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Anyone know how the pedal dance affects the Hondata traction control? Will it be disabled in diagnostic mode like the stock TC, or will it still function? Also, does Hondata have actual Launch Control? I haven't tried dumping it yet to see, but will be on track next week.

This plus being cheaper plus no wait for coating is why I went unfinished. I also wonder how long it will stay black without some sort of protection in front of it. When I pulled the stock intercooler it was already pretty beat up with only 500 miles on it.

I think there is a TEP ITS with a black PRL on the forum if you search around. (no stencil)

I know you guys are kidding, but didn't the FK8 Eventuri make some solid #s on the dyno? Doubt it will be as substantial since the new OEM intake seems pretty unrestrictive to 400whp. It's all CF, so it's going to be over priced, that's a given. And don't forget, $1500 for the intake and...

Thanks, was able to add a few more using some PIDs I found on the Civic forums. Sadly still nothing that could show clear indications of timing pull from knock. At least I can monitor IATs and Coolant Temp directly.

Same idea and install process, slightly different software. So it's odd because Hondata can display engine coolant temp, when I switch to Torque it's listed as one of the sensors supported but if I go through the live data it shows nothing is being communicated. Same thing as when I use a normal...

So I figured out the issue, I needed to clear all connections to the Flash Pro first, then connect immediately with Torque and was able to read data. Sadly, it didn't provide much more information than my $10 BT adapter. It's still useful, you can display AFR and timing advance and a few other...

Not trying to display it directly through head unit OS, trying to display it via Android Auto (so my phone is hosting it). I was able to get Torque Pro to connect to an OBDII BT connector then display gauges onscreen using Performance Monitor. The issue is that the BT connector doesn't receive...

Is that why I haven't been getting any beeping??? Ha, will re-enable. Also being on PST, resetting the clock sucks.

Finally flashed D-Rob's TSP 1 Tune! Wow, what a difference. Feels good to finally put the agony of all that time installing mods to good use! Definitely feel the difference over stock and the Hondata tune. Now to see if I can somehow get the Hondata live sensor data to display on screen using...

I was asking the same question a few weeks ago and couldn't get a solid answer, I was surprised how "cheap" the replacement was and assumed there would be a large labor cost associated with reprogramming, etc. I hope it shows up for you soon, as others have said, this has literally happened to...

I think adding the in tank pump has always been "optional" with their kits. It isn't needed when keeping power under 500whp so most folks probably don't need it. Plus it seems to get pretty mixed reviews. That said, might hit the limit sooner if running straight E85, but given all the downsides...

Congrats! I finally got mine jailbroken and have the Hondata 91 loaded. Looking into Phearable or IMW, I have the TSP DP so I can leave the secondary 02 enabled. Does the Phearable tune support Multitune or will it shortly?

Yeah, I took one look at that plastic tray and said screw this, will do that next time when I swap out the RMM... I have a hanger remover which makes life easier, but I think most folks just unbolt it instead, then you can deal with it off the car.

I used Anti-Seize on mine, I don't think it's required but figured it wouldn't hurt. As a note, I didn't use 7, I only used 2. I replaced the 2 OEM studs with TI, reused the 2 bolts, and the 3 studs on the other side of the DP are replaced with bolts with the new DP. It probably doesn't hurt...

Are you trying to fit an Alpine R2-W8D4 in there? Keep us posted, would love to do the same, but it appears a tad too deep from your photos.

Yes, that's the one I have.

If you are doing the front pipe yourself, do the RMM at the same time, it's right there and it's "only 2 bolts." Going to put mine in (PRL) when I do the front pipe. Technically, you can do it with the FP in place, but it's way easier to access without it there. See my other post on the FP...

Hahahaha, but it's so easy though!! Videos say only takes 15 minutes!!! I still need to put in that one heat shield bolt under the intake tube, trying to meditate first...

Yup, mine is PRL as well and was the reason I didn't do it! Knew I could get old one out because you only need to unbolt from the rear. It's getting in to hold the nuts on the replacement that worried me. How much of the rear plastic tray did you have to drop to access the nuts?