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Victorofhavoc

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Are you running stock boost?

I still think there is a case for catch cans on this platform even if you aren't pulling high G's, if you are tuned.
Why do you say that?

What do you consider high boost? Currently it's under 24 psi... But the issue here isn't misfire under load, it's misfiring at idle.

I'm not seeing any smoke under any conditions, no oil burn, and last time I checked plugs were clean. I don't see any evidence of blowby or surge so far. I suspect with aftermarket intakes the pcv function vacuum would be altered (just like on the VW platform with the TIP) and that might cause some pcv surge.
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Why do you say that?

What do you consider high boost? Currently it's under 24 psi... But the issue here isn't misfire under load, it's misfiring at idle.

I'm not seeing any smoke under any conditions, no oil burn, and last time I checked plugs were clean. I don't see any evidence of blowby or surge so far. I suspect with aftermarket intakes the pcv function vacuum would be altered (just like on the VW platform with the TIP) and that might cause some pcv surge.
That makes sense. What sucks is the lack of balance shafts. Sometimes things feel odd at idle due to the lack of them and everything’s perfectly fine :/

I imagine diagnosis has been a pain as a result
 

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Why do you say that?

What do you consider high boost? Currently it's under 24 psi... But the issue here isn't misfire under load, it's misfiring at idle.

I'm not seeing any smoke under any conditions, no oil burn, and last time I checked plugs were clean. I don't see any evidence of blowby or surge so far. I suspect with aftermarket intakes the pcv function vacuum would be altered (just like on the VW platform with the TIP) and that might cause some pcv surge.
Oh right. Sorry what I meant by "if it's tuned/higher boost" wasn't to say that those are the only conditions under which misfire occurs, but rather that factory PCV's are designed for an expected boost window above which they can leak and potentially lead to fouling, which can lead to a rough idle.

That all said, if your plugs and intake ports are looking clean then that's obviously not it.


What motor oil are you running? Could you be experiencing low-speed detonation, which can be influenced by motor oil selection?
 

Victorofhavoc

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That makes sense. What sucks is the lack of balance shafts. Sometimes things feel odd at idle due to the lack of them and everything’s perfectly fine :/

I imagine diagnosis has been a pain as a result
I haven't done too much besides dig through logs to try and diagnose. There's just not too much to glean from the data unfortunately. I'll see what happens with fresh plugs.

Oh right. Sorry what I meant by "if it's tuned/higher boost" wasn't to say that those are the only conditions under which misfire occurs, but rather that factory PCV's are designed for an expected boost window above which they can leak and potentially lead to fouling, which can lead to a rough idle.

That all said, if your plugs and intake ports are looking clean then that's obviously not it.


What motor oil are you running? Could you be experiencing low-speed detonation, which can be influenced by motor oil selection?
Just the dealer swill 🤣. I have them change it ever 6 months. I tested the exiting factory fill and virgin dealer oil. The factory fill was tremendously better oil overall. The dealer swill isn't terrible, but it's middle shelf stuff. I'll probably move to 40w amsoil euro in spring. It's the most similar to the factory fill in the higher weight and I know that oil can run 325F without breaking down.
 

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I haven't done too much besides dig through logs to try and diagnose. There's just not too much to glean from the data unfortunately. I'll see what happens with fresh plugs.



Just the dealer swill 🤣. I have them change it ever 6 months. I tested the exiting factory fill and virgin dealer oil. The factory fill was tremendously better oil overall. The dealer swill isn't terrible, but it's middle shelf stuff. I'll probably move to 40w amsoil euro in spring. It's the most similar to the factory fill in the higher weight and I know that oil can run 325F without breaking down.
Amsoil euro is an interesting choice. I kicked the idea around but settled for signature series instead. Went 5w30 tho
 

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ashmostro

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I had some Motul Specific BMW-LL01FE (0W-30) leftover so that's what I'm using and will continue to do so using FCPeuro's lifetime replacement. Ends up being the same price as Mobil1 ESP but with much more stringent requirements for valvetrain and timing chains.
 

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I had some Motul Specific BMW-LL01FE (0W-30) leftover so that's what I'm using and will continue to do so using FCPeuro's lifetime replacement. Ends up being the same price as Mobil1 ESP but with much more stringent requirements for valvetrain and timing chains.
Solid choice. Any of the German oil specs are great choices as long as Hondas api requirements are respected
 

Victorofhavoc

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Easy peasy. My last car had to use vw508 certified oil…. I think I had like two or three choices :/
The funny thing was the amsoil euro didn't meet that spec initially, but in recent years they became officially listed.

I just generally like the euro spec variety because it has higher moly, cr, and zn content for lubrication. The former two are more expensive additives, which explains the oil's higher price point. Given the factory fill was insanely higher moly and cr content than the dealer stuff, I'm leaning towards the euro formula.

I like the idea of using fcp euro as well! That's a great life hack. If they had appropriate Bosch icon wipers as well, I'd be all on it.
 

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Victorofhavoc

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I'm doing the same with the trans fluid using Redline MTL!
That's a great idea. I might go redline mt90. That's what I used in my Z to great success on their sensitive carbon synchros. That 3-2 grind occasionally rears it's head on track once things get really toasty in this car.
 
 





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