PRL Front Strut requiring battery disconnect

[SlippyFist]

I was thinking about getting the PRL front strut, and i took a peak at the instructions and the first step they have is disconnecting the negative battery terminal for a few minutes to release any built up discharge or whatever.

is this really necessary? it honestly doesn't seem so. i dont really want to reset all of my electronics and stuff if it isn't truly necessary.

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[akoza]

If you do have to disconnect it, it's not that bad. You just go for a quick drive, power cycle the car once, and redo your HUD settings.

 

[SlippyFist]

understood. i'll do it if it's necessary, it just doesn't seem so.

honestly PRL's instructions are not great, they are vague sometimes (just got the expansion tank on a few days ago). for the strut, the first instruction is to disconnect the negative terminal- and it never tells you when to reconnect it. it has you disconnect it, then install the strut, and then that's it- so i'm not even sure if you're supposed to reconnect it before or after installing the strut lol

 

[slowcountry]

So all of their installs (and most companies) instruct you to do that for any install.

But, actually, on the front strut install the wiring harness for the battery may not fit under the strut bar. What you may have to do is splice the negative and positive connections from the wiring harness and route them around the battery.

If you don't have the billet battery tie down, you may be able to fit the wiring harness under the front strut.

Here is a photo:

Hope this helps! Highly recommend their front & rear tower struts.

Side note - if you're tuned, quickest way to reset all of the dashboard lights after battery disconnect is to just reflash the tune real quick.

 

[SlippyFist]

So all of their installs (and most companies) instruct you to do that for any install.

But, actually, on the front strut install the wiring harness for the battery may not fit under the strut bar. What you may have to do is splice the negative and positive connections from the wiring harness and route them around the battery.

If you don't have the billet battery tie down, you may be able to fit the wiring harness under the front strut.

man that sounds like a pain. i don't have the battery tie down (looks like you have the black one in your pic) so i'm hoping the harness fits without having to splice and shit. i'm not invested enough to do all that.

no tune either.

 

[slowcountry]

I feel ya - just take a peek at your current harness for the positive and negative terminal and compare to pic. You just use an exacto to cut the sheath and then reroute the wires.

Here's a slightly different angle

You probably wouldn't need to split it without the battery tie down.

The rear tower strut requires cutting the trunk liner.... sounds awful, but again it's really not bad at all

 

[SlippyFist]

yeah i saw the rear strut requires cutting the trunk liner and i'm not good for that. i don't want to permanently modify the car in any way since i won't be keeping it in the long run.

honestly im not gonna cut the wiring sheath either. if i cant get the wires to run underneath of it then i'll sell it and get a different one.

 

[slowcountry]

The 27won front strut seems slimmer. Also has an optional master cylinder brace

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