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For the emblems easiest instructions will be to use the black emblem install instructions

4 ticks is operating temperature which is around 200°F + or - 10°F. If it’s not increasing that is because the cooling system is doings its job correctly lol. You won’t see another tick I believe it’s when you’re at or above 220°. Thermostat fully opens at 194°

Using 91 octane is fine both stock and tuned off the shelf options. Unless you get a custom tune for 93 but that would make no sense in CA lol since there is none. You can also mix about 1.5 gallons of E85 to get you to 93 octane which would be cheaper than using 100 octane

You might have a pending code that is intermittent. Honda’s/Acura’s have 3 DTC status, sometimes 4, that most standard readers cannot read. Pending, Active, Permanent, Stored. Pending meaning it is happening but has not met the code’s criteria to flag (may or may not turn in CEL.. usually...

A little late to provide the info (just got to work), here is the manual for the tailgate both interior and exterior for anyone that needs it in the future

Wet the area, if the scratches/swirls disappear when wet it’s totally fixable. If it’s still there well then it’s a little deeper and would need actual paint to correct it

Nothing a little compound and polish can’t buff out

Your Christmas’s tree of lights is because of your check engine light. Did you have the ignition on while the MAF was disconnected.. if so that was the issue. Clear the DTC should be fine.

$1160 ?.. each

Here's the A-Spec non-tech version.

Not a full proof way of doing things but you can try running the test with the head unit, believe it tests the AC unit as well for codes. Run the self test. If none are present on the head unit I’d recommend getting yourself a good code reader to read codes before tearing stuff up. It will at...

What scanner do you have because for something like that you would need a better scanner than say a simple check engine light code reader. You need a reader that can all the modules. Sounds like it may be an intermittent issue

I prefer using the Mahle version of the Honda oil filter vs. the honeywell/fram (just a personal preference) 15400-RTA-003

So you’ll need to either pierce the wire or back probe the injector which ever is easiest for you. You’ll have battery voltage with the key is on which is normal, during cranking there should be a slight drop in voltage cause the starter is engaging. So you should be 9v+ at the injectors when...

I didn’t have an example on my phone unfortunately, but I did find a waveform image on google that not only shows it but explains the waveform. You’ll see the battery voltage, the drop in voltage as the injector’s pulse time, the magnetic voltage spike that is created to begin the activation of...

I’d prefer you to see with an oscilloscope, but try double check with a multimeter at each injector while cranking the engine to see what voltage it is actually getting. I’ve seen a similar situation in a Lancer where yes it lit the noid light, but dimly. It had a dying ground driver in the ECU...

It will do it for a number of reasons like if the PCM puts the car is in limp mode, your car tripped a DTC and then ruled it was no longer an issue (turns off on its own but with a good scanner will still show a “stored” code), when you disconnect and replace the battery it will do this (just...

Curious .. how did you get to the conclusion your injectors are not firing

A spec is M12x1.5 if I remember correct, ITS is M14x1.5