute to it. Any ideas?

 

[dark_knight097]

thinking back, is this the situation where you pull the gas pump nozzle out after filling too quick, and some gas is caught in the neck? That's when they lost there pops and got check engine light. Ever since someone posted that, I've been filling on low speed and then leaving the nozzle inserted for 10 seconds after turning it off, to keep the valve further don in the filler neck open, so all gas drains in completely. just thinking out loud...

Funny enough, was looking through the manual and it states to wait about 5 seconds before removing the nozzle. You were on the right track with leaving the nozzle in.

 

[Victorofhavoc]

The pops went away twice in the past week. There were no CELs but my scan tool said “catalyst system efficiency below threshold”. Cleared the code and the pops came back. I have a TSP downpipe so maybe that’s what’s causing it? I’ve had it installed since spring, so not sure why it’s happening now. It has been cold and snowy here. I don’t know if that’d contribute to it. Any ideas?

Secondary O2 sensor is primarily for long term fuel trim and cat efficiency. P420 being thrown is fairly common on most cars when using a high flow cat without a tune or when the sensor is failing. Some aftermarket cats are efficient enough to not trip it, but often times people tear or jerk the wires on the sensor or knock the sensor enough to cause issues during replacement. If it's not reporting properly you won't notice for 150-500 miles until it trims. Every time you reset the code you're resetting the clock on the trim. I would log secondary O2 and see what it shows. If it's not consistent replace the sensor, and if it's consistent check with your tuner.

 

[MNTeggy]

Secondary O2 sensor is primarily for long term fuel trim and cat efficiency. P420 being thrown is fairly common on most cars when using a high flow cat without a tune or when the sensor is failing. Some aftermarket cats are efficient enough to not trip it, but often times people tear or jerk the wires on the sensor or knock the sensor enough to cause issues during replacement. If it's not reporting properly you won't notice for 150-500 miles until it trims. Every time you reset the code you're resetting the clock on the trim. I would log secondary O2 and see what it shows. If it's not consistent replace the sensor, and if it's consistent check with your tuner.

Thanks for the info! Will try logging O2 to see what it shows. If it’s not consistent, is it possible it’s the downpipe itself and not the sensor that’s bad?

 

[Victorofhavoc]

Thanks for the info! Will try logging O2 to see what it shows. If it’s not consistent, is it possible it’s the downpipe itself and not the sensor that’s bad?

No, if the data stops abruptly or suddenly goes way askew, it's 100% the sensor. Super common for people to twist them or tug on them just enough to where they don't read consistently but still "show up" to the ecu

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