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2023 Integra Eibach Lowering Springs + rear camber kit installed
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vicembn
Member
- Thread starter
- #17
if you scroll up and look at “JC-RH” profile he has a really detailed post about what spacers he ran for perfect fitment. I went with aftermarket wheels if you want to see my new post. As for needing longer studs that would only be necessary if you go with a small slip on spacer like a 10mm, but for example if you use a 25mm spacer the wheel will bolt on to the studs on the spacer
BKK Jack
Senior Member
Did the Eibach springs come with at least adequate instructions? Eibach has "instructions" on their website, but they are only 2 pages. Page 1 tells you you will likely kill yourself and your car will assplode, if you try to DIY and aren't a rocket surgeon, and page 2 only tells you to trim the bump stops, which I think at least one person has said is unnecessary. So, no help at all.
I've watched the AHC Garage video, and am relatively confident I can do this myself. I have access to a lift, so that will make it much easier. The most important bits of information I don't know are the torque values for all the fasteners. There are no instructions listed for the camber arms.
I've watched the AHC Garage video, and am relatively confident I can do this myself. I have access to a lift, so that will make it much easier. The most important bits of information I don't know are the torque values for all the fasteners. There are no instructions listed for the camber arms.
submitaweasel
Senior Member
Does it give a reason why to trim bump stops? Bump stops exist to protect the dampers.
BKK Jack
Senior Member
It does not. I'm pretty sure someone who has done them here said trimming them isn't necessary. The guys at AHC garage trimmed them on the video I watched.
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vicembn
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- #21
Zero Instructions came in the box with the springs. Besides recommending to trim the bump stops, which I did. I actually installed these springs myself at home with the help of a friend. I relied on the AHC Garage video and also some videos on spring installs from the 2022 civic si. I bought a Strut spring compressor to ensure safety and do the job “right”, which I’ll paste the link. For Torque specs, I found a PDF on specs for a 2022 civic si and I just used the same for my Integra. Rear camber arms were the most pain (driver side) because it’s so crammed. I have 2 torque wrenches, one being fairly small, on the driver side wasn’t able to torque one of the main inner bolts so I got it as tight as possible with an offset wrench and also a ratchet wrench . No direct instruction videos so I just tried doing everything correctly.
(Spring Compression Tool)
8MILELAKE Macpherson Strut Spring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP2CDJU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
JC-RH
Senior Member
The system will continue to work as expected. Except the inherent CHANCE that the OEM shocks will prematurely wear due to using a lowering spring.
travismorg
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I couldn't disagree more. I love how the factory offset looks on these cars (and most cars for that matter).
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Acreen
Member
I also tackled the lowering springs and rear control arms with the help of a family member. Just wanna give a few tips and expectations coming from someone who doesn’t have a whole lot of mechanical experience:
- Expect this entire job to take 8 hours ish give or take on the floor with no experience, assuming you’re installing those rear upr control arms.
- For the front springs you can get away with just unbolting the strut, sway bar link, and prying down on the lower control arm to get it out, you don’t have to touch the lower ball joint. Other forums from the civic side state to be cautious about doing that in case you pop out an axle but I pried on it and it was all good no issues. Also, strut can go in same way with the help of a jack. Additionally, biggest takeaway from the front is that to make sure the car is in the air on both sides and that you shouldn’t have to absolutely force anything in with impact and hammers, did this with the strut bolt when trying to put it back together and ended up messing up the bolt threads. The strut has a specific seating position that if you twist it around you should feel it “seat” into position. I would recommend just using a paint marker and putting it back exactly how it was which is how I found out it sits in a specific way.
-For the rear springs, piece of cake. Just unbolt the lower control arm at the knuckle and the sway bar link and you can slide it in and out no problem.
- The control arms in the rear were probably the biggest pain in the ass, just like others have stated. Passenger side was somewhat doable but the drivers side has fuel tank hoses in the way which halved your already limited space. I’m telling you right now, if you don’t have offset wrenches, this job will be impossible so make sure you have those. Soemthing that made it a bit easier was having long needle nose pliers to get the bolt back in and ziptieing the fuel hoses out of your way for some more room.
- Also I personally greased down damn near everything after hearing about some of the noise issues people were having and I greased the areas where the new springs touched the rubber pads, bolts a bit to also help me get them in, and so far have not had any noise issues.
-Ride quality definitely is a bit harsher, something I totally overlooked which was dumb of me but to consider when your daily driving it.
Overall install was a bit tough than I thought it was gonna be for a Japanese car but was glad I got some experience doing it and just figured I would hop on here and give my two sense. Also I am running 18x8.5 aodhan aff7’s with a 30 offset and no rubbing or anything. Wheels clear nicely, and the fitment is damn near spot on. If I remember, I’ll try to attach some pictures of how the car sits.
- Expect this entire job to take 8 hours ish give or take on the floor with no experience, assuming you’re installing those rear upr control arms.
- For the front springs you can get away with just unbolting the strut, sway bar link, and prying down on the lower control arm to get it out, you don’t have to touch the lower ball joint. Other forums from the civic side state to be cautious about doing that in case you pop out an axle but I pried on it and it was all good no issues. Also, strut can go in same way with the help of a jack. Additionally, biggest takeaway from the front is that to make sure the car is in the air on both sides and that you shouldn’t have to absolutely force anything in with impact and hammers, did this with the strut bolt when trying to put it back together and ended up messing up the bolt threads. The strut has a specific seating position that if you twist it around you should feel it “seat” into position. I would recommend just using a paint marker and putting it back exactly how it was which is how I found out it sits in a specific way.
-For the rear springs, piece of cake. Just unbolt the lower control arm at the knuckle and the sway bar link and you can slide it in and out no problem.
- The control arms in the rear were probably the biggest pain in the ass, just like others have stated. Passenger side was somewhat doable but the drivers side has fuel tank hoses in the way which halved your already limited space. I’m telling you right now, if you don’t have offset wrenches, this job will be impossible so make sure you have those. Soemthing that made it a bit easier was having long needle nose pliers to get the bolt back in and ziptieing the fuel hoses out of your way for some more room.
- Also I personally greased down damn near everything after hearing about some of the noise issues people were having and I greased the areas where the new springs touched the rubber pads, bolts a bit to also help me get them in, and so far have not had any noise issues.
-Ride quality definitely is a bit harsher, something I totally overlooked which was dumb of me but to consider when your daily driving it.
Overall install was a bit tough than I thought it was gonna be for a Japanese car but was glad I got some experience doing it and just figured I would hop on here and give my two sense. Also I am running 18x8.5 aodhan aff7’s with a 30 offset and no rubbing or anything. Wheels clear nicely, and the fitment is damn near spot on. If I remember, I’ll try to attach some pictures of how the car sits.
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Ryker
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-Hello!
-I'm new to the forum and also had the Eibach Sportline springs for the 10th gen civic si installed on my 2023 integra aspec. I was just curious if you are experiencing any creaking now that you have had the springs installed for about a month now? I see you mentioned no creaking after install and I had the same but then mine started creaking only in the front basically within a week from install.
-I didn't do them myself, I took them to a JDM car shop near me to get them installed, front springs started creaking, took it back and they mentioned some possible concern with rubbing/binding issues.
-They took pictures of the issue which I have attached below. They said that maybe the spring rates for the springs aren't sufficient for the integra which I guess is a possibility since there is a decent weight difference between the si and the integra, but they applied some white lithium grease where the tophat meets, retorqued everything, and the creaking went away entirely. Then 2 weeks later the creaking resurfaced.
-I am a full time college student, so I don't have the time to take apart my suspension, but if you are still not having any creaking issues this far out from the install, Id be willing to put some effort into solving my issue. If anyone has any idea as to what my issue may be, please don't hesitate to let me know.
-Also, I was also considering the aff7's with the silver machine finish and would love to see how your setup is looking!
-Thank you!
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Acreen
Member
I don’t know what eibach springs you bought because mine were not red. The eibach lowering springs for the Integra that I got were black and I double checked the part # a million times to be sure. You said they were meant for the 10th gen so I presume that there really shouldn’t be any issues here if at all. I’m not an engineer so idk maybe the springs do have a different spring rate or whatever but I personally just would’ve not taken any chances with buying 10th gen parts for the 11th gen unless the manufacturer specifically states that is compatible or if the part #’s match. Also consider that I only have a 1inch drop and maybe pushing it to 2 inches with some the springs some companies offer could just push the struts too much to the point where creaking is inevitable, not saying that’s the case but something to consider. In terms of any creaking or binding noises, I personally was kind of worried about this and took precaution as I didn’t want to do that job twice so one thing that I greased liberally was the bottom and top rubber mounts which the springs seat into. Was this overkill? Most definitely but I didn’t want to take any chances. Now in terms of any different noise from me, I would hear the occasionally creak when I would get in the car at first but that went away, and besides that the only thing I hear is when I reverse out of my driveway and I clear the curb at an angle I can sometimes hear an audible creak from the front strut but I don’t take this too seriously as overall the struts are technically now always in more “tense” and compressed state then were meant to be so I just take it as a symptom of a lowered car
. Also no creaking or anything while driving or going over bumps. Also posted a picture below of how the car sits and the fitment with 30 offset wheels.
. Also no creaking or anything while driving or going over bumps. Also posted a picture below of how the car sits and the fitment with 30 offset wheels.
Irishmykl
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What wheels are those? The fit is perfect.
Acreen
Member
The wheels I’m running are aodhan aff7’s 18x18.5 with the +30 offset and the fitment is luckily spot on. For the tires I went with the same size as stock as the wheels are only half an inch wider so oe tire size fits nicely.
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