Burples and pops GONE, Fixed.

[ITSDAD]

I only cleared the code but haven’t started it back up yet. About to shortly and then drive it though. I’d like to avoid disconnecting the battery if possible. That’s what I felt led to all this anyway.

Question - why is it to clear code and then disconnect battery in that order? And is it true to always remove the negative cable first? Is there something about the length of time while disconnected that something happens? I guess I don’t want to reset my ecu since I’ve flashed the tune onto it, but how do you reset the ecu?

D-Rob did confirm that a dirty MAF would not give me my particular code of p0420.

Curious, do you happen to just have the tune flashed directly to your ecu without a hondata flashpro?
Wouldnt you need the flashpro to go back to stock?

Just trying to figure this tuning situation out, still need to send mine out to unlock and wondering if i need to grab the flashpro in the meantime.

It doesnt seem like disconnecting the battery works like it used to, I tried disconnecting and also pulling the ECU fuse when I initially got the CEL and it did nothing for me.

 

[bpebler]

Curious, do you happen to just have the tune flashed directly to your ecu without a hondata flashpro?
Wouldnt you need the flashpro to go back to stock?

Just trying to figure this tuning situation out, still need to send mine out to unlock and wondering if i need to grab the flashpro in the meantime.

It doesnt seem like disconnecting the battery works like it used to, I tried disconnecting and also pulling the ECU fuse when I initially got the CEL and it did nothing for me.

Mine is all done after ECU unlock and Hondata FlashPro. To my understanding, that’s the only way to tune this platform currently.

 

[bpebler]

Update that clearing the code has worked for me so far.

 

[slo_its]

Clearing code worked for me as well. Did not need to disconnect battery. Mine was related to stored code from when I forgot to plug in the sensor after removing intake.

 

[koatic]

Question - why is it to clear code and then disconnect battery in that order? And is it true to always remove the negative cable first? Is there something about the length of time while disconnected that something happens? I guess I don’t want to reset my ecu since I’ve flashed the tune onto it, but how do you reset the ecu?

It is only recommended to disconnect the ground first because that connects to the chassis. if you are trying to disconnect the positive first, your rachet has a potential to accidently ground by touching the chassis while loosening the positive which would cause a short.
disconnecting the battery should not affect any tune flashed to the ECU's eprom.. if tunes were stored in the ECU's volatile memory, we would have a lot of bricked cars when batteries die.
Reason I suggest clear the codes and then reset is after extended battery disconnect (enough time for all capacitors to discharge) The ECU goes through a new learning phase and system checks. Thus, you get a prompt on the dash "system initializing continue to drive normal"
this seemed to fix the issue for me the second time after I cleared the codes and it still was not "acting" normal.

 

[bpebler]

It is only recommended to disconnect the ground first because that connects to the chassis. if you are trying to disconnect the positive first, your rachet has a potential to accidently ground by touching the chassis while loosening the positive which would cause a short.
disconnecting the battery should not affect any tune flashed to the ECU's eprom.. if tunes were stored in the ECU's volatile memory, we would have a lot of bricked cars when batteries die.
Reason I suggest clear the codes and then reset is after extended battery disconnect (enough time for all capacitors to discharge) The ECU goes through a new learning phase and system checks. Thus, you get a prompt on the dash "system initializing continue to drive normal"
this seemed to fix the issue for me the second time after I cleared the codes and it still was not "acting" normal.

Thanks for the explanation! I got the turbo installed today but I will check the code reader again to see if there’s any background codes. So far all is well with exhaust sounds and no CEL’s.

 

[koatic]

I got the turbo installed today

What Turbo did you upgrade too? increase/decrease in lag/spool? guess with d-rob tune you are able to up the boost some and not just dependent on MAF? With all that extra airflow (HVI and such are you going to upgrade to a race MAF?
Do tell.. maybe start a new thread as I believe this will be a nice topic?

 

[bpebler]

What Turbo did you upgrade too? increase/decrease in lag/spool? guess with d-rob tune you are able to up the boost some and not just dependent on MAF? With all that extra airflow (HVI and such are you going to upgrade to a race MAF?
Do tell.. maybe start a new thread as I believe this will be a nice topic?

27won Kuro! It’s supposed to have no turbo lag and begin spool at 2k rpm’s and give a gradual boost to help retain more traction that some other the higher power turbo that give you all the power at once and still start around 3k rpm’s.

The base tune feels slow as heck until the revisions come after data logging. The TSP tune I had was faster than I am currently with the base turbo tune to make sure all is functioning properly before going back and forth doing the e-calibration style tuning.

I don’t think a race MAF is available for FL5 or DE5 yet? At least not that I’ve seen. I don’t believe they’re cross compatible with the FK8 actually. But I’ll double check for sure. A build thread would be nice. I need to make some time for it I have all these videos that I’m supposed to edit and put on my YouTube but haven’t done a single one yet. Just not enough hours in the day!

 

[MidwestDE5]

Let me start by saying my type S is completely stock with 1100 miles. I took it out for a few short drives last weekend enjoying all the pops and bangs on the way. Sunday afternoon I take it out for a short run. Once it gets to temp I flip to sport+ and no pops and bangs. All exhaust notes sound muted more like a sport mode or less. No check engine light or operating issues of any kind. Having already read this thread I went on Amazon and ordered a $20 OBD scan tool. Today I ran a scan and got “EVAP Svstem Leak
Detected （very small leak)”. Cleared code and headed out on a drive. Once I was up to temp I flipped to sport+ and immediately the pops and bangs are back.

 

[Quinn Regis]

Interesting! pops and bangs on my car reduced significantly of late. I noticed a strong exhaust smell, which immediately thought was an emissions problem. Similar issue on a Fiesta ST I had. I will use my scan tool. Thanks!